Mantonite
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Posts posted by Mantonite
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Done so far:
Fuel Filter
O2 Sensor
Plugs (Platinum)
Plug Wires
Air Filter
So why do I have more power at part throttle than full? Is it too rich/lean when floored? Any ideas on what to check? I'm a little stumped here :-\
Thanks in advance for all the replies. You guys have helped a ton so far!
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Swapped out the spark plug wires and it got "back to normal." Musta hurt one somehow when swapping the plugs.
BUT... I'm starting a new thread: "More Power At Part Throttle than Floored"
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Did them one at a time so I doubt that I swapped a wire. Checked the wires and they looked okay. The only thing that is different is the dern plugs.
I'll check for looseness on the wires and the plugs themselves, but I think I'll try the NGKs.
We shall see...
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Well, I thought spark plugs were spark plugs so I swapped out the worn NGKs in the Loyale with some Bosch Platinums. Driving into work today she ran WORSE! I checked the gap when I put them in and they are right around .040 which I believe is correct for the EA82. What the heck? Could this have actually made it worse?
I can hear the question now: define worse. It chugs under acceleration (just got rid of that with the fuel filter/O2 sensor change) and I had to downshift on a hill I usually don't have to.
Could changing to plats actually cause it to run worse? Do I need to find me some NGKs? Help!!! :-\
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Solid axles (in general) are stronger overall than an independent suspension. That is why you see solid rear axles on a vast majority of trucks. That's also why the HMMWV (Humvee) can only tow 4200# versus 10,000# or so with my truck.
As for the brakes, surge brakes are the easiest way to get 'er done. One example:
http://www.masterhitch.com/hitchAcc.asp?prodID=10
First hit on google... there probably is much more info elsewhere. Better on-road than off - but not too many people go off roading with their trailers. An electric brake system is possible, but way too much work for this.
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Take a look at this thread:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41383
The offer for the spreadsheet is good for you too. Let me know if you want it, and how to get it to you.
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Does anyone have any tips or measurements or anything to get a proper tongue weight and balance? I'm sure I can do the math/geometry/etc required to make it a good reliable trailer... but I always like short cuts... so let's hear what you've got.
I have an excel spreadsheet that'll do just that. You'll need component weights, CGs, and some measurements.
Now, how the heck do I get it to you???
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Thanks to everyone for the posts and help. I'm sure I'll be starting a new thread for the next issue.
But for now, I have a fully functional soobie
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So I flushed the WHOLE system and it seems to have "fixed the glitch." No foam in the overflow tank.
BUT, when I had the rad cap off to bleed the system, I had tiny bubbles. Could this be the last bit of air in the system, or is it definately a head gasket? Even if it is the gasket, I'm gonna run her until it's real bad.
Guess I should borrow a cylinder pressure gauge eh?
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Huh... never woulda thunk of running with the hose on it. Seems that the water would be too cold for the hot block. I have ice cold well water... think that would make a difference?
Either way, thanks for the tips. I'll be trying them out tonight!
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Thanks for the reply.
I forgot to mention that I didn't have milky/missing oil. So it really doesn't point to a HG.
How does one drain the engine coolant anyway?
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So I got my freebie up and running like a champ, but there is one problem. I have foaming coolant. I did put some radiator flush (detergent style) in not too long ago, but have since drained/flushed the radiator (but not the engine). I did have a bad rad cap, but have since replaced it. This is allowing the foam to get out the overflow tank.
Could the flush still be in the system causing the foam? Am I looking at a head gasket issue? Help!
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Be careful putting the CG directly above the wheels... any weight in the back will give you a negative tongue weight. Not very good for towing, and really bad when it's time to unhook the trailer. That would be one helluvan uppercut!
And yes, the wheels are the pivot point. The trailing arm just moves the CG forward a bit.
Lemme know how it goes!
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The rule of thumb on trailers (that I know of) is to shoot for a 10% tongue weight when fully loaded. If you could get the (estimated) weights of everything you could determine where the axle should go to match the "rule."
Just an idea...
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NEW DEVELOPMENT
When I left work I took off the rad cap to top it off and much to my suprise the radiator was still pressurized even though it was bone cold. I bought a new cap and it doesn't seem to be leaking right now.
Could this possibly be the solution? The cooling system was getting overpressurized and pushing coolant out any way it could? I sure hope so.
I'll post with more next time I can drive it (likely Sunday).
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It is above the pump centerline, and is a slip fit into the water pump with an o-ring seal.
How can I check it? Follow disassembly procedures and just replace the o-ring? Hopefully it'll be a visible leak on the way home so I can diagnose in the garage before I head out of town (in my truck).
As far as the color, it's hard to tell. There is oil everywhere on the engine so there is really no way to tell. There is no visible stream out of the weep hole; it's just wet all over the top of the pump... maybe that points to it being the metal tube. Hmmm...
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Took a peek between runs at work and the top of the water pump is wet, near the weep hole. Guess it's time for a pump, unless anyone can think of another potential leak point.
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The leak seems to be higher than the water pump, but I'll check it out.
BTW - I forgot to mention that the timing belt was dry - no coolant on it.
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UPDATE:
So while I should have been sleeping, or doing any one of many of my honey-dos I decided to dig a little deeper. A lot of good that did...
Took off the timing cover on the drivers side to see what I could see... nothing. Topped her off and ran her (idling)... no leak. So it appears that it's only when running.
BTW, the leak is near the cam. Does that help??? Anyone?
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I have my freebie running fairly well, but after work today I noticed a puddle. It was coolant so I topped her off and headed home. She ran nice and cool (got her for free b/c she overheated: replaced thermostat and away we go), BUT I left a drip, drip, drip trail into the garage.
Upon further investigation, it appears that it is leaking out of the timing belt cover/head area on the drivers side. It is "up high"; near the valve cover gasket area. Any clues on what this could be??? I plan on taking off the cover when I have time (have to go out of town tomorrow) but want input as to what I should be looking for.
Any ideas???
(first time posting picture... hope this works)
Edit - Thanks for the site... it has helped a TON so far!!! - End Edit
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By any chance does it have an automatic transmission?
Nope... she's a manual. I'm not going to replace gaskets quite yet... I'll see how bad it really is. If I do replace it, I will probably pull the engine and freshen the whole thing... doing the head gasket and finding that the issue is in the intake manifold gasket is VERY frustrating, you know?
Thanks for the help so far. I'll keep y'all updated... if you really care.
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Wheel bearings are not a simple task,
10-4 on that hoss. Figured out what that took and realized it wasn't that bad. Re-packed what I could from the outside and called it good.
What was bad was turning the calipers back in. Needlenose pliars broke, promptly putting a cut in the "dust boot." I put that in quotes because it was holding back fluid! Was being the key word. So it's off to the parts store again tomorrow to order a rebuild kit (forget paying $75+ each for reman!).
After that, we'll do an inspect on the rear brakes and, assuming the're okay, drive the hell outta it. Think the head gasket is going bad though... wifey saw white smoke when I accelerated. How big of a task is that?
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Update: Took out the T-stat and she drove home just fine. The front brakes are gone, but I have my wifey picking up some now, along with wheel bearings. It made a funny noise when turning left at high speed, so I assume that's what I need. I'll be there if I have to do the rotors anyway... right?
Looks like I'm in the Subaru world now
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Hey all. I just wanted to post and say hi (if for no other reason than to get rid of the "you've never posted" message).
Scanning the newspaper for a fuel-efficient car (to replace or supplement my 11 mpg truck) saw a 1994 Subaru Loyale - Needs water pump and brakes, Best Offer. Saw it, a little rust, but mostly recoverable, front brakes are GONE (metal to metal = new rotors), and he says it overheats, but I ran it for about 15 min and it didn't. There are a few oil leaks, but gaskets are cheap right?
Anyway, he offered it to me for free and the price was right so I took it. I'm going to take the t-stat out today and limp it to my house (alternate driving through the busy area and, if it overheats, tow through the country).
I'm sure I'll be consulting the forum on tips to get her up and running. For now, I guess my only question is what she's worth in running condition. Should I get her running and sell her off, or keep her? Seems like it may be a great car here in the snowy white north.
I'll stop rambling. Thanks for the site and hope I can give a bit back someday.
Why more power at part throttle than floored?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
ECT?
Forgot to mention that I checked the timing and it was spot on. That was with the green connectors together... but if I remember correctly there were two weird things: I remember only one wire to the green connector (looked like space for two). Also, the disty looked like it was turned all the way one way (not sure which). Any of those point to anything?
I may try the air cleaner thing, but I live on a dirt road, so may just swap it out.
Maybe the PCV is the issue. We shall see...