todda1

I really don't know what the difference would be.... maybe someone with better knowlege on this could chime in.... I'm used to mechanical fuel injection (Bosch CIS). I have it hooked directly to the coil now, and it's shutting the car down. It works fine when it's warmer outside or the car is warm. Thanks for the polarity tip. I was under the hood and pulled the t/b boot. I'm assuming the injector is under the bulbous thing that I thought was for the venturi purpose. I see the thin black harness and see that it goes to a 2 wire plug as you describe. One wire is red/ black and the other is red/ white. This has to be it... I'll try to do the procedure today and post results. Thanks, Todd

No, it won't bring the idle down, but my understanding is that the injector pulses are not as high as the reading from the coil. This is a Prestige APS-996. I've used some other brands such as Bulldog, and this seems to be the best yet. Great range, too. I used a APS-995 on the VW, and the only difference was the remote. http://www.audiovox.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=12870&langId=-1 not you, but the one who said it wasn't a carb, but a t/b, lol. -Todd

It needs a tach signal to let it know that the car is running. This needs to be programed after instalation. Yes, it will shut the car down if it seems to be over-reving. It will also try to restart the car, if the rpms are too low.... it won't register the car as running. Maybe 2500-2800 rpms(?); not absolutely sure. On my last car, (a VW Rabbit), I wired a solenoid to pull on the gas pedal after the car started. This would bring down the rpms when in choke mode. I could do the same, but the tech line I called just said to try the injector wiring.... seems much easier. I'll use the solenoid as plan "B". -Todd

Thanks for making me feel like an a$$, lol. I'll go out in a few. Thanks

This car will have a fuel rail, even if there's only one injector? I remember my old Ford had an injector firing directly down the carbs throat. I haven't looked that this car too extensively. Any clue what color is negative? Thanks

My SPFI car has an injector that I need to locate. I'm not sure I'm looking at the correct part in the carb.... there isn't anything that looks like a typical injector, here. If you're standing in front of the car, looking into the bay, the part I'm looking at is on the right side of the carb. It's rather large and blockish.... there are two (2) wires going into it. Is this the correct part? If so, what wire is negative (-)? This is a 1992 Loyale, and my remote starter is having issues due to the cold weather..... it thinks it's over-reving on a cold morning start. TIA, Todd

The Accord springs are a heavier gauge than the stockers.... the stock Subaru springs are 2.5" i/d. The stock springs have a slightly larger o/d. I'm sure the Eibach springs would work fine. -Todd P.S., What type of VWs are you into.... I'm an A1 chassis freak. I got the Subaru, because I needed a reliable car! Ironically enough, the Subaru left me stranded today.... I have no clue how to work on this thing.

not quite 2.5" i/d, but close. 2.375" i/d 13.875" overall length -Todd

Interested? -Todd

Well, I took off the Accord springs and installed a set from a wagon. The wagon springs are firm enough for what I need, but lost a lot of the clearance. So far I haven't had any rubbing issues, but I haven't put any weight in the trunk, either. Thanks for the help, people. -Todd P.S., the Accord LX springs are for sale if anyone is looking for a pair.

Hmmmm.... maybe I'll call back. They list a rear strut munting kit.... perhaps it includes the perches (part # SM5362 & SM5363)? -Todd

Good info... wish they were suggested from the begining, lol! Looks like there'll be a set of Accord springs in the classifieds in the near future. Thanks, Todd

I don't want to be getting used struts from the j/y and I called KYB to see if they were available. Apparently they don't make them.... I spoke with a rep who told me that they used to make them for Subauru (O.E supplier), but Subaru never gave them the rights to produce them with the adjustable perches for the aftermarket. When the time was up, and they were allowed to produce them, they never went into full production. They only offer a stock height perched model. Is it safe to assume that rear springs on wagons will be stiffer than the ones on sedans? I may just make a spacer to lift the spring on my existing struts. Thanks for the replies! -Todd

Allright guys, I appreciate the replies. The struts that I have are brand new, so that isn't the problem. What '85-'86 model came with the ea82? (sorry, I'm new at the Subaru thing). I see that one of your sigs lists a "GL Wagon"; would that be all of them, or will I physically need to be opening hoods to check? Maybe I'll look for a set of the adjustable rear struts and a good set of stock rear springs... I know for a fact that my old rear springs were shot. Thanks, Todd

what would these be off of, pray tell?? -Todd

When you get it pegged down what you plan to use for rear springs, please post back. I just did the Accord LX spring mod and it's incredibly bumpy! Someone mentioned cutting the springs down approx 2", but I don't see how that would change the spring rate or ride quality, if I'm cutting a dead coil. -Todd

I didn't cut anything.... I never read anything that said to. I was under the impression that this was a bolt on mod. I could actually use the extra lift, because the size tire that was on the Pugs (195/75/15) when I got them rubbed the fender-well a little when I went over a decent sized bump. How would cutting the spring, change the spring rate? -Todd

I sourced a set of 14" Pugs, so I also got front springs from a LX model Accord. This is the roughest ride I've ever experienced, either car or truck.... is this normal? The back now bounces (jars) no matter how slight the bump. This was the recomended "LX" springs, not the "LXi". TIA, Todd

I printed all 362 pages out! I saw the diagrams at the back, but there are many pages missing. I'll see what I can use when I get home. Thanks

hooziewhatsit, thanks... seems like the best that I've gotten so far. Do you know if they made any significant changes between 1989 and 1992? My car is EA82... correct? I also still need wiring diagrams. edrach, tried them... no dice. -Todd

I can't find any. I've searched Ebay, Google and Yahoo, and all I'm coming up with is either Chilton's or Haynes.... is this the best there is? What do you guys use and where do you get them? Who's the publisher? It's for a 1992 4wd Loyale sedan. TIA, Todd

Thanks guys... learning a lot here. Any idea what the difference is between the 2wd and the 4wd rear shocks and struts? I found a set of Monroe rears, but they only list the 2wd model Loyales, but if it's a XT Coupe, they fit both 2 & 4wd. -Todd

Samo, your wheel & tire size looks like what I want to achieve... body height is stock also? Soobmaster, is thatr a dish on your roof rack? Numbchucks, Honda Accord springs? Is there a decent shock/ strut that you guys recomend? I went to my local Pep Boys, and they told me "dealer only", for some reason. My car is a little soft & floats a little although I'm not sure if it's supposed to. I used to driving stiff suspensioned cars. What do you guys do to correct the speedometer(if anything at all)? -Todd

Great info and thanks for the link. Is there a tell tale way to tell the dreaded 390s? I'll definitely be looking for the alloys... they fit the car perfectly. Samo, could I get a profile shot of your car? What size tire do you run? Samo & Numbchucks, both of you seem to have gotten rid of all the wheel/ fender gap.... any clearance issues? Are you running standard shocks and struts? -Todd

Yeah, I'm looking for bolt on... re-drilling is out of the question. -Todd