todda1

Good to know about the little rod... when I unscrew this, will the trans drain? I actually found that Fram # by doing some Googling. I ordered it from Amazon.com for $2.83 and got some more stuff to qualify for the free shipping. Best price, otherwise was about $16 shipped. -Todd

I did indeed have ATF in the vacuum line. My local Napa doesn't list anything other than a trans kit; do you happen to have a part #? Thanks Everyone, -Todd

Sounds simple enough. I'll check it when it stops snowing. Thanks guys! -Todd

I there a way for the ATF to make it into the crank case on my '92 Loyale? I ask because my 3AT loses fluid and I top it off on occasion. Over the weekend I took a 120 mile trip and the trans was slipping badly when I got to the destination. The trans was topped off before I left and it was about 2.5 qts. low when I rechecked it, so I added more ATF. The car started (continuously) smoking badly out of the tailpipe... almost like a James Bond smokescreen. It settled down after about 5 minutes, but noticed it would do the same when taking off at a light, or when getting off, then back on the gas on the highway. After about 15 minutes, the smoke disappeared, altogether. I'm confused. I'd think they're 2 totally separate things; any ideas? -Todd

BTW, anybody know an easy way to get to 20* BTDC? The way the dizzy is mounted, doesn't allow enough rotation. I can only get to 15*. I imagine it's just fudging the rotor and timing marks on the flywheel, but any tips are appreciated. After this fiasco, I may just leave it alone. -Todd

Update.... the car is running and should have been done last night. Problem is that I'm an idiot. The d/s belt moved slightly, but I think it would have been ok. The real issue was that I was working from memory and I don't know this car too well. I was using #2 cylinder as #1 to find TDC. I was about 180* out. I was really frustrated, after taking the car apart 3 times after it still not starting. I finally decided to get the manual out and as soon as I looked at the firing order I realized my mistake.... I wanted to shoot myself! Wasted about 3.5 hours tonight and I skipped lunch today, too. -Todd

Thanks for the info; never knew that. You're telling me, lol. I have to double check everything. Thanks, -Todd

It sounds right, but it's a new starter, so that may be throwing me off. It sounds way different than the starter that it replaced. I pulled the dizzy out because the belts were thrown. Lined up that small dimple on the gear part, with the mark on the dizzy's body, then reinstalled. The rotor is pointing at #1. Maybe I screwed something up. It was snowing, I was cold and it was getting late. Thanks Again, Todd

99% sure.... Did the driver side, lined up the middle hash mark on the flywheel with pointer. Small hole on cam pulley is at 12:00, lining up with mark on inner cover. Rotate engine 1 turn clockwise, and did the same with the passenger side belt. Rotated the engine with #1 sparkplug out until airflow stopped, then matched 0* with the pointer. Pulled dizzy and lined rotor up with small dimple and mark on dizzy. Crank, crank, crank...... Thanks for the reply and reassurance.... I thought the valves were safe. I'll just have to take everything apart and verify my set up. Thanks! -Todd -Todd

The idler pulley seized on my EA82 Loyale and the belt jumped. I replaced the belts, idler, tensioners, etc, but It won't start. I'm definitely getting fuel and spark. Last time a belt jumped, I replaced what I needed, did the rotation thing and it started fine. Did I just get lucky the 1st time? It's too late and cold outside to do a compression check.... I'm clueless. -Todd

With the Impreza seats, do you guys sit lower, higher, the same? I like the "drill holes in existing track" method. I see me buying seats, then never breaking out the welder, lol. Thanks, Todd

That's a lot more than I wanted to spend, and I was hoping to find something in gray cloth to (somewhat) match what I already have. Any idea what years & models (if any) I should be looking for? -Todd

I did a bit of searching, but came up short. Basicly, I'm looking to replace the worn front seats in my '92 Loyale with some newer Subaru seats. Are there certain models I should be looking for that would be a direct swap? I think my local salvage yard has a newer (2000) Legacy. -Todd

This just happened to me Tuesday night. Heard a noise, but assumed it was a bad CV, because the boot was torn and the other axle was just replaced a couple months back. Left, front wheel came off @ 50mph and I watched it rolling down the highway next to me. Put it in 4wd, and drove the car into the nearest parking lot on the rotor. I was amazed how well the car drove, lol! All I could think of was it hitting a car and having a claim on my insurance. Luckily, I found it 300' down the road leaning against the guardrail.... brand new tire, too. No way I could locate the lugs, so I'm in need of 4 Pug lugnuts if anyone has any laying around. I'm currently driving around with 3 on each wheel. Looking at them, I can't tell if they're tapered or ball seat. Does anyone know; I tried going to Pep Boys, but didn't see anything that looked correct. -Todd

Seems like there's only a fixed option for me... I never mentioned that mine is a sedan. DaveT, is there a reason you didn't use the mounting points for the tow eyes? I'm not doubting that your's is strong (I think it's pure overkill!), it's just that I see most class 1 hitches utilizing these points. Most of the class 1s seem to be a straight piece of box steel, with plates for the mounting bolts, and another perpendicular piece of box steel for the receiver. I can't see this costing me more than $15 in materials + the cost of the ball, ball mount and pin. I think this is the route I'll go, if I don't buy my buddies pick-up truck. Thanks All, Todd

Thanks for the replies. I went to uhaul.com, but the fixed mount is $180; I guess if that's my only option, I'll bite. I wish they had a pic of it; I was considering welding one up with some box steel. Numbchux, could you please post a pic of your's? If it's verifiably strong, I guess I would consider a bumper mount. -Todd

I need/ want to pull a small trailer, but can't find a hitch for my car. Has anybody found one or made one? I don't want one that bolts to the bumper. It would be just for light duty trips from the home store, just a few sheets of plywood or something like that. Thanks, Todd

What do you suggest I do with this wire? Are you suggesting that this wire will cause a drain, if hooked to the battery? -Todd

Ok, correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems as if I'll connect: The single output post (on the new alternator) will go directly to the battery with new 4 gauge wire; a fusible link will be inline. The mystery white/ black wire will also be jumped to this post.... that's the only place to put it on the caddy alternator. The small white/ red will go to the dash. I linked to another thread that shows the rear of a GM alternator. It looks to be what I have. I'll just be running pigtails and male spades to jump into the Subaru's harness. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15457 Hopefully, I'll get to finish it next weekend. Thanks all, Todd

The purpose of the swap is more amperage. The stock 65 amper can't keep up with the stereo when the lights, wipers, etc are needed. I've watched the voltmeter drop well below 12v when the bass is hitting, and I've actually had my car shut off as a result. I believe the alternator that I pulled is good for 105 amps. There wasn't really anything involved so far other than building a tray to relocate the battery to the spare tire's area (due to the physical size of the new alternator) and simple mock up. The alternator needed to be clearanced to fit the mounting tab (as seen in other threads) and an extension arm for the adjustment arm was made from a leftover part from a garage door opener. I've verified the hood closed with the battery in the new home and the Caddy alternator installed.... I was't sure it would! I just need to get some longer belts, and some new 4 gauge cabling. I post some pics, when I get back to work on it. -Todd

anyone?

Hey folks, I'm in the midst of putting a Cadillac alternator on my 92 Loyale (with a/c) and have a question regarding the molded plug in the rear of the Subaru's alternator. It appears the smaller white/ red wire goes to the dash warning light, but I'm confused about the purpose of the larger black/ white wire. The wiring diagram I have, shows it it receiving power from the battery; it's got a fusible link inline. It's purpose is powering the fuel pump relay and the ignition coil. I put a meter to the wire in question, and it's definitely hot. If it's receiving power directly from the battery, do I need to hook it up to the Caddy alternator? Just for my understanding, if the wire's already hot, why is it hooked up to the alternator at all? Thanks, Todd

I was hoping to find a drop in replacement, but if I'll need to modify a different make, I guess that's it. A 90 amper may cut it.... I'm only running roughly 500 watts (max). I need to dig out the amp manuals and see what they draw at idle. Thanks, Todd

Is there a higher output alternator available for my 92 Loyale? The 65 amp unit can't keep up with the stereo and accesories. I watch the voltmeter and see it dropping below 12 volts and it's needed a jump after a high volume music session, on occasion. -Todd

Yes, it's hooked up to the negative side of the coil. I had it programed to the higher idle, but when the car was warm, it would re-engage the starter, because the tach signal was too low to be detected.