buru

Can the engine be lifted more than 2" so that it CAN clear the pickup tube?? Will the tranny mounts have to be unbolted too?

I'm replacing the oil pan gasket in my 92 loyale this weekend and wondering if I jack up the engine high enough, will the pan clear the pickup tube and come off?......since I know removing the tube is harder than crap. Also, do you all remove the bolts from the mount to the engine, or the mount to the cross-member? Does anything else have to be removed, such as the shifter linkage, to accomodate for jacking the engine up? Thanks

Picked up a turbo today off an 87 XT at the junkyard. Saw it, so I thought I would grab it. How do I tell if it's any good? It's a little rusty on the outside, but it spins freely. Also the car has a set of mag aluminum wheels on it, how much would be a reasonable price to pay for the set? Thanks

I've got a little problem with the shifter on my 92 Loyale. It's a 3 speed AT and shifts smoothly from park into R,N,D,1,2. But when I try to shift from drive into park I get quite a bit of resistance. Is this just a problem that can be fixed by adjustment and if so anyone know how to do that? Thanks

Been having the same problem with my loyale, except I'm getting code 34-egr solenoid. Some people have said this can be the culprit for the problem described in this thread, even if no code is showing. Just got three solenoids from the junkyard, we'll see if one fixes it.

Fairly new to the board, and I need all your all's soob expertise. Ok, so I got a 92 Loyale that's had code 34:banghead: since I got it a few weeks ago. Car runs really good except for being a little sluggish now and then till you hit about 35 mph. It's almost not even noticeable. But I'm one of those people that just has to fix it. So I've read about a thousand old threads on the EGR Valve and solenoid, and there seems to be a lot of conflicts on this issue. Has anyone ever fixed this problem by replacing the solenoid and/or valve? I didn't see anything about the problem being solved. So far I checked all the hoses for leaks, checked the connector to the solenoid (although I don't have a meter to test the solenoid), did the test on the valve (ok, and valve is clean), and removed the valve to check for buildup. The ports looked almost completely clean. The car only has 104,000 miles on it, and most everything on the engine is in emaculate shape, even still shiny in some places. So before I replace the solenoid and then the valve if need be, I wanted to know if anyone has had success if solving this problem. If so, I'm hitting the PAP this weekend to find a couple of s/noids and valves. Anybody have an extras if I can't find any? Thanks for the help!

Yeah those bolts can be tight too, had to use a big beaker on mine. Should be lots of fun with a rounded head Good luck

Best option would be to helicoil it or tap out for next biggest size....you could see if one bolt will hold it.....but it just depends on how ballsy you are and whether you want to have to tear into it again if it comes loose. I replaced my tensioners @ 100,000 miles cause they were pretty worn out, check yours good. Wouldn't worry about the belt brand since you already have them, they'll last awhile (although not as long as OEM).

You only have to pull the hub off and then remove the disc from that. The bearings are pressed into the knuckle. Just get the caliper and bracket bolts off, and remove the cast. nut, washer and spacer. May have to use a puller to get the hub off. There is a minimum spec thickness for the disc casted into the inside of it. If it's less than this, get new discs. If not, just have them turned (resurfaced) unless they are in perfect shape, which is unlikely. Most people suggest always turning rotors with new pads. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. The pads just last longer, the better shape the rotors are in.

I agree with what the others said. Also, you want to start the car and shift through all the gears when you refill and check the level.

I got a 92 Loyale and my oil pressure is the exact same. Running temp @4000 rpm, spec pressure should be about 35-45 I think, and @ 2000 rpm only 15-25. So since idle should be about 700-800 rpm on these engines, yeah your pressure is going to be around 10 or less. I had the same thoughts when I first got the loyale though. Like turbone said, your pump is probably not bad, but you can always double check it. Just pull off your pressure sending unit and pop on a gauge to get an accurate reading.

The pcv valve screws into the intake manifold, center rear of the engine, just below the carb. You can be sure by following the hoses attached to it (the hoses that go to the valve covers).

Thats one of the great things about this board, so you don't have to go somewhere to get it diagnosed . There's lots of people here who can help ya get it figured out, as long as you can put in the time and elbow grease. Tear into her!

thepartsbin.com has complete OEM gasket sets

Does the car actually get abnormally hot, or is the gauge just telling you that? I don't mean to sound rude, just troubleshooting. May be that the cooling sensor or gauge is faulty. If it is overheating, make sure the thermostat was installed right. Did you use an aftermarket brand, or a quality tstat? There is a world of difference in the quality of tstats. Double check hoses for blockages. Remove the radiator (very simple) and inspect it carefully. Any doubts, replace it, usually less than 100 bucks and can save your engine from costly damage.

Thanks for all the advice guys, you all are very helpful. I'm going to try and replace the valve cover gaskets and grommets first, and see how that does. Unfortunately, another small leak has started from the oil pump that I just put new seals in. I think I must not have got the mickey mouse gasket to seat properly when I reinstalled it. But it's a very small leak. So I think I'll just drive it awhile and then when I find the time, I'll replace the valve covers and pull the oil pump again. Then I'll try and tackle the oil pan gasket. Do you have to jack up the motor to get the pan off, or how do you'll do it? Thanks

So I'm new to the subaru family. I recently purchased a 1992 Loyale 2WD in above average condition with 104,000 k original. Girl was sick of it and timing belt broke in Walmart parking lot, so she dumped it for $250. I said ok . Now all you soob experts have been awesome so far, so I want your votes on what to do next. Last week I replaced the cam/crank seal(s), water pump, oil pump seals and o-rings, idler pulley, timing belts and tensioners, plugs. Started right up and runs smooth as silk (w/freezing A/C too). Seems to be a little ticking on the passenger side (cyl 1,3) with the screwdriver to ear test, but nothing hardly noticeable. But, since it was not running when I bought it, I didn't know if there was any other problems. So now I see it is leaking oil from around the valve covers and a couple of places where the cam housing meets the heads. The oil pan gasket leaks a little too, but I retighten all the bolts I could get to. Now when I say leaking oil, were talking about a couple of 1-2 inch spots on a piece of cardboard in 24 hr. So, the options I'm looking at are: 1) Pull the motor, put in new gaskets. Since I bought this just to drive and cut down on the petro guzzling use of my truck since the oil nazis are trying to f......... us, I'm not limited by time, only work space (I would be doing it in my machinist friends small shop) and the continual loss of gas $. 2) Drive the subaru for awhile, hope no more damage occurs, and grab one of the EA82's I saw at the salvage yard today (one was in an 84 GL 4WD wagon that had a great body and int. with surprisingly no parts taken yet) and rebuild it. Then swap engines. They wanted $150 for the engine. 3) Just drive it and let it leak. But I want the car to last as long as possible. So my question is what would all you experienced buru owners do? Sorry it's so much to read, but I really appreciate the help!

If you can't get it by one of these methods listed, get a buddy or someone to help hold something in the flywheel. The crank pulley bolt should be torqued to about 70 ftlb, so it can be tough to hold the flywheel and beaker the bolt at the same time. In some cases, four hands are better than two. Just be careful not to lever something off the point on the flywheel housing that aligns with the timing marks. It will break easy.

Try a small stick of C4, should work. No seriously though, I had one stuck and ended up drillng and setting 3 bolts, and then used a small, modified pulley puller. Worked good

I have a 92 Loyale and I just replaced that m.m. seal yesterday. Yeah, you need the one on the left in that picture you posted. Just happen to have the part # here on the receipt as well, Beck/Arnley 039-6320. Now that's the oil pump gasket/seal set which includes the shaft seal, round o-ring, and mickey mouse seal. Good luck getting it on. I had a hell of a time getting the m.m. seal to stay in the groove while I put the pump back in. Finally put two tiny dabs of grease on it to hold it. That's funny too, my m.m. seal was torn in the same place as yours.

If you have to keep putting water in, your losing it somewhere. You mentioned white smoke, and water in the oil, hmm. If your still seeing this, you might have cracked heads. If your overheating, and not losing coolant, a new thermostat is a good place to start.

Absolutely REPLACE the timing belts! If your idler disinegrated, no telling what damage you could have done to the belt(s). Not worth the chance for $30 extra. I just picked up a 92 loyale with 104,000 k original, for $250 last weekend , young girl was sick of it, and timing belt broke in walmart lot. Price she got quoted from subaru dealer was too high, so she dumped it! Anyways, replaced all the seals, tensioners, pumps and stuff while doing the belts. I also replaced the idler b/c it had significant side-to-side play in it compared to the new one, and that's with only 100,000. So I can definitely see it falling apart at 190,000. Don't know PCI, but I haven't been buying a lot of replacement parts. I'm sure it will last you awhile however, at least as long as the new timing belts. They recommend you change those every 60,000 or so.

Any suggestions on the best places to find replacement EA82 engine bolts (mainly the cam. sprocket bolts, as I mentioned in another thread, I snapped one off)? Ones of the same size and grade at the auto parts store are not quite the same.

I'm a frickin idiot. After posting to you last night on how to deal with your camshaft sprocket bolt, I found myself in the same position today. Was replacing seals, and when I put the sprocket back on, snapped the head off one of subaru's butter bolts . You really have to pay attention to the torque you use. I got the stud out pretty easy though. Just used an ultrasmall punch (about 1/16") to tap on it and unsrew it out of the hole. I was about to drill it out, but a machinist friend of mine reminded me that when you have a screw broke off like that, and it is not bottomed out in the hole (like the camshaft sprocket bolts), then there is no more force holding it tight (depending on the material type). So more than likely you can always unscrew it if you can use something small enough to get in there. Anyways, something you hope you never have to try, but thought it might be useful info.

I agree, get the heads off the bolts first and get the sprocket out of the way, then you can more than likely get the studs out by drilling and easyouting it. But using a hacksaw could be very difficult since the center of the sprocket is recessed. I would try using a dremel with a metal grinding blade, or even a normal grinder with a small grinding wheel on it. Should pop the head right off. Of course, if you get into the sprocket you'll have to replace it, but no biggie. Like Humble Nuto 53 said, start with a small drill bit, try easyouting it and if it doesn't work, move to a larger bit.