paulpicard
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Posts posted by paulpicard
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first find out why it won't install, it's not a tight fit, it should slide right in easily with zero effort. so it must be the wrong axle or corrosion or something else?
the axle should not be forced through. if it won't slide in normally then file the insides of the hub splines to smooth them out, get rid of rust, build up or grime. make sure none of the filing/dirt get into the bearings.
gg, the old one came out without a lot of grief - just the usual hammering. So I don't think there's a lot of corrosion. Thing is, it won't even get anywhere near the splined hub. It's a new (not reman) Cardone unit that I double-checked the part # on so I'm pretty sure it's the right part.
GD said: "When I do them, my technique is to leave everything on except the hub. I remove the axle nut, unbolt the hub from the disc, and drive the axle through - leaving the disc and brakes still attached to the knuckle" That's exactly what I did, except the outer hub bolts were so tight I had to repeatedly heat them (and tap "em with a hammer), and even then the 3rd bolt rounded off before it would loosen. I'm concerned with breaking one off at this point, thus my question about tapping the axle shaft in order to pull it through.
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I'm in the middle of replacing a front axle assy. on my 92 Loyale (non-turbo) I've done both sides on the old EA-81 I had a few years ago, and thanks to USMB and Ed Rach's procedure, I learned how to do 'em. This time it went smoothly as far as the removal process, but the new (not a reman) Cardone unit won't pass through the bearing bore at all, and when I tried removing the outer hub I succeeded in rounding off the 3rd bolt. So I can't get at the threaded end in order to pull it through with the axle nut. I notice, however, that there's a shallow hole machined into the end of the outer shaft. Has anyone ever threaded this in order to pull it through with a piece of ready-rod? Or am I stuck with somehow getting the outer hub off??
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Thanks, nipper. I think the wiper shaft might be the source, if those cowl drains simply go to the fender. Anyone else had a problem with that?
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Are you talking about the holes at either end of the cowel that empty out into the fenders?
Yes I am. The car does not have A/C, and the water is not a coolant leak.
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Thanks to both - the w/s was replaced this spring, so it might not have been sealed correctly. Nipper, I assume there ARE drain tubes connected to those holes at the cowl ends? Because the one on the driver's side next to the wiper pivot was obscured by mud and I only noticed it when I wiped the area clean.
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My 92 Loyale S/W has apparently developed a water leak that results in a half-cup of water (NOT coolant) spilling onto my left foot when I back out of the drive after a rainy or snowy night. Assuming a leak originating at the cowl, I see what appears to be drain holes punched into either corner of the cowl, but not sure if they are, or could the wiper pivot shaft be a source ? :-\ All suggestions as to what to look for are welcome and appreciated!
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At any rate there should be a restriction somewhere on the line from the driver's side valve cover. Either the line will neck down to 1/4" ID, or there will be an oddball T fitting with an orifice drilled into it.
Negative on that, GD. Unless there's a restriction in the valve cover nipple itself. The hose is constant diameter one piece to the T for the PCV valve. And that T has no restrictions either. I couldn't tell you if the right-turn oil burning occurs (I'm a 100 miles from any on-ramps
) but the car does use some oil - no leaks or blue smoke visible. Suggestions? Like make a plug and drill it out to the appropriate size? -
Update on "winter tuneup": While re & re-ing the PCV (screwed into the intake, not "pressed in" as Haynes says), I notced a plug wire literally fall off the dist. cap. Corroded all to hell. Plus rotor was worn at the tip. So, cap, rotor, and set of plug wires later, the car runs better. So much better at full throttle/4000 RPM+ I'm amazed. Before it would run up past 4000 but really didn't make that excercise worthwhile. Now the power continues to build up to 5000 - means I can now get past that loaded log truck without waiting for the 1 mile straight
Am I just imagining this or would the cap/rotor/plug wire change have that much effect? -
GD, I did the PCV replacement today. I did not see any evidence of the "vacuum breaker" small i.d. line as you mentioned, connected to the main hoses. Can you give me more info on it's location?
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The thing is, that the ps resevour is in the way. I know there are ways around this but it needs taken off anyways. The o ring is bad somewhere. Does anyone know what size o ring it takes on the bottom or side, or whever the darn thing leakes. But yes this and the cts sensor need cleaned up as well.
Ben
Just take it off, measure the o-ring, and run over to your local parts store for a new one. Or better still, go find a pre-packaged assortment of o-rings, like I did, and you'll most likely have a candidate in the collection for whatever you need to do.
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GD, thanks - now I understand the reason for all that plumbing, and I'll clean it out as suggested. Is the check valve itself serviceable, or is it considered a "consumable" part like V-8 PCVs?
GD, never mind - I have a new PCV arriving tomorrow, and I'll clean out the hoses and other bits then. Dude, the car started and idled "by the book" this AM, weather cool and raining. Clean those parts up!!
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GD, thanks - now I understand the reason for all that plumbing, and I'll clean it out as suggested. Is the check valve itself serviceable, or is it considered a "consumable" part like V-8 PCVs?
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OK, today, I removed the IAC unit, cleaned the valve body portion with brake cleaner, and cleaned the electrical connectors for it plus the temp. sensor. Upon re-assembly, the Soob started up and ran "by the book" Of course, the weather today didn't cooperate - it warmed up to 18C. So we'll see what happens when real weather returns!
I did find oily residue in the PVC hoses though, but since I have never been able to figure out Subaru's PVC system, I haven't serviced that item. Should I? And if so, what's involved? (On my old V-8 Dodges and Chevs it's simply a check valve in the rocker cover, but it seems to be much more complicated in the Soob) -
Thanks guys. I'm sort of leaning towards an intermittent electrical connection. The engine does use some oil, maybe a liter in 1500 klicks or so, but there is no gunk or blowby at the IAC location. I guess I'll just follow the wires and check ground connections, etc.
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Well, it's getting cold up here, and my '92 Loyale is reacting with the intermittent poor cold start symptoms again. I did the IAC service as suggested at this site last fall, and it worked fine all last winter, in fact, all summer as well. But now it's acting up again - just like a bad automatic choke. So my questions are: Do I clean and lube again? Or is it time to replace parts, and if so, what's available out there without going to the stealership? (BTW, the old wagon is about to turn 300,000 klicks so I'm still impressed with Subaru engineering!) :-\
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OK, the tire change affected my speedo and odometer readings by 5% or so, plus the last couple of runs to Penticton were done at slightly lower speeds, 3000 RPM cruise, instead of 3200. Voila! 30 MP (US)G. The new (taller) tires screwed up my numbers, and a leadfoot screwed up my mileage.
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Interesting comments - especially the last one by txacura. I did my EA-82 TBI oil pump last fall - replaced the M.M. o-ring (which was deformed and not seated properly) as well as some other mtce. The lash adjustor ticking is now more intermittent than it was, and only during warm-up - seems to go away for good once up to operating temps. But it's still annoying. Should I be concerned enough to address the symptoms, or not? (I do my own work, except for machine-shop stuff, so labour costs aren't a factor) I'm thinking of either running some cleaning agent (Seafoam) or replacing adjusters ($$$)
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make sure you aren't driving with the Ebrake on, err, i mean check for brakes dragging, calipers free moving....
Good point - I will check those items.
"How about the O2 sensor? Check your air filter anyways, maybe a mouse moved in. Car still warming up the operating temp like normal?"
Yes, warmup is normal, air filter and box are clean.
" Did this start right after the tire replacement. "
No, that was a couple months ago. They are taller than the old 185's, though, so I would have thought that might gain a bit of fuel economy.
"Maybe your driving habits have changed and you have not noticed. "
Could be - but I doubt it. I am pretty consious of the police tolerance around here, and I try pretty hard to stay in that 10% allowance they tend to give one. Which equates to cruising at 110 KMH in the 100 zones common around here.
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Threw all those darts at it last fall! And cured a few issues like temp. sensor, I.A.C. valve sticking, timing belts and tensioners, oil pump kit, cam oil seals, and it has run very well since, as promised by all you guys here!
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Interesting, but the car's performance hasn't varied - still runs strong, starts well, idles down to 700 or so when warm, temps are stable (about 2 needle widths above the cold line) so I don't think I got a load of bad gas. Leads me to another question, though - could a clogged fuel filter have this effect? I realized I haven't changed that. (Air filter is new in Sept.)
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Hi. Sometime over the last 2 tanks of gas, my mileage DID vary, dropped from a 30 mpg (7.5 liters/100km) to 22-24 mpg range. Nothing changed, 80% of my driving is fairly fast 2 lane at 70 mph (110 kmh), the rest is around our very small, 20mph town. 92 Loyale SPFI 5sp. 4wd wagon, new 175 all-seasons inflated to 32 psi. Car runs well, weather has been cool and dry, so where would I start looking?
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Thanks, John. Switched my old Dodge cruiser over to DOT5 a couple of years ago, rebuilt the Mopar aluminum m/c, and learned all about bench bleeding a master before installing.
Very good point for those of you doing a m/c for the first time. -
Yep, bolt pattern is the term I was trying to remember.
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Well, you can disable the clutch interlock by accessing the switch located at the top of the clutch pedal (similar to a brake light switch, connect both wires to each other and remove the switch, or just leave it there), then park it in neutral and APPLY THE PARK BRAKE! if you want to use the remote start. My 92 SPFI Loyale likes to have the throttle pumped once for cold start, yours may or may not.Getting at the switch and wiring is a p.i.t.a. - I removed the seat but that's because I'm an official O.F. with a bad back.:-\
More axle blues
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I think you're right, I can feel something loose in there. I intend to pull the hub and rotor assy. and go from there. According to Haynes I can unbolt the caliper, it's mounting bracket, and just pop the rotor off.