mikkl

Isn't that rattle annoying? My dealer finally fixed it by loosening the bolts on the dash and placing a length of vacuum hose between the dash and the windshield. This was before the bulletin came out explaining how to adjust the dash. I've had no rattles since. My 2005 Legacy Sedan goes out of warranty is 4000 miles and I was asking myself the same questions about what to look for. mikkl

I have a 2005 Legacy 2.5i sedan that just passed 30k. I am comfortable doing most maintenance on automobiles, but am new to owning Subarus. The dealer wants $550 for the 30k maintenace. Couple of quick questions. First, is there any advantage in having the dealer do the work? Second, does the brake fluid really require replacement? I have never had to do that on any other car... Third, are there recommended manual/instructions for performing the inspections and the like? Is Chilton's sufficient or should I look for Subaru manuals? If the Subaru, where could I find them? Advice and opinions are greatly appreciated, mikkl

Any more, I only use OEM filters. Why? Because of the Mitsi GT4. The OEM filters had an internal valve that set the system pressure. If you used a non-OEM filter, the system pressure would be too low and you would starve the camshafts of oil. Had a friend who trashed his motor this way, thinking he was saving a few bucks by using an aftermarket filter. This was the first time it was brought home to me that "fully meeting OEM specifications" does NOT mean fully engineered to work in the OEM application. I also recently compared my Toyota OEM filter to a Valvoline filter. The Toyota filter appears to have some sort of internal check valve that the Valvoline filter does not have. In short, I figure OEM oil filters cost me an added $40 or less per year per car. That is a whole lot less than an oil-related engine problem. Just my 2 cents. mikkl

Thanks for the info and the link. I have spent some time up there today and clearly need to spend a great deal more! Lot's of good reading there. Thanks again, mikkl

I rather suspect that. However, there seem to be a number of heavy-duty mechanics here who may actually have some experience looking inside engines after a few years and seeing what /really/ happens. Heck--I would be happy with a link to an official Subaru reference. I went browsing on their site and could find nothing. mikkl

OK folks, what engine oils do you recommend for normal driving in a 2005 legacy sedan with the manual transmission? My dealer is currently using Kendal GT-1 - an oil about which I know nothing. I grew up in a dedicated Penzoil family and that is my only real, long term experience, though I am now hearing comments about high paraffin levels. Experience and recommendations are appreciated, mikkl

I need to rotate my tires and would like to do the work myself. My problem is that I don't know a safe spot to put the jack stands once I lift the car with a floor jack. Does anyone have photos or recommendations on the best place to put them? Thanks, mikkl

Had the same problem in my 2005 Legacy. Two problems actually. One was a squeak at the A-pillars that we called the "two mice having sex" squeek. The second was a rattle against the windshield. Took the dealer about 10 days to really get it sorted out. We did two things. First, we placed a strip of adhesive-backed insulation foam between the dash and the A-pillars. Don't use the adhesive, you may want to pull them out later. Second, the dealer placed a length of rubber tubing between the dash and the windshield. I can't tell you what diameter he ended up using, but it really did the trick and is completely invisible. mikkl

This matches what my Subaru Service rep has told me here in the States. He services both and tells me that the VWs are always in the shop for the most annoying detail or another. And usually something new each time. mikkl

I was just starting in a parking lot and stopped the car when the lights came on. Read the manual and guessed fuel filler cap. Never did have a chance to test the cruise. According to the manual, the flashing cruise light means that the cruise is disabled--so I would expect my experience to have been the same as yours. I've not made it to the dealer yet. Life (and work) keeps getting in the way. Will report back when/if I get the code pulled (not certain how many times I can start the car before the codes are cleared) mikkl

I suspect that was the case with mine. Have you noticed that you need to lean on the cap a bit to get it to lock tightly? If I do not lean a bit, the cap ratchets in what feels like less than one-quarter of a turn, making me wonder if it is really sealing. mikkl

Need to see the dealer and have the code pulled, but previous posts indicates that the CEL and Cruise light I experienced is fairly typical. Sorry for wasting the electrons and server space. ==================================================== Started the car yesterday evening and had two dash lights come up. The first was a solid CEL. The second was a flashing Cruise indicator. Moved the car about 50 feet, the lights didn't clear. Turned the car off and on (several times), the lights did not clear. Checked the owners manual, it suggested two simulataneous problems--one with the emission control system and one with having bumped (and therefore disabled) the cruise control lever while starting the car. I do not believe the second item as I stopped and restarted the car several times while placing close attention to not touching the cruise control lever and the cruise light did not clear. Got out and removed/replaced the fuel filler cap. In the car, unplugged my cell phone from the 12V charger (was using the outlet in the armrest). Started the car and all indicator lights were back to normal. Has anyone heard of similar symptoms? I need to take the car to the dealer to have the CEL code pulled, but I suspect a connection problem with the cell phone was throwing off the electrical circuit. Or is this some special magical code that was not shown in the owner's manual? 2005 Legacy 2.5i Sedan. TIA, mikkl

I would take that bet. In my experience, Toyota 'quality' is largely based on the name anymore and not the product. My 1995 corolla was still under 100k and during the last three years of ownership I average $100/month in repair bills. (recently sold, thank goodness!!) My 2003 Sienna sucks down gas like it is going out of style and rattles like a car from the 70's. They made their name years ago and are resting on their laurels today. Just like Mercedes and BMW. When my van dies (and I do not expect it to take very long), it will be a Subaru that takes its place. mikkl

Thanks Jamie--that is not what I am seeing. I simply have a twitchy switch. Thanks again, mikkl

Does anyone have the text of bulletin 15-117-06, Keyless Remote Transmitter Modification? The information on http://techinfo.subaru.com indicates this bulletin is to correct unintended actuation issues with the keyless remote. I am interested to know what they consider "unintended actuation" and the nature of the repair. I have found that the remote on my 2005 Legacy will unlock the doors with only a vary light touch of the unlock button. I would like something like a one second delay (similar to the trunk). If this is the sort of thing the bulletin discusses, then I will have the dealer do it the next time I have my oil changed. TIA, mikkl

All too frequently here in Ohio, the *only* people you see with lights on during these times are the folks with DRLs. Not even the police routinely turn their lights on at dusk or when it is lightly raining during the day. What surprised me here in the States is that DRLs are not standard on more cars in the US. Since they have to sell them in Canada, the wiring harness exists. Why do something two different ways? mikkl

Actually, it was the dash assembly flexing into the windshield. Seems that in the new Legacys the entire front of the dash is attached to nothing and so is free to move. In my case, when the temperature was just right, the dash would apparently loosen a bit and flex into the windshield with every bump of the road. I suspect tightening the bolts holding the dash in place did almost as much as the rubber shim they added. mikkl

Reading the posts here, I was expecting the worst from my dealer. Well, I have to write in and brag on them. Fairfield Subaru in Southern Ohio. I have a new 2005 Legacy that developed a rattle in the dash that was driving me crazy (you can see my earlier posts asking for help on taking the dash apart). Took the car in for an oil change (lifetime oil changes included in the purchase price) and mentioned the problem. They took it out and confirmed the noise. Gave me a loaner car and spent the better part of two weeks chasing rattles. Found that the Y-pipe was making noise (broken internally), replace that. Couldn't repeat the original rattle but believed me when I told them how to repeat the noise. Confirmed the noise and kept chasing until they could fix it. Finally fabricated a rubber shim to fit between the windshield and the dash. You can not tell that they did anything, but the car is a quiet and as solid feeling as a Lexus. All of the work covered under warranty. Yes, I bought the mechanic and the assistant service manager a beer, they deserved it. So, there are good dealers out there! I just feel lucky to have one! mikkl

Have you tried disconnecting it from the power source (there is a plug on the back of the mirror) for about 30 seconds and then plugging it back in again? There is also a reset procedure that should be detailed in your owners manual--I just don't remember it off the top of my head. mikkl

Does anyone have directions on how to remove the dashboard of a 2005 legacy sedan? I have a rattle to chase. (though I may ask the dealer to go chasing it for me, I would like to have some idea of what is going on so perhaps we can get it fixed) TIA, mikkl

Just wondering, could it be a ground problem? You mentioned that you replaced all the wires--I am wondering if perhaps somewhere in the system the ground wires are losing good contact with the chassis and engine. mikkl

Nice description. Thanks for posting it. mikkl

Ok, related question. In my 2005 Legacy Sedan, how many wheels have to be slipping for me to get stuck? If I understand correctly, I believe the answer is three - one on the front and both on the rear as it is listed as having a rear limited slip differential. But I am still trying to understand how this all works. <edit> So I have gone off and done some reading and found a very nice site explaining how this all works: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm Now that I understand this all a bit better, three slipping wheels sounds right to me. (Well, actually, I prefer four in a sideways drift, but that is another subject) mikkl

Sharp car, Lucky. With that front bumper geometry, I see why you went with the Autozone bracket. Am I correct in assuming you only used two screws for attachment? mikkl

After a great deal of searching, I finally ended up using the bracket for the Saturn ION. Found it on eBay for $2.50 plus shipping. You can see the part here http://tinyurl.com/9o3ey You have to drill three holes in your bumper fascia and then use a pop rivet gun to attach the bracket with the included rivets. I like the way it looks on my '05 Legacy. I attempted to post a photo of it in this thread (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43138), but it is hard to show a black frame on a black car with a white license plate. mikkl