Ever Victorious
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Posts posted by Ever Victorious
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One would think, but actually not so easy. The 2 Pick n Pulls near me had 11 Outback/Legacies. I got the ONLY front pump that was still left when I went a week ago. And that one's not working either. :/
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Well, crap.
Had time to bust out the multimeter tonight.
Front washer connector: <1V and infinite resistance when off, 13.5-14V and 20-230 ohms when on.
Rear washer connector: <1V and infinite resistance when off, 13.5-14V and 20-50 ohms when on.
Before I replace both pumps, I just gotta know... am I cleaning the connectors wrong? What is the proper way to clear them and ensure good contact?
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Not sure if this was missed by you guys, but I already replaced the front pump and it didn't fix anything. New front pump doesn't get power when I flip the switch either. I haven't tried applying 12v directly to the pump from the battery yet, will definitely try the multimeter first.
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If I'm not mistaken, don't the wipers and the washers share the same fuse? Wipers work fine.
Thanks on the multimeter. My "helper" keeps wandering off when I do work on the car (10 YOs don't have good attention spans) so I may have to duct tape him to the wheel to help me.
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2000 OBW. Neither the front nor rear washer is working. Wipers work fine at both ends. It doesn't sound like either pump is engaging/powering on. I have tried replacing the front pump, and spraying the connectors for both pumps with an electronics cleaner. Both connectors look gunked up/corroded, which is why I used the cleaner. On the spades, I also rubbed a q-tip while the cleaner was still wet to try to get some of it off, but to no avail.
Ideas at this point?
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You dont immediately go for the stop-leak. First you gut the thermostat and run it till that doesn't work anymore - which could be thousands of miles or farther.
GD
Which could be fun in itself. The radiator WAS leaking, and showed signs of having a sealant used on it. Who knows what kind of crap is floating around the cooling system at this point.
(and to clarify, it was not me that added said sealant. I'm not THAT dumb.)
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After looking at a couple YouTube videos of head gasket replacement, it's clear that it is definitely beyond my mechanical abilities.
When my title says "Hazard to Himself", that is not entirely a joke. My diagnostic abilities (which have been proven to be not so great, lately) are FAR better than my repair abilities when it comes to cars.
I appreciate the zeal for all of you do-it-yourselfers who are far more capable than me. But that's you, not me. Please respect that I am the kind of person who could put an eye out changing a tire.
Again, thanks GD for your pertinent response, and edrach for a PM'ed lead about someone who might be able to help me.
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Welcome back! They do tend to suck you back in, for better or worse...
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Once you get the engine out you'll realize how simple it is to take the head off. It isn't all that hard. Just take pictures of all the parts you took off to make sure you put them back in the right place.
Engine has to come out, eh? Alright, let's now add to the list: Insufficient space.
Thanks to GD for actually giving me an answer applicable to my situation:
Start by removing the guts from the thermostat - just leave the open metal ring to hold the gasket in place. That should suffice for a bit while you save money and decide what you want to do.If you like - you could drive it down to Portland with the gutted thermostat and I could do the HG repair on-the-cheap in one long-ish day. Would probably run about $320 labor and about $200 parts. That's just the gaskets, seals, etc from the dealer and R&R the engine, resurface the heads by hand, reassemble and drop it in.
Assuming you reuse timing components, clutch (if applicable), etc it can be done on the cheap. It usually ends up running into the $1000 range because in my shop because people opt to do complete new timing components, clutch parts, plugs, wires, VC gaskets, etc. All that stuff adds up.
GD
Doing the t-stat is how I found out about the HG. NONE of the other symptoms of a head gasket were present, because as I found out, the previous owner removed the thermostat. GRRR!
I may take you up on that offer. Because it's PDX, it's not going to be right away. Plus I'd still have to save up the money.
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Do it yourself!
Right, why didn't I think of that?
Oh yeah... insufficient tools, insufficient knowledge.
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It's the damn head gasket. And I can't afford a mechanic to fix it.
Anyone near by want to do it and cut me a deal on it?
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I had never seen the SVX chase. It makes a good Subaru commercial
http://www.streetfire.net/video/the-entire-televised-police-chase-from-seattle-fro_20825.htm
It doesn't show the end, though...
He pulls up in some random stranger's yard, gets out, and is pretty much immediately taken down by a motorcycle cop.
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You know, I've never tried the different keys in the 3 Subes we have...
If they're similar years, they might just work. I went to Les Schwab many years ago to get tires for my '82 GL wagon, and some poor schmuck who had just parked to go into Subway almost ended up in the bay getting new tires because my key turned on HIS soob...
And that car thief has taste.
Anyone remember the idiot that went on a high speed chase in Seattle a few years back and (sadly) wrecked the SVX he stole?
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Your new tires will be slightly taller, and slightly narrower then what is on the car now. Like others said......they will fit. If you have all wheel drive, make sure all tires are the same size on the car.
Taller only. Not narrower. They're both 185's.
They will make the speedometer read slower than the car is actually going.
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Thank you.
Yes, this is to get at the wiring. Installing a cruise computer for a cruise system refit.
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Probably a dumb question. But the entry in my stupid Chilton's manual for removal is even dumber.
On the subject, it says:
"Remove glove box bin. To install, follow steps in reverse order"
Yeah, no S Sherlock. But... how? Where are all the fasteners, and are there any funky tricks? I'd like to know so I don't, oh, break it.
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When I first started driving, 89 cents/gal at Arco, and 99 cents to 1.04 at "premium" gas stations was the norm.
My '82 GL FWD 5-speed wagon could go about 400 miles on $10.
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Bump to see if anyone answers the last couple questions that were asked.
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Maybe it's time to bring back voice warnings, along with a HUD that throws a warning on the glass itself, and they both say, verbatim:
"If you don't pull over in 60 seconds, your engine WILL blow up."
... followed by "I will tell your mom/dad/wife/husband that it's your fault, too."
(not that it would do any good)
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I know a shop in Everett that will do work with any parts you give them, within reason. Although I've never asked them to put on a used head, they did do a used intake manifold on another vehicle for me. They will not warranty the parts, only the labor. If you can pull/find a decent head, I can give you their info.
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holy S*** batman! lmao 2.49 a gallon? i pay over a dollar more a gallon for 87.......it costs 3.65 a gallon and thats at the cheapo stations.... shell cost 3.74 for 87..... diesel is pretty much 4 dollars as well as kerosene.
lucky!
oh and my car doesnt like gas additives..... i BURN through gas with additives....like f.i. cleaner or gas antifreeze or octane booster lol
Did you bother to read the date on the thread you were responding to?
Because it was over 4 years old.
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On each title issue on my report, it gives a title number. The first 3 have the exact same title number on mine, which means same title, same owner. Then the title number changes for its last issuance in Alaska (sale to 2nd owner). Then there's a boat load of registrations in WA, before another title issuance (3rd owner). There are a couple times where two different title #'s are issused "in a row", but the dates are for the same date, so one is a null or invalid number. A little harder to read than, say, a Carfax, but doable.
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Here's the ownership record:
up through 37k miles and 06/1997, it was a lease vehicle in CT
37k through 99k miles and 11/2001, it was privately owned in CT
99k through 113k miles and 09/2002, it was owned in MA
past 113k (no more mileages given) and through 09/2005, it was owned in PA
from 09/2005 through 10/2011, it has been in WI
.. and then I bought it.
How many times were titles issued? That might be able to tell whether the two "owners" in CT are actually the same person, and/or if the owner moved to another state. Might show records like emissions prior to a title issuance...
For instance, I just did this on my sedan, and owner 1 lived in AK, Owner 2 (clearly a different title #) bought it in AK but owned it for a significant amount of time in WA, before selling it. Then I can see where owner 2 sold it to owner 3, and owner 3 sold it to owner 4, and then owner 4 sold it to me.
By the way, cool trick!
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Just saw this and tried it on my Lego.
Mostly clean, although I find it funny that it has been stolen and recovered TWICE.
Originally registered in Alaska, it moved to WA somewhere around '95. And except for a period of time between '97 and '99, the regular odometer checks indicate that most of the time, it has been driven about 4k miles/year.
Outback washer not working
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Finally had the stars align and I had both good weather and time on my hands. Went to the junkyard again and pulled another set of front and rear washer pumps. Slapped them in, works great. So it looks like both were bad when I got the car, as was the first one I got from the junkyard.