jdemaris

I have special AC and compressor tools for other makes of compressors - but not for this Kansei Calsonic. I thought I was going to have to make a puller -but it all ended up coming off very easy. All I needed was a metric Allen/Hex wrench to get out the center bolt. Then the outside clutch-plate slid off by hand which was a surprise. Then reached in with a right-angle snap-ring pliers and removed the one snap ring. Then -carefully used two big screwdrivers as pry bars behind the pulley-bearing assembly and it came right off. This was on my very rusty 95. If life is fair, my 2002 ought to be as easy.

Magnesium Chloride IS a salt, just as is Calcium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, etc. What type used depends on what towns, counties, and states decide to buy. Here in my part of New York State, the main choice it salt mined from under the great lakes (mostly under Lake Ontario). In northern Michigan where I own some rural properites, salt trucks spead brine all summer long on dirt roads. I have no idea what that stuff is, or where they get it. Regardless it's all very desrtuctive to cars, trees, ground water, etc. Funny that a few years ago I bought a 1992 Dodge truck from northern Maine. It came from an area that only uses sand. It is almost rust free. If that truck was from my area of NY, there would be nothing left of it includng the frame. With Subarus - all my Loyales and Justys rusted something awful. But the 1995 Impreza is the most rust-resistant Subaru I've even had. Not so with this 2002.

I gave up trying to get a number. I found out my 95 Impreza has the same CR-14 Kansei pump as my 2002 Impreza Outback. I pulled it apart and got the bearing number. Now have it on order for $28. The bearing is staked in but still easy to get out and retake the new one.

It's a 21 state recall. CT, DE, DC, ILL, IND, Iowa, Maine, MD, MASS, MI, Minnesota, Missouri, NH, NJ,NY OH, PA, RI, VT, WV, and Wisconsin. Obviously - I don't know all the proper abbreviations.

Just got a letter in the mail today from Subaru. They are recalling 2002-2007 Imprezas and 2003-2008 for rust damage and front lower control arms that might break off. Got me wondering - this is supposed to be something new? I've junked over 20 Subarus due to suspension parts falling off due to rust. Now I guess I have to check my "newest" 2002 Impreza Outback. This was an old mans car and not driven much in the winter. Even so, half the exhaust system was full of rust holes. The oil pan on the 2.5 engine also rusted out. Kind of makes wonder how much cost-cutting has been done. I've got a 95 Impreza with near 300K miles on it and it's be on the road every day of every salty winter and summer. Yeah - they salt some of our roads in the summer too. I've had to change rear wheel bearings twice, but the rest has been fine. The 1995 still has all the original exhaust and never had the engine oil pan rot out yet. In fact, I've got some 80s Loyales that had back wheels fall off but the oil pans never leaked and wheel bearings never went bad. Nor did the head gaskets in the 1.8s.

I've love to get that Subaru in the photo. I've been looking for non-rusted-out Loyales for years - but can't find them anymore in the salt-belt of New York State. I've got over 20 4WD Loyale wagons sitting up in my field. All ran when junked. All taken off the road when the rear wheels were no longer attached to the car due to rusted out sub-frames. My last one - a 1992 - just had the rear sub-frame break in two.

Yes, there are steel weights that are tack-welded on. I've knocked off a few rusty ones that were pretty much gone anyway. Driveshaft is easy to check. Just unhook one end and wobble it all directions. If stiff - or loose - in needs new joints. I suspect most repair shops would refuse to install new joints. I know my local Subaru dealer won't. That's why I do my own.

Not worth the bother where I live. I'm in the rural "rust belt" near the Adirondack Mountains of NY. Any Subaru in the junkyard will have the same problems I have, if not worse. Besides that issue - most junkyards in my area now crush anything once 8-10 years old. Most times when I go to one, they want to sell me new aftermarket parts instead of used. The last of the "old fashioned" junkyards near me closed down two years ago. He had cars back to the 1950s. All gone now - and the steel coming back as Daewoos and Kias. I buy just about all my junkyard parts from down south. There is a great on-line used parts database at: http://www.car-part.com/ Just so happens they don't have the pipe I want. Not exactly the sort of thing a seller is motivated to sell on-line.

I already did that. Besides being cracked in two places, it also had several pin-holes in it. I stick welded some thicker areas and mig welded some thinner areas. It sounds pretty good now but I know it's not going to last. At this point I'm thinking about buying a piece of 2" OD T-304 stainless-steel pipe and trying to bend it to fit. I can weld new flanges on to it, no problem. Main issue is IF it will bend without collapsing. Dynomax sells it in 16 gauge which seems pretty thin to me. They advertise it as being bendable. They want $90 for a 5 foot length. I can also buy direct from my steel supplier with T-304 and 12 gauge which I much prefer. And it only costs $45 for 5 feet. But, will I be able to bend it? The 12 gauge stuff is 1.9" OD instead of 2" which is exactly what the OEM Subaru pipe is (1.9" OD).

I've got a bearing going bad in the AC compressor clutch-pulley in my 2002 Impreza Outback. I'm haivng trouble finding for sure what bearing I need. I know I can pull it part and match by bearing # - but I want to pre-buy the bearing. Then work on the car once and fix it. As I understand it, Subaru has used Kensei Calsonic CR-14 compressors from 1993 to 2005. I have the CR-14 on my 2002 Impreza. I'm pretty sure it probably uses the following - but I'd like to know if anyone is sure before I order one. Here are all the cross-refernce #s for that same bearing I THINK I need. KOYO# DAC3555RD3H , 83A694 , DAC35552RD3XSI , DAC35550020 NACHI# 35BG05G 2DS , 35BG05S10G 2DSTZ - 35BD219DUK Used: in Diesel Kiki (SELTEC) , GM Sanden 505, 507, 708 HONDA 709, TR70, TR90 & Nissans DIM: 35x55x20mm

The rubber used in AC systems with R12 is different then newer hose now used with 134. 134 has a smaller molecular structure and leak slowly through old R12 hoses. New hoses are called "barrier" hoses. They have a barrier liner in the ID to prevent leakage. That being said, the difference is not huge. The leak with 134 in old hoses can be very slow.

If there was a shop anywhere near me with a pipe-bending machine, I'd opt for a solid pipe, bent to fit. Some of the pipe used in those benders is thick wall and pretty good quality. No good for me though. I'm in rural area and there are no shops within a 100 mile drive with a bender. I looked at the Walker-Borla replacement pipe at NAPA and it is junk. I know it will rust and fall off within two years. Thus me wondering what an OEM Subaru pipe is made like for my 2002. If it was the same quality as my 1995, I'd buy it in a flash. But since my 2002 pipe is bad, and my original 95 pipe is still good - I suspect the 95 had much better steel in it. I'd love to get a piece of stainless-steel bent up to fit - but it's not going to happen around here. By the way, I'm not crazy. I just hate paying money for parts that I know are junk. When it comes to afermarket exhaust systems - most are poor quality.

I've had many Subarus develop symtoms like that. With mine it was usually the universal joints in the rear driveshaft. Easy fix IF you can get replacement joints. Not always easy to find. Subaru will tell you they are not replacable and sell you a whole new driveshaft. Not true. I've replaced many but it's a little trick getting them apart since they're staked in. My comments are for the 80s-90s rigs. Can't say on the newer ones. By the way, I've also had similar noises when rear wheel bearings went out on the late 90s and newer Subarus. NEVER had one go bad on the older rigs.

From all I've owned the older Subarus were the ones that were more practical and had less sillly frills. They also had better fuel mileage. My Loyale 4WD wagons with 1.8 engines and 5-speed manuals often got better then 30 MPG on the highway AND would go places few of the new Subarus will. My 1.3 liter Justy 4WD got even better miles but was pretty tiny. My mid-90s Imprezas with 2.2s all got around 26-27 at best. My 2002 Impreza with the 2.5 tends to get 24-25 MPG. It's fun to drive on a paved road - but I can't take it in the woods or up in field like I did with my Loyales. My neighbor has two Foresters with 2.5s and he's never even gotten 25 MPG. So what is really practical? To me it's a 4WD Loyale with a 1.8, high-low range transfer case, and air suspension to get extra ground clearance when needed.

My 2002 Impreza Outback needs an intermediate pipe, i.e. "resonator assembly." I'm wondering if the OEM pipe from Subaru is better quality than aftermarket, even though it's twice the price. I don't mind paying twice for something that will last four times as long. My 95 Impreza still has it's original exhaust and it's driven in very salty roads all winter, every winter. So I know it's got some stainless-steel in it. On the other hand, all my older Loyales had poor quality exhaust systems and seems the OEM stuff isn't much better then aftermarket. Far as I can tell, there is only one standard-performance aftermarket pipe available. That is from Borla. Seems Walker also sells the Borla pipe with a new part # and $20 added to the price. So, I can get for around $96. I can buy OEM from Subaru for $180. If I know it's better quality, I'm fine with the extra cost. In the long run , if better quality - it's cheaper. I just don't want to order it then get an "el-cheapo" surprise. Since the first OEM only lasted 10 years, I'm not real impressed thus far. For my GM trucks I used to always to the dealer and buy OEM pipes. They were double-wall and MUCH better quality then anything NAPA ever sold. But last time I ordered in some pipes - the came across the Chevy counter and they were Walkers! Same junk NAPA sells.

I've worked as HD mechanic for 40 years. Can't say I've ever seen evidence of a "glazed" surface on a flywheel causing a "shudder." Not in a car or a big tractor. Such a shudder is going to be caused by something being uneven, or oil on a disk, etc. If from something uneven - it can be the flywheel surface not being true/flat, the pressure-plate not releasing or grabbing concentrically, etc. Flywheels get raised hot spots, heat cracks, etc. With a dial indicator mounted, no more then .002" runout should be present. Glaze is the last thing I'd be concerned about. I'll take a used, glazed, but still true and flat flywheel over one that's been remachined and lightened. All "glaze" means is the surface is super-smooth. I'm not saying that using a worn flywheel can't cause problems. What I AM saying, it's not going to be from a glazed surface. When you rebuild an engine, you don't want glaze on cylinder walls because you need small grooves to hold oil . Not the case on a flywheel though. Glaze hurts nothing. Resurface that flywheel, and then drive for awhile, and it will soon glaze anyway. I hear the same nonsense with brake pads and calipers. Glaze is fine, but not being true causes problems. I suspect many more brake problems have been caused by resurfacing rotors - then from leaving good ones alone. same goes for jerks putting wheels back on with impact wrenches - and warping rotors. If your flywheel looks good but you are unsure - stick a dial indicator on it, rotate it, and see how much run-out you have. That's the issue, not a smooth surface (which is what glaze is). Technically, the more you resurface a flywheel, the faster it can heat up. Not a huge issue on little cars, but can be a big issue on HD stuff.

I stopped paying attention to brand names years ago. It often means nothing. Many of the most prominent corporate names swap products back and forth. I have not seen any difference in quality from names like Exedy, Brute Force, Perfection, Sachs, Beck-Arnley, etc. I've always bought by price, not brand-name. The one brand-name I'll never trust again - is the USA-brand AC Delco. I've put half a dozen new clutches in my own Subarus over the past 20 years, along with many for others It seems that whenever I buy a used Subaru with a stick, a month later the clutch goes. I put a new one in, and have never had one go again. That goes for Justys, Loyales, and Imprezas. I have never yet, had a Subaru that needed a new flywheel, or even any resurfacing. They are engineered so when the clutch starts slipping, there is still facing left, and little to no flywheel damage is done. That is partly due to the organic clutch. I'll add that with several, I put in new clutches without even pulling the engine. With those you can slide the engine forward enough to get just enough clearance to change the pressure plate and disk. Not the throughout bearaing though - it's too tight in there. You asked about preventative maintainance. That boils down to replacing any part that shows wear - and don't let anybody drive your car that can't drive stick. If you choose a metallic clutch, it can last longer, but is also apt to ruin your flywheel when it does wear out. You don't get something for nothing. I see organic clutches easily getting 150K miles if the person driving the car knows how to drive a stick. Last two complete clutch kits I bought for Loyales were from Brute Force and cost $80 each. I also just put a new clutch in a 2002 Impreza Outback with a 2.5. The Sachs kit was $165 shipped to my door. The Exedy would of cost the same. So, I could of bought from the Serbian-German company, or from the Japan-Hiroshima company. Quality-wise, the parts are probably identical.

I stopped paying attention to brand names years ago. It often means nothing. Many of the most prominent corporate names swap products back and forth. I have not seen any difference in quality from names like Exedy, Brute Force, Perfection, Sachs, Beck-Arnley, etc. I've always bought by price, not brand-name. The one brand-name I'll never trust again - is the USA-brand AC Delco. I've put half a dozen new clutches in my own Subarus over the past 20 years, along with many for others It seems that whenever I buy a used Subaru with a stick, a month later the clutch goes. I put a new one in, and have never had one go again. That goes for Justys, Loyales, and Imprezas. I have never yet, had a Subaru that needed a new flywheel, or even any resurfacing. They are engineered so when the clutch starts slipping, there is still facing left, and little to no flywheel damage is done. That is partly due to the organic clutch. I'll add that with several, I put in new clutches without even pulling the engine. With those you can slide the engine forward enough to get just enough clearance to change the pressure plate and disk. Not the throughout bearaing though - it's too tight in there. You asked about preventative maintainance. That boils down to replacing any part that shows wear - and don't let anybody drive your car that can't drive stick. If you choose a metallic clutch, it can last longer, but is also apt to ruin your flywheel when it does wear out. You don't get something for nothing. I see organic clutches easily getting 150K miles if the person driving the car knows how to drive a stick. Last two complete clutch kits I bought for Loyales were from Brute Force and cost $80 each. I also just put a new clutch in a 2002 Impreza Outback with a 2.5. The Sachs kit was $165 shipped to my door. The Exedy would of cost the same. So, I could of bought from the Serbian-German company, or from the Japan-Hiroshima company. Quality-wise, the parts are probably identical.

I know you checked, checked, and checked. I'll offer this comment anyway. I put a new belt and water-pump in a 2.5, 2002 Impreza recently. I also checked, double-checked, and triple checked. Got it all together, started fine, ran good, but idled kind of odd and a little rough. Sounded kind of like a 60s car I'd stuck a hot cam into. Down the road, it ran fine. After awhile, it started turning on the "check engine" light. Long story short, the cam on the passenger side was off one tooth. Other cam was fine.

I had two 80s Loyales and a 89 Jusy do the same thing. Luckily I found a place that sold special replacement universal joints since Subaru said there was no fix except a complete new driveshaft. Kind of pain to put them in, but worked out fine. Subaru has the originals staked in. I later found out muy 79 Datsun 280ZX has the same staked-in joints.

I don't have any specifics on what Subaru does to beef up their turbo-charged engines - but I assume it's not all about using forged-steel parts, or not. A turbocharger raises the "effective" compression-ratio, so usually an engine that's going to see 16 lbs. of boost has to have lower compression-ratio pistons stuck into it - than a non-turbo engine uses. And, turbo-pistons usually get some sort of protective coatiing to sustain the extra heat. I suspect they might also do things like using bigger piston pins and rod bushing - but like I said -my comments are not specific to Subaru.

At 300K miles, you've got many moving parts that might be near their end-of-life. It's a crap-shoot and much depends on what you pay for the car. Personally, I don't regard the Sub engine as any more durable then many others - as many see 400K if well cared for and mostly highway driven. A "back-road" car can see more wear in 100K and the highway rig at 300K. But, no matter how well cared for - there are parts that wear - e.g. CV shafts, wheel bearings, universal joints in rear driveshafts, suspension parts, accessories, etc. In my area of rural NY, 150K is usually the end of uesfull life for any Subaru if it's been a mostly "back-road" vehicle. Highway cars around 250K before repairs get more expensive then the car is worth - unless you do all you own repairs.

I had a couple of late 80s Loyale wagons. One just front wheel drive (useless!), and the other 4WD. Both with 5 speed manual. There was no noticeable difference in fuel mileage, but 3/4 of my driving is on hills, dirt roads, and not highway cruising. I also don't know what the axle-ratio was for the front-wheel drive. My 4WD had 3.90 to 1 ratio. All my 4WD wagons have 3.90s (I've got over a dozen). Final-drive ratio can make a huge difference. Now, Loyales with three-speed automatics were absolutely terrible on fuel mileage and also had an awful 4WD setup - but that's a different story. I suspect that you're going to see very little gain by removing all those parts. Maybe 2 MPG in ideal conditions? For the back of your trans - you need to fasten a drive-shaft stub in there to keep the oil in. As to unhooking rear half-shafts - if you're going to do it, remove both. I would not trust the differential side-gears to withand constant turning if you unhooked only one. Some rears are designed for that, but I doubt this one is. Many differentials have no bearings involved when those side-gears are turning, since they not meant to turn all the time. On somewhat related conversion. I have a 1999 Dodge AWD Grand Caravan . So does a friend of mine. Same year, same axle ratios, same engine, same trans. He recently removed the entire rear drive. Both rear stub-shafts, rear driveshaft, etc. He gained absolutely nothing in regard to highway fuel mileage. In fact, mine does almost 2 MPG better, but I assume that's because of my tires . . . and the engine is maybe in better shape. I just drove 2200 miles at averaged 23 MPG going 75 MPH most of the time. His van with the rear guts removed is getting a best of 21 MPG.

The "Great Stuff" is open-cell foam and soaks up water like a sponge. Looks good at first, but make a worse mess in the long-run. Soaks up water and helps things rot.

I'm sure prices vary by region. Rusty 4WD Loyales sell for next to nothing around here in NY, even if running perfectly. Easy to buy for scrap value and often less. I gave away two 4WD Loyale wagons last year that some people wanted to make farm-buggies out of. One had the high-low range transfer case that I now kind of wish I'd kept. Kind of sad because I've never had a major mechanical failure in a Loyale. Engines burn oil but seem to last forever. The three speed auto-trans has a terrible 4WD setup, but still seems to last. Clutches, rear driveshaft universal joints, front CV shaft boots, and exhaust sytems often need work. That's all pretty minor stuff - unless you try to buy rear universal joints from a Subaru dealer. I'd love to find more Loyale bodies that are rust free. Just don't come across them anymore. I think they rot from the inside out.