[83 subie will idle but will not take fuel]

One tooth off on the Distributor. As soon as you rack throttle, vac drops, advances timing too far and boom, spitting through carb.

[93 Subie crank pulley unscrews itself]

NO NO NO NO NO NO

 

 

 

Bad idea, danger will robinson.

 

I mean, unless you want to break your tools or shear your crank pulley.

 

 

Loctite will also help keep it from moving.

 

All that will do is loosen the bolt. Starter spins the wrong way to tighten the bolt.

[1980 EA71 hard stumble under load]

Ok, been chasing this for a few weeks now.

 

1980 GL wagon 2wd, 5 speed, EA71. NEw cap,rotor,plugs,wires,fuel filter, air filter(both), new Vac. lines routed correctly. Secondaries are opening. No black smoke.

 

When I start the climbs here, I roll on the gas, above 2/3 throttle, it starts misfire and I lose speed. Drop a gear, it runs fine till 2/3 throttle then starts again. Misfire can be felt and sometimes heard. Compression is decent wet and dry. Plugs all look nice and tan, rear 2 (2 and 4) are a slight shade darker than 1/3. If I rack RPM to 4750 and above, it seems to clear up, but not always.

 

Carb is clean, new top gasket, choke is opening fully. I've tried new plugs, wires ohm out correctly, cap looks great, no burnt contacts, Dist. shaft is solid with no play. Valves in spec, adjusted last week, still in spec.

 

 

WTF am I missing here?????

 

It's a Cali emissions car too, so there are some differences.......

[ea81 locking flywheel what to use?]

I'd use an impact gun myself.

 

If you do not have one, a hardened punch is what you want.

[*added video* Clunk in front end when accellerating.. (i DID search, found nothing)]

That's something under pressure and load. Too deep to be anything else.

 

Time to start where crossmember meets car and work backwards, checking every connection from tires to body.

 

It almost sounds like your crossmember is shifting.

[What's up with these ball joints? (pics)]

If you consider this a failure(it is not),at least be observant enough to see that it is a "failure" from MOOG,not Rockauto.They are both MOOG 9081s.

MOOG buys them from whoever and reboxes them.

 

THIS.

 

Most auto parts suppliers do this frequently.

 

Parts have same dimensions, just look different, because they are 2 different designs of the same ball joint.

 

One which looks made to a pricepoint lower than the other.

 

At least he didn't open a "sealed" box of NGK plugs and find 2 that were attacked by a set of vice grips.

[What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)]

I never said you didn't take care of your car, its good you took care of the rust and all mechanicals. Most people don't.

 

I just can't stand scratched/dirty windows, and leaky lights, pet peeve if you will lol.

 

I am glad we don't have inspection or emissions testing in WI.

 

I am kinda shocked you can have a lifted Subaru with inspection, since in their eyes its an unsafe homemade alteration. I heard there was some country, that it is illegal to do anything to your car, that did not come factory. Not even larger wheels/tires.

 

Germany. And it must be a "factory approved" mod...Read In-house factory tuning or big money aftermarket that ponied up the funds to get parts approved.

[Doing Front Wheel Bearings , can't decide which bearing style to use]

Are you stuck with using Fastenal?

 

If so, I'd use the radial.

 

If not:

rockauto.com

 

[Cat converter location 1980 Subaru?]

Ok, I've looked and cannot see anything that looks like a cat, aside from a big lump shaped thing where the 2 pipes converge, just after the engine.

 

Is that the converter?

 

1980 GL-5 wagon EA71 motor.

[What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)]

re-wired Desertfind's dealer AC's relays so I do not have to open hood every time I turn car off to unhook fan and clutch. Also ran wire(supposed to be for AC lol) that will be for foglights.

 

Changed rear tire after separating tread @ 75 on the highway, found a new tire/rim and set of brown centercaps at junkyard and carpet dash pad that is same color as interior. Yay! no more cracked dash!

 

Swapped Alternator and VR on Sat. due to volts going from 8 to 16+ and back to 8 then 12 then 14 then peg at 8 then....AMAZED local auto parts store had both in stock.

 

 

This week is swapping seats for the hatch seats I found in the junkyard today.

[A/c & r-12]

Big difference between propane and gasoline is propane vapor temp is WAAAY under what Gasoline is. Gasoline at 85* ambient will flash to vapor over time..Propane at 85* ambient is already a gas.

 

Now, Propane is an approved refrigerant in many chiller systems. Any gas that can be compressed to a liquid will work as a refrigerant.

 

My problem with EA-12 is that it is not approved to use in an R12 system in the USA. And without using the proper fittings and labels, if you take that vehicle to a repair shop and do not have labels and fittings, the guy will contaminate his entire recovery tank if he reclaims the EA-12, thinking it's R-12.

 

Sure, he should use an gas checker first, but many shops go by fittings and labels alone.

 

3Oz of EA-12 makes an entire tank of recovered R-12 useless.

 

 

 

But, regarding EPA laws...It's perfectly legal for your system to vent to the air and be refilled every year...But if the Tech working on it cracks a valve seat without being hooked to a system, he is liable for a 15,000 dollar fine. Figure that one out.

[A/c & r-12]

I did ester and evac, 34PSI lowside, 104* ambient, getting 55* out of the vents at idle, 49 at 65mph.

 

Sight glass is clear until 3000 engine rpm when it flashes due to lack of airflow over condenser.

[A/c & r-12]

Yes keep both valves on the gauge set closed. The yellow hose hooks to whatever, vacuum pump, evacuator, freon can, etc. Also when measuring pressures keep the engine at fast idle like 1500 RPM, and the interior fan on high.

 

With R12, if there aren't many bubbles in the sight glass (fast idle, A/C on of course) you are probably charged ok. With R134a you can't really use the sight glass.

 

Cold A/C is a wonderful thing. I just got mine working again after my engine swap and it's cold. The A/C systems in the EA82 seem to be a good working setup. I use a hydrocarbon replacement for R12 and it works good, if yours needs a recharge that's a cheaper way to go.

 

http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm

 

You can dump straight propane into your AC system for 2.50 a gallon. EA-12A is mostly propane without an odor agent in it. I just hope one never blows an evap with it running and smokes.

[A/c & r-12]

There are many temp/pressure charts. google is your friend.

 

Sight glass is there for a reason. bubbles means the refrigerant is flashing to vapor BERFORe the metering device(in the dryer or evap., depending on system) and making things go all whacky. Foam looking stuff in sight glass=add more refrigerant. Without a solid column of liquid hitting dryer and sight glass, you'll never get cold air out the vents.

 

Here, Ambient of 104*F I shoot for 28-35PSI low side. Below 25PSI gives a saturation temp below freezing and you'll see evap icing and ice on the low side hoses.

 

Icing is where the problem is. Icing on evap=bad orifice tube/metering device. Icing on compressor inlet=bad valving in compressor.

Assuming full charge this is.

 

Below 65*, unless you want to do wetbulb tests, you cannot test an AC system by pressure. No heat to remove means nothing is happening and refrigerant is just moving through the system. Need a heat load to move heat.

[power window fix]

Another common location on later legacy's is inside the rubber boot between door and body. I've had 2 wagons that wires were fractured inside that boot.

[Smokey EA82?!]

Sounds like subaru needed to add a windage tray and baffles to the oil pan.

[Dude..... wheres my flasher?]

Could he be looking for the actual flasher relay itself by chance?

[EJ made to run like a big 2 cylinder, lots of lowend Tork Discussion]

Making a subaru Boxer into a Big Bang motor is going to be difficult. Even more so with EFI.

[Brake concern...]

Internal leak in the MC. It can build pressure but not build pressure from a single press.

 

No leaks+Bled+crappy pedal=blown MC, or MC is on it's way out.

[Bed Lining Pre-Work]

Ospho is the best rust treatment I've ever used. We use it for industrial applications at my work, it's pricey but nothing else works as well in my experience.

 

Jasco Prep and Etch is almost the same stuff, just a slightly less Phosphoric acid %.

 

And it works excellent for prepping metal for ANY coating.

[In rad temp sensor ? Ea82]

FWIW, the fan relay grounds out through that switch. make sure Rad is grounded to body as well.

[What Have You Done to your Soobie lately? (Please post in here and keep it going)]

Carpetbombed Desertfind with Chemtool B12 to try and stop idle stumble.

 

2 cans in 2 gallons of gas and idling for 30 min. Almost instant results

[How to remove AC components from Loyale EA82?]

Yea, I would need everything under the hood to use those hoses.

 

Thanks anyway!

[Parting out 79 4wd wagon]

Are the hatch struts good? IF so, I could really use them.

[Zero brake pressure unless pumped]

If you want a spare. those units I've found to be a BIG PITA to remove from ANY car.

 

If you still have power assist on the pedal, chances are the booster is still good.