AWDGLF5

I found the exact same thing - harder launches and extreme fun in the wet. I was running a 3.54 viscous LSD too - made things a lot more fun! You also want to toe out the front wheels a bit, gives more stability in cornering for a RWD, as there is no turn-in on power.

I did it for just over two years in my (then) EA81 powered '82 wagon

This is wrong if the car is lifted. I have an EA82 in my lifted wagon, and an EJ20G in my stock height GLF-5. The wagon required way more cutting of the chassis rails than the coupe did, in particular on the LH back where it had to clear the dizzy. The EA82 is the widest Subaru motor I've seen. From memory I had to redrill the plates between the mounts and the motor to bring them inwards, it was either that or elongating the crossmember holes, as you do in an EJ conversion.

L series turbo automatics that are Australian delivered are most likely quite different to the US specs. Most came with an open rear diff, although I have seen a few with clutch pack LSD's.

Thanks guys - so many good answers so quick. Yes Free Range I will be adding a pair of additional shocks at some point too, hopefully that will help the strut top rubber breakages. GeneralDisorder: I've thought along those lines with the control arms before, thankyou for bringing it up - means I'm not crazy! Got the skid plates & beefed diff hanger on there already And Qman, that is a very valid point. I do intend on some sort of body reinforcement at the rod mount, but realistically there's not much that can be done. I have a set of EA82 style radius rods buried in the shed back at my parent's house, would these be any better in the short term? I seem to remember them being rather puny too.

I have quite a few reasons for deciding against the divorced transfer option, main one being a switch soon to a 4.11 AWD gearbox. The main use of the car isn't rock crawling, it's mainly beach & mud work and I haven't ever felt the gearing to be a stumbling block. Slowing down is not an option either I should make my intentions a little more clear. Number one priority is to stop breaking stuff without a change in driving conditions. I figure since you guys run much bigger tyres than I do that you must have done something in this area - unless you're changing parts every other week like me.:-\

Hi all, I've had a good in depth read of this site and I can't find what I'm looking for, so I'll just put this up and ask. What I want to know is, how do you guys go about upgrading the front suspension to take some knocks? In my Subaru stable I have a 1982 wagon that gets absolutely hammered offroad, in its current state it is running a 3" lift and a Weber'd EA82 carby motor with a 5spd DR and 27x8.5 tyres. I notice a lot of the EA81 body cars on this forum are running 28's and 29's, so I figure someone has figured out how to toughen things up a bit. I have bent quite a few radius rods and control arms, I've ripped countless strut tops, bent the radius rod mounting plates and even sheared studs off the gearbox mounts! When I inspected the front end today I noticed my balljoints have stress marks too! The future plan for this car is to fit the 4" BYB lift I have and at least 29" offroad tyres on six lug rims. Oh and doubling or tripling the HP is on the cards too. So I want to be a bit safer about it! Any suggestions?

Thanks guys. http://community.webshots.com/photo/279072954/289930115CMYZjR There's a picture of my two side by side. The wagon didn't have the EA82 or its 8mm ally bash plate then, was only EA81 with the 5 speed. http://community.webshots.com/photo/279072954/289930115CMYZjR that's my webshots, not a lot on there unfortunately. http://timsoob.3d.net That's the site I started to build about the EJ20T conversion, lost interest in it pretty quickly http://www.cardomain.com/ride/321484 That's something i started working on too, lost interest in that also. Does have some engine bay pics of the coupe, although they're a bit muddy. Also, I forgot a couple more mods... Wagon 8mm aluminium (aka Ally:)) bash plate for motor 4mm steel bash plate for diff 3.5" single piece tailshaft RPM heavy duty clutch Coupe Front slotted & cross drilled rotors Rear discs - slotted rotors Bendix Advance front pads, Bendix Metal King+ rears Heavy duty Exedy clutch Some of you may know me as tim_81coupe from the Ausubaru forums, btw.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43801 also there.

Hi, I've been a long time lurker on this board and I decided I'd finally sign up today. Thought I'd tell you a bit about what I drive too. I have two Subarus, both 1982 models. Both are extensively modified too The Wagon 1982 DL model 3" homemade lift kit EA82 carby motor, recently rebuilt 32/36 DGAV Weber GT40RT coil BP6EY v-groove plugs 5 speed dual range EA82 gearbox 3.9 final drive, welded rear diff (one axle trick on the road) 14" Speedy wheels 27" Kelly tyres The Coupe 1982 GLF-5 model EJ20G turbo motor, from 1993 legacy RS HEC716 coil conversion BPR6EIX iridium's 3" K & N pod 3" mandrel bent exhaust WRX top mount intercooler with water spray GFB dual stage boost control (6psi low, 16psi high) 5 speed AWD box 4.11 final drive, rear viscous LSD 15" genuine Subaru RX ex-rally rims Pirelli P6000's, 205/65/R15 (only just fit in the guards, still lights 'em up) In the next few weeks I'll be doing some more mods to the coupe, larger injectors, larger turbo, front mount intercooler and Link engine management.

Hi, I've done this very swap to my 82 DL wagon using an 87 carb motor. Apart from the steering wheel being on the other side (I'm in Australia) it should be mostly the same. I had to re-drill the plates that hold the mounts to the engine so the mounts sit a bit further back. Also, I had to cut & shut both chassis rails as the EA82 is a much wider motor. I had to cut all the way back to clear the distributor on the LH side. Wiring couldn't have been easier, took 5 minutes at the most to do. In hindsight I'd have moved the coil to the LH side, at the moment I have the world's longest coil lead stretched across my engine bay, wasting precious spark. Top & bottom radiator hoses needed to be custom. I used a top hose from a 2.5 diesel Mitsubishi Triton as my top hose, and a top hose from a 1.3 Toyota Echo as my bottom hose. Depending on availability you might need to run something else. Heater hoses also had to be custom, I bought some "Unicoils", put them on some standard heater hose and bent them into shape. Since I was already running the 5spd EA82 gearbox, I used a stock clutch and a stock flywheel. Stock throttle cable, stock exhaust headers (EA81), stock axles, stock radiator. Been 3 months now and no worries. Oh, the car has 3" of lift too, and one of my lift blocks had to be modified as it was fouling on the motor.