johnceggleston
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Posts posted by johnceggleston
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I think you should not deprive the NASIOC forum of your wisdom. They are always looking for some good contributions.
seriously funny.
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i think the only turbo 95 - 99 was the WRX, or what ever they called it.
some legos ej22, 92 - 94 had turbos.
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filling the engine thru the top rad hose is a faster way to fill,
and reduces the likely hood of an air lock.
is it necessary, no.
but if you are impatient it is a way to get the job done.
i have not found any need to do it.
the simple facts are this - the fastest & most efficient way
to fill a Subaru cooling system - and almost gaurantee no issues with
large air pockets - is basically the way described above. It isnt about
what the radiator "looks" like, or even how it functions - it is about
efficiency and making sure there are no large air pockets left in the
block that can potentially cause overheating problems.one of the contributing factors to the filing issue , imho,
is how well the t-stat seal when closed.
example,
i replaced the o-ring gasket on h6 at the oil filter.
the oil filter has a coolant fill mount that the oil flows through.
i assume this is to cool the oil.
any way,
when i disconnected the coolant hose,
i had a tub prepared to catch all the coolant.
but NO.
the only coolant that drained was what was in the hose.
none flowed out of the rest of the system.
i could not believe it.
i'm pretty sure if i had opened the rad cap, a lot would have flowed out.
but with the rest of the system sealed,
i only got a dribble.
i was surprised.
now, back to our off topic discussion.....
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filling the engine thru the top rad hose is a faster way to fill,
and reduces the likely hood of an air lock.
is it necessary, no.
but if you are impatient it is a way to get the job done.
i have not found any need to do it.
the simple facts are this - the fastest & most efficient way
to fill a Subaru cooling system - and almost gaurantee no issues with
large air pockets - is basically the way described above. It isnt about
what the radiator "looks" like, or even how it functions - it is about
efficiency and making sure there are no large air pockets left in the
block that can potentially cause overheating problems.one of the contributing factors to the filing issue , imho,
is how well the t-stat seal when closed.
example,
i replaced the o-ring gasket on h6 at the oil filter.
the oil filter has a coolant fill mount that the oil flows through.
i assume this is to cool the oil.
any way,
when i disconnected the coolant hose,
i had a tub prepared to catch all the coolant.
but NO.
the only coolant that drained was what was in the hose.
none flowed out of the rest of the system.
i could not believe it.
i'm pretty sure if i had opened the rad cap, a lot would have flowed out.
but with the rest of the system sealed,
i only got a dribble.
i was surprised.
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why replace the key?
has the timing jumped due to the sprocket , key and key way being messed up?
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regarding used 03 ej25 engines,
there are 2 risks,
the fairly common, external head gasket leak , 00- 01 more so than 03 - 04.
and the much less common bad rod bearing.
(my 00 ej25 spun a rod bearing at 82k miles.)
so i would rather risk a used engine than spend double the money on a JDM engine.
a used engine is a risk,
but it is a calculated risk.
look for a good used engine in your area ,
ideally from a wrecked car.
if it was running when wrecked,
it was probably an ok engine.
sort by zip code to see what is close.
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well you have lots more multi-car experience than i do.
im limited to
61 chevt pick up
67 dodge pick up
79 datsun pick up
83 isuzu diesel pick up
90 nissan pick up
and suabrus 93, 95 , 97, 98, 00, 01.
the simple fact of the matter is , if you fill the cooling system of a 90 - 99 legacy too fast with the vent plug closed,
you will get an air lock which is hard to get rid of.
also a fact, after market t-stats are not as large as suabru t-stats,
and will often cause overheating.
personally,
i'd rather re-install a 17 year old subaru t-stat than a cheap after market item.
but don't take my word for it,
do your own research.
i do not know everything.
but i am not alone in this statement of facts.
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first you remove the pulley and timing sprocket,
then the key is easy.
if there is no damage to the parts,
a tap on the front of the sprocket may loosen it.
spray lube will help.
DO NOT break the tabs on the rear of the sprocket.
i used a harmonic balancer puller the first time,
but only because i had no experience with it.
you do not really need one.
if there is grunge on the shaft you can clean it up with very fine steel wool or sand paper.
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I'd like to know what stopped the coolant from going through that big
ole hole in the top tank and down into the upper hose. I have never
seen a gate valve on that bung. I have never had a problem filling any
vehicle just through the radiator,
you must be new to subarus.
if you had ever owned, driven, or more on point filled the rad of a 90 - 99 subaru,
you would not be asking these questions.
the 00 - 04 do not have a vent plug.
but they are not as temperamental when filling either.
they relocated the top rad hose in 00.
it is now closer to the middle of the rad and higher.
(the H6 has two top hoses )
the filling problem in the 90s was due to the location of the hose,
and the need for the air in the block to come out the same hose the coolant was going in.
the vent plug helps in this ''2 way street'' activity.
it gives the air a short cut out of the rad.
but if you fill the coolant FAST, you will trap air in the block,
creating an air lock.
and burping may not clear it.
the 2 most important steps when filling a 90s cooling system,
1/ remove the vent plug
2/ fill SLOWLY
in the 00s the problem is not as bad.
just fill it slowly.
for all years,
how do you know you filled it correctly?
because it took 6 qts.
(check your manual for the exact amount, it may be slightly more.)
keep track of how much you added.
if you start with 2 full gallons, this is pretty easy,
2 qts left.
here's how i do it.
works every time,
no burping needed.
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does it still not start?
check the timing ,
if it is off you could generate some misleading codes.
if it runs,
disconnect the battery for a couple of hours and see what codes come back first.
are the green connectors connected under the dash?
they should not be.
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you can probvably buy a new replacement assembly, generic , for 10$ or less at the parts store.
a slight pain to install but ....
or run buy the 7/11 and buy a bic lighter for $1.
or buy a splitter that plugs into the cig lighter,
that then gives you 2 outlets.
one for the charger and one for your ''lighter''.
or buy a new generic assembly and install it in a different location,
powered buy a different fuse.
subaru, or some aftermarket company, actually makes one specifically for the ashtray area,
but you probably still need that as well.
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some folks, me included, have some luck adding ''techron'' fuel system cleaner to the fuel tank.
if will not make it ''like new'',
but is may improve the sending unit some.
my 95 lego sat for almost a year
and the fuel gauge did not work at all.
techron brought it back to working,
but showing empty around 200 miles
and filling up take 10 - 12 gals.
an idea about replacement sending units.
if you install a resistor on the driver side of the tank,
the gauge will be solely dependent on the passenger side, fuel pump side.
if you install a new sender on that side,
depending on the size of the resistor on the other side,
you could end up using only half of the gauge,
the top half, the middle half or maybe the bottom half of the gauge.
the gauge would be ''smaller'', only covering half the range,
but more accurate.
i think i would opt for the bottom half of the gauge,
so E would mean EMPTY,
not ''unknown'' gallons left.
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does it work if you push it in and hold it in?
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what is the trans id number on both of the trans?
it is located on the bell housing at the starter.
i do not think the second pic is a 98.
the 98 has the speed sensor in the same place as the 95.
and my experience has been that 95 - 98 ej22 car auto trans are the same.
the 99 ej22 car auto trans is a phase 2 trans.
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Also, about the same time I noticed my AWD quit my AT Temp Light started flashing 16 times.
"read the codes, luke, read the codes." said obi wan kenobi !!!!
and you should probably read them as soon as the AT Temp light flashes.
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Clicking noise still there. Got a new OEM axle coming for Friday and am going to have it installed. More news then.
suggestion:
to identify which side the axle is bad,try driving in circles first one way and then the other,
while someone stands in the middles of the circle.
which ever direction has louder ''clicking'' ,
that is the side with the bad axle.
i recently replaced a really bad clicking axle,
only to discover the other was clicking as well, damn the re-man axles.
so i replaced the other one too.
don't waste your ''axle install'' by replacing the wrong one.
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if trailer wiring is not the cause.
i would remove / disconnect the steering column switch.
it could be bad.
or the connector,
or the wiring in the column.
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It is a 98 2.2 auto trans. I do not know what model it came from, but
the guy behind the desk says it will fit from his info.
this is accurate, it will work.
the 95 ej22 lego has a 4.11 ratio.
you can use an auto trans from any
ej22 legacy, 95 - 98
ej22 impreza 95 - 98
ej18 impreza 93 - 97
you can NOT use an auto trans from an ej25 car.
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It was a new axle also, not a rebuilt.
this may be a misunderstanding.
if i install a used axle , i mibht refer to it as a ''new one'', since it is new to the car.
like wise a re-man axle COULD also referred to as a ''new one''.
plus, i had merchants auto replace an axle for me one time,
(i was in a hurry, it was my son's car)
i checked the box for ''return all parts''
and the final bill said NEW cv half shaft (napa).
i went into the shop and grabbed the old axle after paying the bill,
and i went home.
the shop manager called me 30 minutes later saying i had to return the old axle.
i told him i would, but i would then also call his regional manager and the BBB if i did.
he said keep the old part.
misunderstandings happen.
it is way more likely that the axle, left, right, or both, is bad
than the front diff is bad.
plus, i can't think of a bad diff situation that would cause a clicking sound.
usually a whirring sound.
if the diff has gear oil in it,
i would bet on an axle,
or maybe a backing plate on the wheel rubbing on the rotor.
they are easy to bump and bend when working in the area..
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i know there is one temp sender on the top front of the block between the
alt and P/S pump ( give or take ) where is the other one
that is the oil pressure sensor, not temp.
the temp sensors are in the crossover pipe under the intake manifold.
the 2 wire unit feeds the ECU.
also check the green diagnostic connectors under the dash.
do you have any trouble codes?
all vac hoses reconnected?
no open nipples on the intake or under it?
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If I just drain it and refill three times how much approximate fluid will I need?
depending on the engine, ej22 vs ej25,
the trans holds about 10.5 qt. of fluid.
a drain will net you about 3.5 qt. of ATF.. (maybe more, maybe less)
based on these numbers,
3 drain and fills, with driving in between each,
will replace about 80% of the old fluid.
ATF is one of the few fluids that can and will benefit from an 80% swap..
engine oil is not happy if you leave 20% in the engine.
but the trans fluid, (basically hydraulic fluid) does not care.
so do the trans fluid replacement,
and see what you get.
it cannot hurt.
TIP:
if you measure, or weigh the amount of fluid you ''drain'',
you will know EXACTLY how much to add.
and you will not need to question the ''hard to read dip stick''.
good luck.
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if you cannot get the key to turn,
you are probably going to have to replace the entire assembly.
a lock smith MAY be able to pick it and remove the cylinder.
or a bunch of silicone or graphite spray lube MAY free it up.
i assume you have a key that is supposed to work?
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The transmission codes do work via handshake on ODBII cars.
ok,
but i doubt it is the ''handshake'' for the 1st gen legos where you are required to press the ''power'' button.
since only 1st gens have a power button.
is the procedure below the one you used?
if not , what did procedure did you use?
00-04 How to Read AT Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) - Subaru Outback - Subaru Outback Forums
regardless,
an obd2 scanner will not read the TCU codes.
1999 power steering leak 2.2
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
there is a known problem with the 99 speedo.
and a pretty easy fix for the right person.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/112272-99-speedo-fix/
my steering pump leak was due to the o-ring in between the reservoir and the pump.
the proof was the puddle of steering fluid on top of the engine.
an easy fix, $2 part and 15 minutes.
the steering racks do not fail often,
that is why a used one , if needed, is such a good bet.
just be sure of the leak before you start spending money on parts.