johnceggleston
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Posts posted by johnceggleston
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cam and crank sprockets should not be an issue.
i don't think the 95 ej18 has a knock sensor,
i don't know how that relates.
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look here for parts:
remember you want 03 timing sprockets or gears.
you already have the 01 stuff.
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water pump gasket. I forgot to get gasket sealant.
what kind of gasket do you have?
i doubt that sealant is going to help the gasket.
either the gasket seals, or the sealant seals, but you don't need both.
usually sealant on a gasket just holds the gasket in place so you can bolt it up.
the belt looks old.
carry with you on your trip:
water and /or coolant on your trip.
hose clamps & duct tape, the combination can get you to a parts store.
tape it ans then clamp it .
go slow to a parts store.
2 qt. of oil,
a credit card,
and a AAA card, maybe.
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my 01 ej25 spun a rod bearing at 82k miles.
so it can happen.
but it happens less in the 90s ej22 than on other subarus or other cars.
ANY ej22 90 - 98 block will bolt under those heads.
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I'm not getting rid of my original engine I pulled (w/rod bearing knock) just in case I need the heads,
how sure are you that it was rod knock.
the new style tensioners will sound just like rod knock.
but i guess it does not matter now.
happy motoring!!!
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well,
regardless of the intake needing to be swapped,
the ej22 will not run in the 03 car as is.
the cam and crank sprockets MUST be swapped for the 03 sprockets..
where did you get the 01 ej22?
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i'm not sure the intake harness will plug in.
but i'm not sure it will not either.
plus i think the 03 needs EGR, or something.
but the 03 intake will bolt right on to your 01 heads.
if there is an EGR pipe that went from the 03 intake to the 03 head,
and since the 01 ej22 does not have EGR,
you can use the workaround to make the ECU happy.
it is if you need to have EGR.
and as gary said, swap the driver side cam sprocket and the crank sprocket.
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The heads are single port with solid lash adjusters so I should assume an interference engine....
yes, interference engine.
4S3BD435XV6209780this is the vin,
the V indicates it is a 97.
run a carfax on the vin and learn what you can.
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when the engine is off,
the rear wheels are not conne4cted to the main body of the trans.
so the trans main shafts and clutches are not turning,
only the rear output shaft and one side of the trans fer clutch are turning with the rear drive shaft.
the danger is that there is no lubrication for any bearing on the spinning parts unless the engine is running and turning the trans oil pump.
this would make the bearing on your rear output shaft at risk.
probably not the transfer clutch discs themselves. ????
i doubt 7 miles at 40mph was enough to burn up the bearing, but maybe.??
plus, when on the dolly,
more ATF moves to the rear of the trans.
that may help some.
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Can I use '97 Imp rear in '99 Leg. by adding the Imp. 22 spline inner cvs to my axles?
it all depends on the final drive ratios.
if neither car has the ej25,
and both cars have the same trans, auto vs. manual,
you should be able to swap the rear diff.
but, why?
what is wrong with the 99 rear diff.
and finally, i am completely unaware that they use different axles.
to the best of my knowledge,
the legacy and the impreza have always used the same axles, 95+. (excluding high end imprezas like the WRX.)
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i do not know why,
but i know they need to be.
it is specified by the factory engineers.
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Mid July my AC/heater switches (from low, medium, and medium high)
stopped working. So it would only blow air on high. Didn't really have
the money to get it checked out and wasn't going to worry about it until
it stopped blowing completely. (The actual blower motor was replaced
about 6 years ago with a new one.)
About 4-6 weeks ago I came outside to the parking lot at work and
could hear my radio playing. After working 12+ hours! Good battery thank
god my car started. So I've been taking the face off my aftermarket
stereo since then.
i'm not sure about the blower fan , but i think i remember it has to do with resisters in the fan it self,
but some one should know.
the radio is a likely cause of your current problem in my opinion.
after market radio installs oftwen cause problems,
like blown ''illumination modules''.
it seems yours just took some time to develop.
replacing the burnt unit without finding the cause could cause it to blow again, immediately.
you might consider adding ''comprehensive'' to your insurance policy if you DON'T find the cause.
if your car burns up you get paid.
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pull to the left when driving straight?
when braking?
front end alignment would be my starting point.
even before replacement axles.
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Is a (96 )2.5 dohc from a legacy with an automatic the same as a 99 dohc from an outback with a manual.
as mentioned,
yes, and no.
are the engines identical, no.
will they swap and run with no issues, yes,
with conditions.
like :
if swapping the 99 ej25 into the 96 car,
you will want ot use the 96 intake manifold on the 99 block to eliminate vac line issues.
likewise,
if swapping the 96 engine into a 99 car,
use the 99 intake manifold on the 96 long block.
it will save some headaches.
the charcoal canisters are in different locations and the manifold swap will eliminate any problems.
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The top hose is pretty darn hot.
The bottom hose is not.
you may have to drain the system down and refill correctly.
(not all of the following will apply to your situation.)
how to fill and burp your cooling system.taglines: burpcoolingsystem; suphonfill; burpcoolantsiphon.
compiled from previous posts:
PART 1>
1/ remove vent plug on radiator at top hose.
2/ fill radiator at fill neck / cap SLOWLY. (slowly is key.)
(i have written this a couple of times and it works great, for me. but
it is so odd and extreme i really don't expect any one to follow it. sit
the jug of coolant on the passenger strut tower and use a long tube,
about 1/4 inch diameter, to siphon the coolant in the rad. the process
is so slow you will get bored, but slow works in this situation. )
3/ when full install the vent plug and rad cap.
4/ start the engine and run it up to full operating temp. then shut it down and wait for it to cool down.
5/ open the rad and top it off. mine usually only takes a couple 3-4 oz.
(most folks run the engine with the rad cap off to burp
it. but i have found that when it burps it looses more coolant than it
really needs to so i just heat it up and then let it cool before i
open it. all you really want to do is circulate the coolant and
eliminate any air bubbles. the siphon is so slow it really does not
need much burping or topping off. this is different than most other fill and burp process. )
good luck.
PART 2>
the last 2 times i have filled an empty cooling system on an ej25 engine, i have used a very unusual method and have had NO problems and have not had to burp.
i put the gallon of coolant on top of the engine, either the passenger
strut tower or the air box near the firewall. i then use a small
diameter tube (~5/16 inch, inside diameter) to siphon the coolant out of
the jug and into the rad. (it helps if the tube is clear so you can
see the coolant as it gets close to your mouth.) after the jug is
empty, i then start over with a half jug (2 qts.).
this is a very slow process because of the size of the hose, but more so due to the very small difference in height. the system fills very slowly and has time to back fill
the engine thru the top rad hose. i make sure the rad cap is at least
level with or usually higher than the rest of the rad. having the vent
cap open helps too.
the first time i did it i tried to burp it but i ended up wit h less coolant in the system than when the siphon had finished. so this last time i just let the siphon do its thing and then put the cap on. no problems.
it works great, but it is really, really, slow. so i do it while i'm
finishing up the last little bits of whatever i'm working on.
this is so slow that if you did it and then watched it you would give up
and start pouring long before it got done. but it is a great time to
open a beer and admire your work.
i doubt this is a good technique for a car that needs to be burped, but it works great for filling empty systems.
HTH.
PART 3>
for 90s legacys, the small vent cap is the trick to filling correctly.
coolant WILL NOT flow into the upper rad hose / engine block unless you
have the vent plug removed. and even then you have to fill it SLOWLY.
once you have slowly added as much as it will take with the vent plug open, close that, fill to the top of the rad and start the engine. when the t-stat opens the coolant will burp out of the rad and the level will drop. (in most cases it will drop, but if you filled it slow enough the system MAY be full.) top it off and put on the cap.
(my solution to filling slowly is to siphon the coolant out of the jug
and into the rad. i use a 1/4''- 3/8'' clear tube about 10 feet long
that i bought years ago and i use it for all of my siphoning needs. it
fills the rad so slowly you get bored. but you can rotate tires or
change the oil while you wait. once it is full, mine will not burp. it is full.)
on a side note:
if you used a non-subaru t-stat you are going to have trouble.
they do not work and it will over heat. i know some of you do not want
to believe this but it is true. i was one of them for a long time.
there are several parts on these engines that MUST be subaru. and hopefully you do not damage anything learning that.
SOMETIMES, not very often, a ''high quality'' replacement part will
work, but ''cheap'' aftermarket parts are never a good solution for
these ''subaru only'' parts. they end up not working correctly and you
not only have to redo the work (twice the labor) you have to buy
another, usually more expensive, part. buying parts twice is never cost
effective, even if your labor is free.
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FYI,
if the front speed sensor, VSS2, is bad
you will not have AWD.
if the computer cannot compare front and rear speed sensors,
it cannot engage power to the rear.
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the 99 forester needs a 99 - 00 ej22
or a 00 - 04 ej25 SOHC.
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The AT Temp light only flashes after I attempt to retrieve AT codes through "secret handshake" method.
i don't think the handshake works on obd2 cars.
you have to gorund out a pin on a diagnostic connector under the dash.
it does not give me codes or anything at that time; but aftersitting when I return to the car it flashes rapidly...I have read that
this is a power supply or grounding issue code.)
drive the car as best you can, and then stop and restart it.
if the AT Temp light flashes 16 times,
it means there is a trouble code stored in the TCU.
the flashing indicates there was an electrical fault in the trans the LAST time it was driven.
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unless you like pulling things apart for fun,
you need to determine if the mechanics are working.
but as mentioned,
you will need both axles in.
but if you want to drive it,
you will need both axles in anyway.
even a torn boot clicking axle will work.
unplug the TCU
jack up one side of the car, both wheels front and rear.
shift the trans yo N.
start the car.
hand brake off.
mark both up tires in the same relative position.
rotate one up tire by hand.
the other up tire should rotate EXACTLy like the one you move.
if no, the transfer clutch is bad.
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the clue is you need a used trans.
check the fluid level?
if low, you can try adding some,
but i doubt it will help.
if full, buy a used trans.
do you have a ''check engine'' light?
do yo have a flashing AT Temp light at start up?
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this is not an easy swap.
and it will never be a CEL-free swap,
unless you swap the wiring harness and ECU.
just like a turbo swap.
auto vs. manual is way secondary to the phase 1 - 2 issue.
the 99 ej25 SOHC in the forester is a phase 2 engine.
the 97 ej22 is a phase 1 engine.
you can swap it and make it work,
but you will never get rid of the CEL.
so if you ever want ot resell the car,
or if you have to pass an inspection in your state,
do not swap.
details are available if needed.
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(i.e. can I swap a sensor from a '99 AT to my '97?)
this is a yes.
but i don't understand how you came to this conclusion.
The code I retrieve is for the output speed sensor circuit.what was the code Pxxxx number?
do you have a flashing AT Temp light at start up?
this would indicate an electronic problem in the trans.
if no. then look else where, like TPS.
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Could it be the spare tire fuze ?
it's only on the auto trans,
not on the manual trans,
the manual trans is completely mechanical,
no electronics at all..
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if the duty c fails, or the TCU for that matter, you should get a flashing AT Temp light at start up.
if you get the FWD light with the fuse in, the duty c should be working.
if no FWD light with the fuse in, the duty C is probably NOT working ,
and you should have a flashing AT Temp light at start up.
i have read of a few cases of TB , with no flashing AT Temp light,
and no improvement with the fuse in, regardless of the FWD light.
and in at least a few of these cases , fresh fluid , 3 gallons of it, helped.
the conclusion being that the gunk, stopped the duty c from working correctly,
but the electronics were still good.
i can not imagine that situation would last very long before the duty C failed altogether.
the trans holds about 10.5 qts. of ATF.
a 'drain and fill' will usually only replace about 3.5 qts.
so unless you have done 3 drain and fills,
you have not replaced most of the ATF.
so if there are no other indicators ,
i would replace ALL of the ATF before i started shopping for a trans.
good luck.
2001 EJ22 into a 2003 Legacy
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by johnceggleston
at some point around 01 - 02, subaru change the design of the sprockets they put on the engines.
i don't know why.
the sprockets trigger the cam and crank sensors,
and the computer MUST see the info it is looking for,
or the engine will not run.
so in short the sprockets must match the computer.
you need to swap the driver side cam sprocket,
and the crank sprocket.