johnceggleston

i think there is a way to blink / flash the abs codes, but i don't remember how. i'd try a search ''abs* codes'' or ''reading abs* codes''.

the cats, 2 of them?, are just after the y-pipe before the mid-pipe. the rest is just scrap iron or used parts. how much are the cars worth??

in earlier trans the final drive ratio is wrong. but if you do some research you may find that a trans from a turbo car will match, i'm not sure. in 99 they introduced the phase 2 trans in the outback, not sure about the imprezas. it may have been 00 , but they do not match, the wiring harness is different. the ej25 has a different final drive ratio. look under the ''train'' heading for the ring and pinion gear ratio. some one who knows the inner workings of an auto trans will have to answer that, but my guess is that it is not the solenoids that are failing.

also check www.car-part.com . their interchange software is good for most things. they show that you can use one from any legacy 90 - 99.

you might consider used knuckles, complete. and then replace the brake parts. if you have 15" wheels you can use outback or GT brakes, or probably some form of impreza high end unit. all of the knuckles are the same, ithink. maybe price knuckles shipped in from the sun / non-rust belt. www.car-part.com

links below with timing belt info. it is possible you used the wrong timing marks. it is a common mistake. good luck. > FOR TIMING BELT ARTICLES CLICK HERE > great timing belt pictures - click here

any one have any experience with a p1104 code, Engine Torque Control Signal Circuit Malfunction ??

are both sides different from stock or just one side?

it should as long as neither car has a 2.5L engine. your only concern is the final drive ratio. go to http://opposedforces.com/parts to confirm the ring gear a pinion ratio for each car. you may need the build date of the 95 car. i'm not as familiar with imprezas as i am with legacys. pre- 95 legos had differnt ratios than post 95 legos. i'm sure imprezas followed suit so double check the ratios. if the ratios are different, you can swap the rear diff as well and be good to go.

ej22 engine swap - p0441 & p1104 apparently it takes 2 drive cycles to throw these and in addition to the actual codes there are the same 2 pending. i have cleared them twice and both come back after 15 - 20 minutes of driving. i found a couple of threads i don't remember for which code. it sounds likely that one of the codes could be caused by a leaky hose , maybe. hopefully not an expensive fix, as long as i can find it. the haynes manual lists the 0441 as evap system incorrect purge flow. any one have any ideas? i installed a 95 ej22 w/ 125k into a 98 obw w/ 142k. i added the charcoal canister from the 95 to the 98 which has the canister in the rear. i hoped the addition wouldn't hurt. i thought it was easier than rigging a hose from the small to the larger metal lines the front canister connects to. i'm going to disconnect it and see if any thing changes. i'll report back in a bit. is it possible that one problem is causing both codes? any in put would be helpful.

there is a pretty good chance that the block is not cracked. these engines have a known head gasket issue. if the engine wasn't overheated and the bearings weren't cooked you could just replace the head gaskets and be good. but if you are worried that the previous owner tricked you and maybe cooked the bearings i would swap the engine. but you don't have to use the 2.5L , you can swap in a 95 2.2L engine. it is a straight swap. they cost less and are more reliable. look for an engine at www.car-part.com . you can probably also find a 2.5L engine there but any 2.5 has the potential for coming with bad head gaskets or blowing them in the future, beware.

you should be able to use an auto trans 95 - 98, maybe 99 from a ej22, ej18, impreza or legacy. stay away from the ej25. the phase 2 trans was introduced in '00, 99 for the outback, so you can't go past 99. i'm not as familiar with imprezas, but you can check your final drive ratio, ring and pinion part number and ratio, at http://opposedforces.com/parts .

i can not explain how the trans works, but i can testify that once reverse goes you are on borrowed time. something has caused a problem, wear, damage to the trans and it is not going to heal or fix it self. i drove mine like this for a few m0onths, being very very careful about where i parked. but i eventually found another auto trans. i guess there is a small chance that the fluid is low and a refill will correct it, but i don't think so if it was a temporary problem it would be affecting more than just reverse. i could not find any rhyme or reason to when reverse would work. start looking now for a trans. any legacy 95 - 99 auto 2.2L engine.

there is no filter for the 97 GT auto trans. there is an internal screen but you don't want to mess with that.. so don't. the drain plug with the torx / allen type insert is for the front differential, not the trans fluid. the trans fluid drain plug is on the pan further back. (unless yours is different than mine.) the fluid level on these can be difficult to read. make sure you check both sides of the dip stick. and the ATF dip stick is ~24 inches? long and on the driver side under the AC and heater hoses. the front diff dip stick is on the passenger side and it is only a few inches long. and no it is not recommended to over fill it, but double check the level. congrats on the head gasket job.

true, and when driving at 60 mph and your belt fails there is a really good chance that the valves will collide with each other. but sitting on jack stands and removing the belt i would think the the cams / valves take the path of lease resistance, closing. it is hard for me to imagine a situation where one is opening and the other is closing when the car is sitting still. but i have very limited experience and understanding.

no no no . that only works if the engine is running. the damage caused by towing with 2 up and 2 down is you burn up a bearing in the rear of the trans. there is no lubrication unless the trans oil pump is moving the fluid. it is not like a manual trans where all of the moving parts a bathed in the gear oil.

ditto!! how far are you going? it's a pain to disconnect for a short trip. and if your tow vehicle is big enough you can rent a trailer for another 20 - 30? bucks.

in VA if the light is not required by law you can remove it. but if the light is mounted on the car it has to work. so if your truck came with 2 plate lights and one fails / rusts you can remove it instead of repairing it. as long as the other one works.

thanks, let me know what you need for the tube. i checked the part numbers, it looks like the ej22 and the ej25 use the same one.

so i put the ej22 in the 98 outback. bolt everything up, and fire it up. woohoo, it runs. but it has an exhaust leak. i track it down to the driver side manifold gasket so i pick up a replacement and stick it in. still has an exhaust leak. so i look harder. I FOUND IT. i don't know what you call it, but the 'staple' shaped tube that comes off of the intake (EGR?) and goes down in to the rear of the head, driver side, IS MISSING. i can't believe i didn't catch it before i put the motor in but i didn't. the engine came from the salvage yard without it. lucky for me my parts car has one. tightening the bottom threads with the engine in the car was a real beetch. a shorter wrench would have been nice. but i got it, at least enough to make it quiet. we'll see. but here's the question. i have been letting the car idle for 30 - 40 minutes a day for several days to loosen up any sticky valves and stuff. but it never threw a code, even with the open exhaust in the head and the open whatever in the intake. what's up? more info please. and can i just cap / plug the 2 openings in the parts engine when i rework it. (if so what size plug?) i mean if it won't throw a code why not??? or would it throw a code at speed?? if i can't just plug the holes, does any one have a tube they can spare?? thanks

if the belts are making noise, you should be able to run it for a little while with out the belts. too long and you will drain the battery, but if the lights, fan, radio are all off you'll be ok for a while. maybe enough to hear the other sounds. ditto on the open hose somewhere.

if the rear wheels are in the air and the hand brake is OFF, it should turn freely. no fluid pressure , no rear wheel engagement. i was wondering if the drive shaft was catching on the rear shaft seal?? maybe something in the seal moved, failed. measure how far the shaft will go in, and see if it is the same depth as the shaft seal.

how many miles?? the 98 ej22 is almost the same engine as the 90 - 96 non-interference engine, ALMOST. it is an interference engine and if the t-belt fails you will need a head job, $$$. BUT if you change the t-belt, water pump and all the idlers including the tension idler, as scheduled, you don't have much to worry about. i think the 98 is still on a 60k belt interval. so do the math on the miles. ask the seller, and use your best judgment. if the seller has service receipts for a recent belt change you should be good. but if the shop only did the belt, not the idlers, you could be in for trouble. it is very hard to know unless the bill lists all the parts used. when these engines get over 120k - 150k miles it is not unusual for them to start leaking oil. replacing all front seals, 2 cam shaft, 1 crank shaft, 1 oil pump o-ring, 2 cam cap o-rings, will correct this and is usually done with the timing belt. the only way to be sure is to do the belt your self, or have it done, ~$600 - $800. depending who you use. drive it in tight circles at idle speed. see if it jumps, binds or chirps. this could be torque bind. repairable but it will cost you, $$$. fairly rare in 5 speeds, but it can happen, especially if it was driven with mis-matched tires. i saw the ad, it sounds like a good car, depending on the miles.

you will have to remove the crank pulley to see the key way. if the key way is at 6 o'clock the pistons are out of the way and you have no worries. the cams and valves may jump when you remove the belt, especially the driver side, but with the pistons out of the way you shouldn't have any trouble. if the valves always jump they will go to the closed, safe, position.

didn't you just go through this a bit ago?? with 3 kids i think i'd lock them in a room with one set of keys and tell them the last one standing gets a car, the other two are on their own. my condolences. oh yeah, if you are going to have a fleet of cars it would be best to have them all the same make, model and year group. that way one parts car will serve them all. it sounds like you should have a parts car, or two.