johnceggleston

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/ECU_connectors_1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/ECU_connectors_2.jpg

you should still be able to use the starter bump method for removal even if the belt is off. if the valves are all closed, just bump the starter. but my favorite is thehole on the side of the engine bell housing. slip in a stout screwdriver and rotate the crank until the driver catches on a flex plate bolt. it works great, you just have to look for the hole. knowing it is there helps.

check your cv boots, although they usually stink pretty good.

IF you use the correct timing marks, the hash marks, NEVER the arrows or dots or whatever, you will be good. turn the crank by hand until the hash marks are up and then remove the belt. you'll be good. link to pics in my signature below. replace everything, idlers, water pump, seals, cam cap o-rings everything.

the outback trans which has a larger torque converter, is 9 point something, the TC is the only difference.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru you are looking for green connectors or black connectors, not wires. they should be under the dash to the right of the steering column. if they have never been used they may be taped up in a wire bundle. josh's site will help, look around there for info. look for 'notes and tips' then 'engine related'.

you can use 95 - 98 ej22 as long as it has egr, typically an auto trans car. but 95 is your best choice. 96 -98 will require the exhaust y-pipe from the donor car. you can probably pick up heads from a bad gasket car for less than an ej22. then it is just a gasket / timing job. did the idler damage the block?

i would agree, assuming the fluid level is ok.

nope. 99 was the intro of phase 2, which only lasted 3 years in the US before they discontinued the ej22, here. the 97 - 98 lgoe ej22 does not have plug holes through the valve cover. looking at a 97 ej22 you can't tell it, at least i can't, without a lot of studying, if it is 96 or 97. in 99 the intake changed to use the same one that the ej25 used.

or put in the FWD fuse to see if it is rear related.

i thought the ej22s were all the same in 97 -98. tweaked with new pistons a little higher horse power and interference 9due to yhe pistons). not the phase 2 ej22 that came out in 99, but not the non-interference engine of 95 - 96.

some people are just easy to please.

this shows it is a 4.11 ratio. it also shows an exploded view for a better understanding of how it fits together. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/train/differential_individual/illustration_2/ i don't know where you are located, but i'd try to sell the one you have and use the money to buy the one you need. of course shipping it the pit$$.

after thought: where did you get the h6 rear diff? why not just get one that matches. outbacks starting in 00 or 01 all came with a VLSD and GTs by 03. you can get one for 150$ easy and just bolt it in. www.car-part.com the above web site refers to them as "locking" but as stated above they are really a viscous limited slip.

read lmdew 's current thread on swapping gen 1 and gen 2 trans. very helpful to this question. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116468

I THINK, if they are both auto trans or both 5 speeds the final drive ratios will match, 4.44 auto, 4.11 5speed, just swap in the rear diff. if they are not both the same the ratios will not match and you will have to swap the guts. remove the open carrier and swap in the viscous guts. i don't know for sure but the basics are pretty simple. it is the fine tuning, the shims?, adjustments? that may be tricky. but i don't even know if it will get out of adjustment during the process. some one else will though. EDIT: see next post, apparently the ratios are different.

i have never touched a subaru manual window crank, but in most cars there is a spring clip behind the crank handle. if you slide the clip towards the end you grab it will release the handle. hope this helps.

any advantage to adding some special purple / red/ synthetic/ special blend?? i don't really know what i'm asking but i have heard stories of some "better" oil making old 5 speeds quieter and smoother so i was just wondering.

the final drive ratios are different , i think, 95 = 4.11 i'm sure. the 93 non-turbo = 3.9 i think. so swap both the trans and the rear diff. i don't think you will need the TCU, but since you have it , hang on to it. the circuit boards should be the same but the housings may be slightly different. the bracket and bolt hole may be different. (95 to 96 is different but the boards work so i just swapped the boards in the housings.) but i don't think you will need it. drive it and see. oh, the 95 will have a speed sensor on the trans, remove it and the insides should accept the speedo cable on the 93. or so i've heard.

well the general rule of thumb is to use an engine from your "model year group". this would be 00 - 04. there may be some small differences in thoise years, but it isn't anything you can't over come with parts from your old engine. example, you ma need to swap the cam and crank sprockets to match your ECU but that is no big deal. you can also probably use impreza engines. they quit using the 2.2L engine in 01 so all the ones in your year and a couple of years earlier, are going to be a match, or close enough that you can over come it. i wouldn't go to 05 unless some tells you for sure it will work. i just don't know. but you can get 00 - 04 to work, avoid turbos unless yours is one.

there is a great thread, well it used to be great when the pics were available, any way the write up is good and if you have done other cars you will be ok. search "torqueconverter" and read the oldest thread you see. if you can observe the bottom, underside, of the trans / torque converter, if it isn't hidden by the cross member, when the TC is seated there is ALMOST no clearance between the two. if there is any gap at all it is not seated. i wish i could be more precise. the bolt ears on the TC have more than half inside of the trans bell housing, probably closer to 3/4 inside and 1/4 outside. the other clue is , if the engine does not mate completely with the trans bell housing you did not fully seat the TC. do not use the trans bolts to pull the engine and trans together, that is a trans killer.

kbb is a seller's blue book. look it up at www.edmunds.com that would be my target price. but to get it for that you have to start lower. if you are hooked on the car then you are going to pay more for it. but if it meets your criteria and you want a deal you can't be emotionally involved. you have to be willing to walk away. you can always go back. lots of cars will do the job you need it to do. but in my humble opinion, cars are tools to do a job, not investments or status symbols. but that didn't keep me from wanting and buying an outback instead of a dumb ol' plain jane legacy. having said that, the price and miles combined are not a terrible deal, in my opinion. a little more than i would want to pay but not terrible. there is a timing belt in the near future, 105k miles or months, next year? so you can use that, and anything else that is not perfect. look on ebay or craigslist and find similar cars for the price you want or less. good luck.

i have had the same thought, but when i had a nail in my right rear tire and it got way low on pressure before i noticed it i could feel a difference. minor torque bind. and if it is binding then it is wearing the drive train. so it matters. however, if you do have 2 pairs of matching tires you are better off putting the different sizes on different sides of the car. this will help. but there is no cure for one odd size tire except the FWD fuse. and that is not recommended.

when you get around to pulling the engine be sure to look and see what failed, belt, idler or what and let us know what happened. who did the belt a 105k?? shop, dealer, you?

www.car-part.com is a good source. 2000 Engine Subaru Impreza 2.2, 6 MONTH WARRANTY, ATOD, AWD price $600 Henderson Foreign Auto Parts USA-PA(Scottdale) Request_Quote 1-724-887-8700 Request_Insurance_Quote 2000 Engine Subaru Impreza L, 2.2, ATOD, AWD, price $500 Carlisle Auto & Truck Salvage,Inc USA-PA(Carlisle) Request_Quote 717-238-1500 / 717-766-0579 Request_Insurance_Quote below is a copy of an august 19 ad on cgraigslist- roanoke, va. it probably long gone and the ad has expired but it maybe worth a phone call. 1999 subaru impreza motor/trans (martinsville) $600 from parts in roanoke, VA 1999 subaru motor and transmission 130k.....phone 276-358-2222....will not respond to email