johnceggleston

they are the same.

it may have been covered in one of the links, i didn't read them, but to read the trans codes for a 98 you have to ground out pin #5 on the black connector, b82, under the dash at or to the right of the steering column. the jump down, spin around, put you right foot, put you right foot out, do the hokie pokie, procedure is for cars with a power or manual button, ie: 90 - 94.

thanks for the feedback. i'm going to have it welded tomorrow. the 96 cat/s are a different design, 2 o2s in the front cat and nothing in the rear. i wouldn't think that would be a big deal to a 98 ecu but i don't really know. but the 96 also has the rear flange at the donut rusted off and the bung for the front o2 popped out when i was trying to remove it. so, rusted off flange and missing bung, are these also repairable.?? i hate to scrap the cats, they only pay 10$ each for them around here, i checked.

does it have a turbo??

i'm working on an ej22 swap into a 98 outback. and the pipe in front of the rear cat has snapped of of the cat at the weld. they fit back together and i hope to find a shop to re-weld it. i assume this is doable? i also have a 96 lego 2.2L for parts and went in to pull the cats today to possibly use on the 98 obw. but it too has the pipe separated from the rear cat. (it also has both o2 sensors in the front cat so i'm not sure i could actually use any of it for the 98.) but i'm wondering if the cat to pipe weld is a common failure point, or is common only on aftermarket cats? or is it something i did while transporting them and off loading them? or is this just coincidence?

first of all, you are NOT looking for top dead center. you want to put the crank timing mark at the 12 oclock position, the keyway for the crank pulley will be straight down, in the 6 oclock position. if your current timing is correct, this will put your cam sprockets in the correct position, hash marks at the 12 oclock position. i have links in my signature below for an article about changing the timing belt and a series of pics for a single cam engine. read up on the procedure. using the wrong timing marks will DAMAGE your engine / valves. PS: you cannot see the crank timing mark with the pulley installed.

initially, the outback was a "trim" level of the legacy, like the L or LS was a "trim". all of the legacys got the legacy label but then some got L, LS, GT or outback. holes for the things all cars got, adhesive only for the stuff some cars got. aslo in 95 - 96 some got AWD and some did not.

my 95 has 2 o2 sensors. they are the same part number, i think, but there are 2 of them. i would be surprised if the exhaust is dramatically different between the 2 years. after market is a possibility. you can look up part numbers with the link below to see if they are different for different years. the primary difference 95 - 96 ej22 is the single vs. dual port exhaust. http://opposedforces.com/parts i just bought the exhaust donut for a 97 obw at both the dealer and advance auto. i got it from the dealer first assuming i could not get it at advance. the one from advance is smaller, less meaty, but same inside diameter. dealer was 11$ advance was 5$.

you will need it in N in order to turn the engine over so you can reach all 4 torque converter bolts. be careful that the car is secure and well blocked before you put it in N. you don't want it moving. the car should be on jack stands. i have found that the job is easier with the left front wheel removed so you can get to the lower trans to engine bolt on that side. be safe.

no , no , no , the car is priced as though everything is in good working order, if you find a problem and it needs to be repaired they do not get to raise the sale price. as a matter of fact, you can demand that they provide you with a 3rd party warranty agreement. they do not cost much and they MAY give you some reassurance as a buyer. i do not personally have a lot of confidence in them but it is an option. i would also not hesitate one bit in bargaining the price down based on "what ifs". this is a used car, the listed price is not what they expect to sell it for, and you can walk away when ever you are not satisfied with the process, much less the price. my guess is they will not let you get to the door before they call you back and offer you a different deal. and then you can ask for something more. it is not immoral or illegal and should not be embarrassing to change your mind on a car deal and say "sorry". of course, if they do not call you back, you will have to make it up to your wife. used car purchase example: my wife bought a used car from a dealer, and paid more than i thought she should, but it appeared to be a done deal and she wanted the car, a 97 toyota avalon w/64k miles for $13K back in 02? or so. when we went in to sign the paper work the salesman asked " what do i need to do to make this deal". we had already agreed to the price in our minds but he was offering us another opportunity to make the deal. i should have stopped and re-considered the deal. i could have gotten more out of them, either less money or more "stuff". live and learn. if this car is a desireable item, it will go pretty fast, if not it will sit. it is also ok to walk away from the deal on monday, and come back on thursday and accept it. nobody is looking over your shoulder and judging you. go back and negotiate the deal without your wife, maybe. EDIT: by my 150 rule, it is not a bad deal. 87.5k miles ....................................................... plus 65 hundred dollars ...................................................equals 152.5 but my 150 rule does not take into account how old the car is. my rule also assumes that you will be able to drive the car 65K miles with out major repair. maintenance is expected, brakes, tires, axles, oil changes etc. but not trans rebuilds or head gaskets and such. i bet they will throw in a timing belt and idler change without batting an eye, but they will ask you to sign an agreement to buy the car if they "throw it in". sign it, just don't give them any money. you can still walk away. when they ask you to sign here if they do the work, tell them they are getting closer. my 150 rule is mostly good for comparing cars of similar years and miles, which is better / cheaper. (cars less than 1000$ do not fall under the 150 rule.)

i would think that the likelyhood is pretty high that that the leak is at the donut gasket. they are not expensive, but regardless of where the leak is located, you will probably need bolts to put it back together. most of this stuff is available at your local advance auto parts store. i can't find the stuff online at the website but if you deal with a knowledgeable parts person, they probably do have it in stock. spring bolt kits are 8-9$, donut gaskets ~5$, flange mid-pipe gaskets are ~2$.

i don't know if this is average or not, but over the last 16 years, my wife, son and i have driven 275k miles on 5 subarus (93 - 97 legacys & outbacks) with only 2 tows. one was a trans and the second was my son's bad battery connections. (other miles on a nissan and a toyota.) average?

larry, thanks for the input. i finally got back to the car today, swapped the ECU and it fired right up. it looked looks the carpet has gotten wet and there was some corrosion on the old ecu, but it runs and i'm happy. thanks again, john

i don'rt want to kill a sale, but i would suggest new parts, not used, for this. these guys on ebay are good, belt and idlers for 72$, with water pump for 125$: "theimportexperts" : http://motors.shop.ebay.com/theimportexperts/m.html?_nkw=subaru+kit+1990&_sacat=&_odkw=&_osacat=0&bkBtn=&_trksid=p3911.m270.l1313 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-SUBARU-LEGACY-IMPREZA-2-2-TIMING-BELT-KIT-/370426267783?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru|Year%3A1990&hash=item563f204887 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-2-2-Timing-Belt-Kit-/300461661165?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f4e91bed

i better go read some of my links.

updated links: Thread discussing crank bolt removal: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48091 Timing belt info, especially useful to those who might not have done it before: Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5: http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf 2.5 Liter DOHC timing belt: http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf EDIT: Thread discussing t-belt/idler/tensioner kits: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=95187

yes. what timing marks did you use? never use the arrows. check out the pics and articles below. > FOR TIMING BELT ARTICLES - CLICK HERE > great timing belt pictures - click here

they may have done that in 95 or whenever, but at some point dayco got different specs for the cali belt, or they would be doing the same thing, saving a few cents / dollars per belt.

sitll true. dayco #95172 - 60k belt is $42, all but one store has it in stock. dayco #95254 - 105k is $28, only one store has it in stock.

i have not compared the belts side by side, but 3 years ago when i was in advance auto trying to buy one, i didn't by the way, they had the fed belt in stock and the cal belt had to be ordered, guess which one was cheaper, the cal belt. go figure. of course that might have been just that store..... think about it this way, if they had just changed the specification on the belt and not redesigned it, once there was an interference ej22 there would have been a lot of bent valves if the belt would not go 105k. and if it would go 105k, why wait for cali to demand the longer life. the cali demand probably precipitated the 105k belt in the ej25 world wide. why stock 2 belts?

early legacys had a timing belt schedule of 60k months / miles. so you have some time / miles yet. at some point they changed the belt design and the schedule to 105k months / miles. i don't really know when the change took place but i suspect it was later than 97, probably 99 with the introduction of the phase 2 2.2L engine. but someone would have to confirm that. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html#90-99maintenance looks like it was in 2000, which makes no sense, the 99 lego 2.2L is the same as the 00 impreza 2.2L . it must have been easier to alter the schedule with the new decade. unless you have a california car, their schedule was the 105k.

i started to remove my hub last weekend and i was frustrated by the lower ball joint. but while messing with it i learned that the threads on the castle nut are the same as the lug nuts. so would it be helpful to thread a spare lug nut on the ball joint and place a jack under it and then beat down on it?? just wondering?? anything to make it easier. i know from banging nails into wood, if the piece of wood vibrates or wiggles it is really hard to drive the nail in, more than twice as hard. but if the wood is on a firm surface it it goes in easy.

what CEL do you have? is the exhaust rattle only when you tap on it or when you are driving? how many miles? i looked in a subaru rear cat recently for the first time ever (the pipe broke off and i got to see the inside) and i was surprised. there was nothing in there except a screen. probably a very hi-tech screen but thats all. nothing to "send back" to the muffler. my point is, cats can go bad, but subie cats, not very often. lots of cars have 250k with original cats. lots of things will fail emmissions test, bad cats is just one of them. almost any? CEL will fail you. and depending on the CEL, it may not be cats at all. more info please.

are you sure you want to buy a car from SCAM-ME-ll auto sales??

ok, i like this idea, i like anti-seize, but is it a good / better lube for brake slide pins?? i hope so, i'm tired of buying individual packs of hi-temp brake lube, what a rip off. fyi: on a side note for subie brake rookies, on some brake calipers, outbacks and GT fronts from the late 90s, the slide pins are actually tubes. i lubed the hell out of the inside of the tube and saw no improvement. it turns out that the caliper slides on the outside of the tube, the blot is on the inside and the tube doesn't really slide on that. so lube the outside of the tube not just the inside. on the lego rears one slide pin is actually the bolt and the other is a pin, no tubes. i guess this would be a surprise only for people like me who learned on rear lego brakes first and then tackled outback fronts. if there are errors in this let me know, i'll edit or delete.