johnceggleston

i looked at the opposedforces.com/parts parts site for forester SOHC engines and it indicates that the auto trans got them and the manual trans did not.

set up the car so it is doing the wrong thing, use a stick or brick to push on the brake pedal. then pull the rear light bulbs until something changes. if it is a bulb you will find it. it you don't find it then it's a wire.

yes but you don't have to. it is easier to switch the other way. once you get the trans on the floor side by side you will see what you have to do. it's not hard.

we call that the virgin switch.

yes, screws inside the ashtray compartment, 2 i think on the front edge ceiling / top. and you have to remove the cup slide holder tray and bracket. i think that's it.

does it do it continuously or or just when you start moving? maybe the rear trans mount or drive shaft universal ??

my 97 GT came with both the seat connections and the switch connections. not sure about the relay and other stuff.remove the 2 screws at the center console latch and pop out the panel around the hand brake. if you have wires ans maybe a blue connector in there you probably have the wiring for heated seats. it is my opinion that if the option was offered at the factory in a specific year and model then the wiring is there. for instance, heated seats was an option in 97 GT but not in the 96 lego. so my GT has the wiring but the 96 parts car i have does not.

i wish i could justify the money right now. 1" lift for legacys, this includes outback. http://www.subtle-solutions.com/product_info.php?products_id=107&osCsid=c591d4acde04fad58fbb010eb8aa74ce

+1, i'm with gloyale get a legacy, 95- or 96, and add the struts. you'll have a more economical final drive ratio than the outback. if you are climbing hills or towing get a GT or outback with bad head gaskets. the GT already has the outback final drive and you can put the struts on it as well. adding outback size tires will, in effect, give you an outback setup. i am amazed at how desirable the outbacks are as opposed to a regular lego. i'm guilty of this myself. but for 200$ used or 300$ new, you can lift any legacy to the outback height, maybe higher, and the rest is mostly paint and plastic. but outbacks do look good.

as long as they are both SOHC they will swap. but some engines 00 - 04 had slight differences so hang on to your cam and crank sprockets until you get it running. was your 01 a head gasket / overheating engine??

maybe the engine supplier / rebuilder will let you trade?? i would think there is greater demand for the DOHC engine.

double check to see if it does it all the time backing up or only when turning and backing. see if it does it when turning tight, all the way to the right or left, slow circles, at idle speed while going forward. what i'm looking for is torque bind. if not that then maybe a bad trans mount.

i can't imagine the 'small' side, driver side of the tank only holds 2 gal. but not drawing fuel from both side does come to mind. maybe there is a hole in the "suck up" tube on one side that defeats the actual pick up.

you need the TC and the flex plate off a 96 - 98, 2.5L engine, outback, GT or LSi. the flex must match the TC. the flax plate will be easy, almost any one who has done a 2.2 swap has one on the wall. the TC may cost you. did you look here?? http://www.car-part.com

drilling clockwis from the back, if / when the the bit grabs it will thread the bolt back the way it came in. you can do the same thing from the front if you have left handed dill bits.

if you have to use it, pull it out of the trans, set it nose down and drill out the busted bolts from the back side. use lots of pblaster to loosen them up and a dril bit smaller than the shaft of the bolt. you can always use a bigger bit and just drill out the whole thing and re tap it . but if drilling the bolt causes it to spin out, all the better. thats what you really want, no tapping then. re-seating the TC is not hard if you know you need to do it. it the folks who do not know they need to go an extra bit who screw up. and check it's position before you pull it in the first place so you will have a reference point. maybe mark it. keep at it, you are getting close now.

it will be quicker and easier to use the flex plate and TC from the other engine/ trans. especially since you have them already. you can address the busted bolts when you need to, if you ever need to. these are legos, they snap together.

the trans code numbers in the chart are / should be accurate, but when you are searching online for a trans everyone is going to identify it by year and model, not trans number. http://www.car-part,com may help. the only outbacks in the 90s that had a 3.9 were the 95s which still had the 2.2L engine. i do not know what happened in '00 , that's not my decade. but the rule of thumb for 5 speed swaps is "any 5 speed will fit and work as long as it has the right final drive". since you are looking to change your FD i would not limit your search to 95 - 99. review the chart and find the gears you want and then go looking for the car and year you need. i wouldn't go newer than 04 without more research just to be sure it will work. there are some push and some pull clutches, but the housings have the ability to be either with very little effort, so find what you are looking for.

so who is on the bench ready to go in????

in auto trans in the late 90s the 7th character is the final drive ratio indicator, if it is a 2 then it is a 4.44 final drive. but the manual trans are not that consistent, and i can not find any pattern to them. so you are going to have to go off of which car the trans / diff came from. a 2,5L car will have the 4.44 final drive and the 2,2L cars will have the 3.9 final drive. you can check this against the chart for confirmation.

thte dash lights sounds like you have a back feed going on when you press the brake pedal. the power to the brake light element is jumping to the the tail? light element and powering up the dash lights??? is this even possible??

chances are pretty good that your headlight problem is the socket. they get old a crack. the one on my 95 was so bad it i was calling it sparky before i changed it. i had planned on using one from my donor parts car, but ended up fixing while at the beach. 3$ generic part from advance auto and some butt connectors. it's not often you get both cheap and easy on car repair. congrats on the daily driver.

ok, i still don't see how it moved, but what ever. the flex plate matches the TC, 2.5s are larger than 2.2s. either one will bolt on to either engine. so just make sure you get the one you need. the trans in the picture is a 95 2.2L auto trans. what car / trans are you working with?? and in case i haven't already said it, make sure you correctly seat the TC before you bolt up the trans to the engine.

the 4 bolts you show in the torque converter are supposed to bolt it onto the flex plate which you show in the second pic. the flex plate is bolted on to the crank with 8 bolts. there are no bolts holding the TC on to the trans. i find it hard to believe that you can drive an auto trans engine without the flex and TC bolted together. but who knows. tell me again why you are swapping the trans??? maybe if you put in the bolts you don't need a trans???? did i miss read this?? what's going on.????

the speedo gets it's info from the front speed sensor, located as mentioned above. it is referred to in the parts catalogs as "VSS 2". vss1 is on the rear of the trans. there are 2 typical failure modes, asuming it is not the speedo itself. 1. the vss is bad or a wiring connector is bad so the speedo is not getting any info. 2. the speedo / vss2 drive gears in the trans are bad and the vss is not getting in rotational input from the trans. one or both of the following should isolate your problem. jack up the right front wheel, put the car in 'N', remove the VSS2 and gently insert a thin shaft flat screwdriver into the vss hole. you need to find the slot the vss fits into and get the screwdrivwer to mate with it. then turn the wheel by hand and see if the screwdriver turns as well. this will show you if the drive grears are good. or remove the VSS2 and fashion the tab on the end into an electric drill. be gentle you do not want ot booger it. then with the car on or running in "P" run the drill about 700 - 800 rpms or less. (if the drill goes 3400 rpm do about a quarter of that.) this should approximate 60 mph or so, slower is ok too. check to see if the speedo moves. there is chance, i don't really know if there is a ground wire on the vss, there is achance that the vss will not make the speedo move unless it is grounded. in this case you will have to use a multimeter to see if it is makinfg an electrical signal. good luck.