johnceggleston

some folks have had bad luck with off brand reman axles. those folks believe only subaru. so either reboot the one you have or have it rebuilt by a reputable outfit. google colorado rebuilders, ccr engines. they have a link on their site for a reportedly good axle re-builder, mwe i think. buying a used subaru axle and rebooting it is another option. but if your boot just tore the axle is still good, it's better than most remans. rebooting is messy, but not difficult. assuming you can get the axle out of the hub. and there you have it, one of the problems folks have with off brand reman axles.

were the rotors new 6 months ago?? is it possible the wear patter was there before and the old rotors have worn the new pads??

consider putting new shoes in there for the hand brake. i don't know what they cost but it can't be too much. you may have to loosen the cable at the lever to make room for them. but of course, they shouldn't get a lot of wear unless you've been letting my wife drive your car. sometimes she can't get the brake off so she drives with it on.

99 was an odd duck year as far as an auto trans goes. basically it was a 00 - 04 auto trans which is different from 95 - 98. if the trans code number starts with TZ102Z2..... then it will take a 96 - 98 trans, not many 99 did. but having said that, your best, easiest solution is to find someone who has wrecked, rolled over, their 99 outback and sell them the whole thing for $300. then you're done.

i have heard / read if you have a stuck exhaust valve, you can have the engine sucking air in through the exhaust. this will give you an unusual exhaust sound. hold a sheet of paper over the exhaust pipe while it is making the sound and see if it occasionally sucks in instead of always blowing out. maybe.

even at maximum demand, the transfer clutch allows for enough slip between front and rear to avoid torque bind. when the switch is installed and activated there is no slip. the front and rear wheels turn exactly the same like a welded rear differential. this causes torque bind unless you are on snow, ice, gravel, sand or the like. did you read these: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50264 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69794&highlight=duty%2C+switch%2C+locked%2C http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65716&highlight=duty+solenoid

search for words like "duty, switch, locked, install, 4wd*,tcu*, ..." i'll think of some others. (the instructions talk about switching the wire that goes to the duty c through the main trans wire connector at the rear of the engine. but the wiring will be easier if you cut and switch the wire at the TCU under the dash.) be sure to read a lot of the threads not just the one telling you how to do it. there is a potential down side to this mod, i think, especially if you forget and leave it on all the time.

the crank shaft seal is mounted in the oli pump which is bolted on to the block and the crank shaft extends out through the middle of it. so yes, you can replace the crank seal without pulling the oil pmp. but why would you?? you have to remove the timing belt (and compress the tensioner for re-install) to do the crank seal so you might as well do all you can while you are in there, especially considereing that the pump o-ring is under a dollar at the dealer and a tube of ultra gray is under 6$ (?) at the parts store. it will take less than an hour to clean up, tighten the backing plate screws and re-seat the oil pump. the oil could also be coming from the cam seals, but you will not know until you remove the timing covers. again the same argument applies, spend a few $$ on seals and another hour and do them as well. that way when you put it back together you will not have to remove it again until the belt or an idler breaks. replace them and the water pump and you are good for 60k miles. other leaks can be addressed without removing the timing belt.

search "torqueconverter", read the oldest thread.

grab a new belt while you are there, if it breaks while doing the swap you'll need it.

unbolt the engine and move it away from the trans a little. then unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter (with the engine moved out a bit it should free up and turn so you can get to all 4 bolts). remove the engine. at this point you have a decison to make., throw away the trans and get a used one or re-install it and see if it is busted. i vote for re-install since your labor is free and matb something else made it bind up, not the fluid pump in the trans. seat the torque converter correctly (it would be nice if there was a test you could do to see if it is busted but i don't know of any other than to spin the TC and see if you can feel or hear any "broken" parts.) and then re-install the the engine and bolt it to the trans. now install the flex plate / TC bolts. hook it up and start it up. good luck. and keep us informed.

bumped fpr easier reading.

search "diffcheck", read the oldest.

http://www.car-part.com i don't know if they can or will ship to where you are but that's the site. but first post an ad in the parts wanted section of the classifieds here at usmb. some one is bound to have one on the shelf. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37

auto chek is a competitor of carfax. so as long as it does not show, accidents, speedo rollback, 'used as a taxi' or the like, you are probably ok. i met a dad at boy scouts who owns the local chevy and chrysler dealerships. he says he pays a huge amount of money to carfax every year. he said "when a customer asks for a carfax, you have to give it to them. if you do not, it looks like you are hiding something." and if you give them another brand you have to sell them on the validity of that service as well. carfax got it right. convince the public of the value of the product and that forces the car dealers to buy the service. back to the car at hand, it might be interesting to know how long the car has been on the lot. it would also be good to know what your "mechanic" would charge for the repairs. some you may not do, but after you get the car, especially if you have spent all of your money, it may not be easy to pay for any of the needed repairs. lots of us are embarrassed to make a 'low ball' offer on a dealer's car. but if you do, the worst thing that can happen is they say no. the second worst thing that can happen is that they say yes. if they say yes too quickly, maybe you could have done better. but in the final analysis if you like the car and are good with the price then the deal is good for you. the simple truth of the matter is, there is always another bargain out there.

she's here, email her, there is a link at the bottom of their parts page: https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/catalogs.html also known as, Chaplins Subaru 15000 SE Eastgate Way Bellevue, WA 98007 her name is jamie and on the board she's subie gal or girl or something like that.

i use old seat belts as a sling / strap to lift instead of a chain, and thread it under the intake being careful not to catch any other stuff. works great .

so, what questions should i ask when looking for a shop to work on my 98 obw heads?? the belt broke so i'm looking at valves, actually it was the passenger intake cam sprocket that broke. i have donor heads that have been over heated, would they be a better choice?? does it matter? i have never dealt with a machine shop so i'm going to be at their mercy, sort of. thanks,

if he's hounding you, offer 2k less than asking price and then, when he counter offers, walk away. see if he hounds you then.. also , make them prove that the timing belt has been done, or reduce the price by 1000$ - 600$

regarding financing, dealers offer it but my experience has been that the rate is not very good. i would check with a bank or a credit union. you may find a better deal. and then you can negotiata a cash price instead of a "how much do you want to spend a month??'' price. even if you plan on financing it at the dealer, tell them it will be a cash deal until you have settled on a price. then ask about financing. also you can check these pricing websites: for sellers: www.kbb.com for buyers: www.edmunds.com and finally, when they turn down your offer, tell them you are going down the street to look at someone else's car and walk away.

try a salvage yard. 25$ if they keep them around.

very weird. did you check the diagnostic plugs under the dash?? i know they can cause trouble, but i don't remember just what kind.

i'd be willing to bet they used the part in the impreza, legacy and the outback as well. any outbacks near you ?? maybe not outback. i did some research, they started using this part in the cars buit in mid- 98. it does not show an ending date for most but for some they quit in mid- 99. but more interesting, the electrical guts were used in some legacys but your housing was specific to forester and impreza. but you can get the new 'guts' for 50$ - 60$ online. complete - 22794AA000 http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/22794AA000/ guts only - 22680AA290 http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/22680AA290/ knowing what models & years use the part will let you expand your search at parts yards.

it's a pain to do on a guess, but a better ground on the radio may help. do you get any engine noise over the radio?

what's the logic behind the thicker oil???