johnceggleston

97 outback and GT both have remote entry and alarm. check www.cars101.com for available options.

the good news is he is not flat out saying NO WAY. he is probably going to offer you some lesser repair, like flush the radiator and replace the t-stat. or he may offer to cover half or some portion of the actual cost of the head gasket repair at his shop. more than likely he will offer you cash off the sale price to cover part of the repair cost, effectively raising the price of the car since you have to come up with the rest. you need to be prepared to counter that offer by knowing exactly what it will cost to repair at the dealer. and it would be helpful to know what it would cost at an independent subaru shop. the only way you can come out of this ahead is if he takes the car and gives you your money back. that is not likely to happen with out a long drawn out negotiation. you do not want bubba across the street putting off brand head gaskets on it. i would probably push for a cancellation of the sale and hope to get enough cash off the price to cover the repair at a reputable shop. bubba may be just fine, but...... and i would have an idea of what the worst case i'd be willing to accept would be. things to remember, the car is not worth more once it is repaired, he priced it as though it was in good working order. if he accepts responsibility for the repairs, you may not get to pick the shop. he has sold the car, it is easier and probably better for him to work out a deal with you than to take it back and look for a new buyer. besides he has your money already. i don't know what you paid for it, but he has way less than that in it. it might be good to know what the law in your state says about selling broken cars. in VA all cars sold by a lot or dealer must have a safety inspection. the only way to avoid the inspection is to sell it to another car dealer who is then responsible for it. and finally, if you are not satisfied with the deal, let him know you are not going away. don't get loud or angry, but don't stop. maybe you could have a picket sign with you to advertise the fact that "this car lot sells broken cars and cheats people".

i doubt you can money for your time, but you should be reimbursed for your room and board. let's see, first calmly explain and request satisfaction. when that doesn't work speak to the general manager, and calmly explain and request satisfaction. when that doesn't work calmly announce that you are calling the better business bureau to calmly explain and request satisfaction. their negligence has cost you money. there is no excuse for not calling you to say the parts did not come in. it would have been a lie, but at least you would have known the car was not ready.

for what ever reason i couldn't see the first pic yesterday. oh well.... i'd fill it to the cold line and then start the car and let it idle. shift it through all the gears and then recheck it. the TC is probably still full or at least partially full. i don't know how much the oil cooler holds. typically when you drain it while it is in the car you only get about 4 qts. it holds over 10, 10.5 i think. (ej22 A/T holds 9 something i think.) i wouldn't drive it until you have checked it a couple of times. you will not kill it driving it around the block with low fluid but it will not help it.

do yourself a favor when you have the crank pulley off the car. paint a timing mark on it in the 12 o'clock position, 180* away from the key way. (when setting the timing belt the crank key way is down in the 6 o'clock position.) that way if you have doubts about your timing being correct or the car still will not start and every one here, including me, is telling you that the timing is off and you used the wrong marks, you can check the crank position without pulling the crank pulley. good luck, and keep us informed.

dayco timing belt, 105k, 28$ @ advance auto, part number: 95254 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Timing-Belt-Dayco_18280463-P_161_R|GRP60010_709869476___ Dayco Timing Belt Part No. 95254 Warranty Timing Belt (Camshaft) (Calif.); Service Interval: 105,000 Normal; Water Pump Driven by Timing Belt | View Customer Q&A Be the first to write a review | View Customer Q&A Shipping: In Stock Pick Up in Store: Check Availability $27.99 Quantity Check a Store near you Timing Belt (Camshaft) (Calif.); Service Interval: 105,000 Normal; Water Pump Driven by Timing Belt Yes, this part fits your 1995 Subaru Legacy L. Change vehicle

just to be sure, the timing marks are NOT the arrows or dots, they are all hash marks. links below in my signature, especially page 2 in the one with pics. you can get a good kit on ebay from "theimportexperts". at auto zone, the the california belt, 105k interval, is cheaper than the 'fed' belt, 60k interval. the cal belt will fit and work on your car.

i tried to, you remove the shaft and then undo the nut on the pinion. IIRC the seal is next in line and should be pretty easy. but, when you re-torque the pinion nut you are supposed to torque it until it requires a certain amount of force, something inch pounds, to turn the pinion shaft. you can't just torque the hel out of it. anyway, i could never get the pinion nut off. like the rear diff drain plugs, if you do not have a lift it is hard to get enough leverage and swing room to unbolt it. unless of course you have an impact wrench.

i was looking to buy it, but it has a lot of issues, paint, ac, really grimy inside, torque bind etc. but if the price were right....... but i was just curios about hot to identify the year of the engine. i know it's not a phase 2, i assume it is a 97 or a 98 since that would be the most logical for the un-informed to install. but in fact the 95 is an easier install. i can never remember which years are dual and which are single. i just know that 95 ej22 is different than 96 - 98, and 95 matches 96 - 99 ej25. i forgot to check the y-pipe.

if the FWD light is on your duty c is working, or at least it is perceived to be working. if you still have binding it is likely the transfer clutch plates. try a drain and re-fill of the trans fluid. do it several times with driving inbetween. if the plates are gunked up new fluid may help clean them up. a bad duty c will not give you a traditional CEL, it will give you a flashing "AT Temp" light, which indicates an electrical problem in the trans, ie: the duty c solenoid. as far as a repair is concerned, first see if the drain and fill helps. then you have to decide if you want to open it up and just replace the clutch plates or include the duty c. the cost of all parts vs. the labor to go in again the solenoid fails in the future. if you are really low on funds and the parts would keep you from feeding your elderly mother, you can always remove the rear section of the drive shaft. the front section has to remain or fluid will pump / spill out of the a$$ end of the trans.

engine: passenger side bell housing, fairly low and in tiny little numbers, very hard to see with the engine in the car. auto trans: driver side, half way back half way up from the bottom. this may not be true for all subarus, but it has been true for all the ones i have taken apart.

http://www.car-part.com sort your search by distance.

yes, but the vin is on the passenger side, fairly low and in tiny little numbers, very hard to see with the engine in the car. maybe with a mirror........ thanks

i looked at a 97 LSi today that had already had an EJ22 swap. i assume the ej22 is a 97, but i'm not sure. can any one think of a way to identify the year of the ej22?? the first step would be the exhaust ports, dual = 96 - 98. any other clues?? thanks, john

also, the id plate on the driver side strut tower under the hood will have the transmission code number. if it reads TZ102Zxxxx, then it is AWD, if it reads TA102Axxxx it is FWD. you don't even need to get your knees dirty.

where did you buy it, who did you buy it from????? go back and complain, they knew it was bad, especially if it was a dealer or car lot, and they cheated you. 900$ is a really good price, but you need to demand subaru head gaskets for that price, no others will work (they only cost 36$ each, 72 total). complain to the seller. you might get lucky.

the air box certainly, no biggie, and maybe the IAC on the side of the throttle body. this gives you more room but you will want to mark it before you pull it so you don't have to calibrate? / adjust it when you re-install it. i marked mine in 2 places so when i line both marks up it was dead on. there seems to be a consensus that a specific kind of wrench works best, i'm not sure just what kind.

search and read up on torque bind, lots of info. the power to the rear wheels is controlled by fluid pressure, electrically, through the duty c solenoid. the fuse will put the car in FWD only. no power to the rear wheels. this should eliminate the binding.

probably. (the last time someone posted a pic like this and asked the question i was the only one to say "no") but it is difficult to see from the angle of the pic. can you post another one with the camera lined up with the edge of the trans bell housing. meaning, if the TC were not there the near and far edges of the bell housing would be even. the tabs on the TC that the bolts go into should be mostly 'inside' the bell housing. ps, what happened to the first picture from below??

any spare you have will do. i think, fuse in with NO fwd light means your duty c is bad. you can get them online with the 2 gaskets you need for about 100$, maybe less since it is 90 - 94.

alternator on the blink. it is usually accompanied by the ABS light as well.

apparently there are 2 holes for locking the "flywheel / torque converter. there is the access hole on top for removing and installing the bolts holding the TC to the flex plate and then there is a smaller "bolt" hole half way down on the engine bell housing which can only be used for locking the crank to keep it from turning during tightening. i have never used the smaller "bolt" hole. it sounds a little scary, what if a tooth broke off the TC? but others have used it with out issue and recommend it as a good method to keep the crank from turning. comments?

according to the parts diagram, item # 27, and the linked pages, they did make a change around your year ( ), but both are listed being used 94 - 98 and the newr part number on into o4. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/steering/power_steering_gear_box/

more specifically, any auto trans from a 2.5L car, (outback, GT LSi, whatever) 96 - 98 will bolt in and plug in and work just fine. the final drive will match and it will run great. the only issue will be the speedo, if the stock tires of the donor car are different form the stock tires of your car then the speedo will be a little off. but the trans will run great. you can also use any 95 - 98 auto trans from a 2.2L car as long as you get the matching rear diff. some, a very few, 99 outbacks will also work and match the final drive, but at some point in 99 the outback went to the phase 2 trans and the wiring harness changed as well as the trans code number. making it work is a challenge, if not impossible. when comparing trans code numbers, any trans that starts with TZ102Z2.... (the last 3 characters do not matter, they refer to the model the trans was in) will work, the second 2 after the second Z is the final drive identifier. 2.2L cars have a letter in that position.

there is also the possibility the tensioner is bad. when i did my ej22 swap, the ternsioner on my new engine would not tighten up properly. something was loose or stripped, the bolt holding the pulley on i think. rather than figure it out i just used the one off my ej25.