gijoe985

Well, last summer a timing belt went and we were stuck 500 miles from home, so the dealer did 16 valves and gaskets. I replaced the front half shaft and brakes about 100 miles before the accident... Tranny was replaced 4 years ago. How much do you guys think I could part it for? Remember, labor is free for me In fact, I would get paid for my time :o (shop teacher)

It actually happened so fast that it wasn't that scary. And since it was SO big it just went over our roof, so the impact was minimal. My 8 year old daughter asked if we hit a rock...

That's from the elk... 7x7, 1200lbs... The union gospel mission got the meat and my school is getting the antlers...

Hey everyone, So I hit an elk last week, basically destroyed the front section of roof along with the driver fender, side mirror, windshield, and rear passenger door glass and right rear back glass. Should I try to fix it? I am getting $7200 from the insurance and it would cost me $1300 to keep the car. It runs and drives great still. The only major repair is the roof. I teach auto shop and am slightly tempted to try to just knock it back out as good as possible and then replace all the glass. I'll attach a couple pictures if possible. I was mainly thinking about keeping the car as a backup AWD vehicle. We weren't really driving the car much as is anyway...

I'll check the outer boot next time I have it at my shop and can get it on the lift. I doubt it is that bad since it only acts up in the cold weather...

So I feel a bit foolish since I should really know the answer to this, but I haven't worked on brakes in the last few years and my diagnosis skills are getting rusty. My buddies 95 awd legacy is having braking problems. He feel slike the peddle goes way too far down to the floor before braking. I sat in and I agreed that it felt like the brakes started catching up high, but they really didn't stop much until the peddle hit the floor. I bled his brakes for him and that didn't seem to help at all. Now, with the car off I can pump up the brakes and they feel super hard. It doesn't feel like air in the lines. But with the car on, and power booster working, the peddle just seems to go right to the floor. How does that sound to you guys? I feel like if the master cylinder was going out, it would slowly lose pressure as I held it down while the vehicle was not running. Could there be a booster problem? I did take off the check valve hose and tested that air only went through on way, just for good measure. Any thoughts? It still stops, but it just feels like by having to push to the floor, that it won't be stopping for long...

I've got a clicking coming from the CV joint area when turning left, but only when it is cold weather and the car is cold. Do I just need to check and lube my front driver CV joint? I don't know exactly why it only happens when cold. That is more what I am curious about. I assume that as the car warms (or in warmer weather, it is in the 20's right now) that the fluid becomes less viscous and then gets into the joints better? I have a feeling that it isn't a part failure and could be fixed with a lube change/addition. Anyone else experience this before?

So, this is the unit we have kinda settled on, pending further investigating. I have had troubles getting reviews from any actual owners, but it looks nice. http://www.wescotools.com/p-11551-bend-pak-5155097-spray-wash-cabinet.aspx I have also been thinking about a dip tank, but I've found that since this is a school, there can be issues with the various chemicals used.

I love it all!!! Thanks! In fact, if you could maybe give me a few links to some examples of what you were talking about, that'd be great. I'd love to know which chemicals for dip tanks and whatnot you were thinking of. Right now I am looking at the rotating hot detergent spraying setups. I am also looking into some setups for rust, like a big evaoprust tank or something. Links would be awesome if possible. I'm running around so much right now just trying to get sockets organized, I have no time for research.

That's probably like the one I am thinking of...

I am just starting out teaching high school auto shop at a new school. We've got tons of industry style equipment. We hope to start doing some engine building soon, but I don't have a really good unit for cleaning blocks/parts. What do you all think I should get? I know there are the rotating stand up units that spray the blocks with a hot foamy solution. What about those larger ultrasonic cleaning tanks? I'd love to hear some suggestions. And I'm sure I'll need more in the future.

Well... I put some gas in her, and she is running better. So I guess it could have been a bad gas issue.

OK, just remembered a big piece of info. When I put it back together, I had the fuel lines swapped. The fuel was pumping into the return line. Could that have messed something up? The FPR? I don't know how that'd give a TPS code, but it is something to mention...

I'll admit that I hav oly done a jiggle test... I jiggled all hoses and they felt fine. If I could get it idling I woud try spraying around the hose... Maybe I can build pressurizing adapter like use on my turbo cars to check for leaks...

I doubt it, but the logic is good. I've checked them all a few times...