gijoe985

Well, last summer a timing belt went and we were stuck 500 miles from home, so the dealer did 16 valves and gaskets. I replaced the front half shaft and brakes about 100 miles before the accident... Tranny was replaced 4 years ago. How much do you guys think I could part it for? Remember, labor is free for me In fact, I would get paid for my time :o (shop teacher)

It actually happened so fast that it wasn't that scary. And since it was SO big it just went over our roof, so the impact was minimal. My 8 year old daughter asked if we hit a rock...

That's from the elk... 7x7, 1200lbs... The union gospel mission got the meat and my school is getting the antlers...

Hey everyone, So I hit an elk last week, basically destroyed the front section of roof along with the driver fender, side mirror, windshield, and rear passenger door glass and right rear back glass. Should I try to fix it? I am getting $7200 from the insurance and it would cost me $1300 to keep the car. It runs and drives great still. The only major repair is the roof. I teach auto shop and am slightly tempted to try to just knock it back out as good as possible and then replace all the glass. I'll attach a couple pictures if possible. I was mainly thinking about keeping the car as a backup AWD vehicle. We weren't really driving the car much as is anyway...

I'll check the outer boot next time I have it at my shop and can get it on the lift. I doubt it is that bad since it only acts up in the cold weather...

So I feel a bit foolish since I should really know the answer to this, but I haven't worked on brakes in the last few years and my diagnosis skills are getting rusty. My buddies 95 awd legacy is having braking problems. He feel slike the peddle goes way too far down to the floor before braking. I sat in and I agreed that it felt like the brakes started catching up high, but they really didn't stop much until the peddle hit the floor. I bled his brakes for him and that didn't seem to help at all. Now, with the car off I can pump up the brakes and they feel super hard. It doesn't feel like air in the lines. But with the car on, and power booster working, the peddle just seems to go right to the floor. How does that sound to you guys? I feel like if the master cylinder was going out, it would slowly lose pressure as I held it down while the vehicle was not running. Could there be a booster problem? I did take off the check valve hose and tested that air only went through on way, just for good measure. Any thoughts? It still stops, but it just feels like by having to push to the floor, that it won't be stopping for long...

I've got a clicking coming from the CV joint area when turning left, but only when it is cold weather and the car is cold. Do I just need to check and lube my front driver CV joint? I don't know exactly why it only happens when cold. That is more what I am curious about. I assume that as the car warms (or in warmer weather, it is in the 20's right now) that the fluid becomes less viscous and then gets into the joints better? I have a feeling that it isn't a part failure and could be fixed with a lube change/addition. Anyone else experience this before?

So, this is the unit we have kinda settled on, pending further investigating. I have had troubles getting reviews from any actual owners, but it looks nice. http://www.wescotools.com/p-11551-bend-pak-5155097-spray-wash-cabinet.aspx I have also been thinking about a dip tank, but I've found that since this is a school, there can be issues with the various chemicals used.

I love it all!!! Thanks! In fact, if you could maybe give me a few links to some examples of what you were talking about, that'd be great. I'd love to know which chemicals for dip tanks and whatnot you were thinking of. Right now I am looking at the rotating hot detergent spraying setups. I am also looking into some setups for rust, like a big evaoprust tank or something. Links would be awesome if possible. I'm running around so much right now just trying to get sockets organized, I have no time for research.

That's probably like the one I am thinking of...

I am just starting out teaching high school auto shop at a new school. We've got tons of industry style equipment. We hope to start doing some engine building soon, but I don't have a really good unit for cleaning blocks/parts. What do you all think I should get? I know there are the rotating stand up units that spray the blocks with a hot foamy solution. What about those larger ultrasonic cleaning tanks? I'd love to hear some suggestions. And I'm sure I'll need more in the future.

Well... I put some gas in her, and she is running better. So I guess it could have been a bad gas issue.

OK, just remembered a big piece of info. When I put it back together, I had the fuel lines swapped. The fuel was pumping into the return line. Could that have messed something up? The FPR? I don't know how that'd give a TPS code, but it is something to mention...

I'll admit that I hav oly done a jiggle test... I jiggled all hoses and they felt fine. If I could get it idling I woud try spraying around the hose... Maybe I can build pressurizing adapter like use on my turbo cars to check for leaks...

I doubt it, but the logic is good. I've checked them all a few times...

How many places should I be checking the TPS connection at other than the connector right by it? Maybe one of the main connectors that are behind the battery?

Just got my engine installed. I've got a 31, 22, and 16 showing on my engine codes. Throttle, knock, and injector #3. I'm going to check the wires on number 3 when I'm done posting. Otherwise, the car will only start if you give no throttle, dies when you give any throttle (which tells me it is lean), and then either way it only runs for a couple seconds at higher rpm (1500) and then dies. You can kinda blip the throttle and keep it alive, but not for long. Any thoughts?

Is there any chances that I can reseat the TC back in place without fully removing the engine? I don't have it in front of me so I cannot visualize if that'd be possible. I guess otherwise just pull the whole thing... I'm sure it'll be quicker this time...

Ug... I fastened the TC bolts before I had the engine fully tightened down to the tranny.... It was on the engine hoist... So where to now? I figure I'll try to see if I can get it loose and run it, but I may end up needing a new tranny I assume. Or a junkyard one. Any suggestions?

So I recently rebuilt my 92 2.2 motor and I installed it into my AWD, Auto legacy yesterday. Long story short, got the engine in, put the torque converter bolts back on, realized that I never got the engine mount studs into their holes, so I jacked it up a little and popped them in, and then I finished bolting the engine together. But later when I tried to start the engine, it was locked up, couldn't turn it with a breaker bar either. Back in high school I messed up a TC on my mustang by not having it in all the way when I bolted the engine to the tranny. I ended up crushing my tranny fluid pump. I'm hoping this wasn't so bad... Any tips on how to remedy this without pulling the engine all the way again? Thus far I plan to loosen the engine to tranny bolts and see if it will spin then. Then maybe the bolts on the TC. But I don't know what I'd do from there if it doesn't work.

I'm in the dealer as I type. My wife's Subaru blew a timing belt last Thursday. I live in central Washington, but was on a road trip to LA. It blew in southern Oregon. Without an option I had it towed to the dealer. Every valve was busted. My problem- The car was diagnosed and heads taken off last Thursday. Exactly a week ago, almost to the hour. I was called on Monday and was told that the car would be ready for me on Wednesday. I ended up not coming back until today (Thursday). I get here and they still have it torn apart and it will not be done until 5pm. I got here at 1:30. The guy at the desk first denied that he said it'd be ready, and then just told me that something unexpected probably came up. I went and talked with the mechanic and he told me that he got pulled off the job because another warrantied car needed his attention and he didn't get started until this morning. THE DAY AFTER THEY SAID THEY'D BE DONE! I then was told by the mechanic that he didn't think the valves got here until this morning, but I was told on Monday that they were being overnighted... So, I now will not reach my destination tonight and have been totally inconvenienced. So far they have taken no ownership for the inconvenience. I am very upset that it is taking longer and even more upset that I was not called to be informed of the delay. I would still be in San Fransisco with my good buddy if I had known the car would not be waiting for me. Finally- Do I have to pay them in full? What I want to do is deduct their hourly wage from my bill for every hour I had to wait. What can they do? I'm waiting until they finish the work before I start playing hardball. Other than sending me to collections, what can they do? I don't know, but I am just frustrated. Any suggestions?!?!?!???

Not to hijack my own thread, but I really wish I could get the fuel mileage up on my wife's car. Again, a 2001 2.5l awd auto outback. So i think that is the same tranny. Not certain though. I think she only gets like 25mpg... It'd be sweet to see a few more mpgs on our 2500 miles trip next week...

Well, turns out that today, when I went to check the code one last time... it came back different. Now I got a 133- b1s1 o2 sensor slow response. Any thoughts on that. I'm going to go search... Edit- After some searching, it seems that looking for leaks is going to be needed. I've been getting some rattling for a long while from the heat shielding on the exhaust. I'm supposed to go on a trip from WA to CA pretty quick here. Will this be a problem? I highly doubt it, other than maybe a fuel mileage drop...

I a getting the "Catalytic Converter is below efficiency threshold" code on my wife's 2001 2.5l outback. I have cleared it a couple times (in case it was a fluke), but it has came back. I figure that I am going to need to replace it. I was curious, would it possibly be cheaper to get a generic high performance cat? I figure if it even helps with gas mileage a little bit, it'd be worth it. She commutes almost 100 miles a day in that car. Any other suggestions?

I'm planning to get some rings and bearings from Rock Auto for about $127 shipped. Does anyone know of a place that can beat that price?