gijoe985

Still would love to hear any input on where to get parts...

Oh, and if nobody knows of a decent quality/price kit, where the best place for parts? I read somewhere that a guy for the gaskets from Schucks and the bearings and rings from NAPA.

Anyone have a good source for a rebuild git for my 91 ej22 nt? Rings, bearings, gaskets,etc.

Any ideas of how much I could part out a 91 legacy for? Everything is there. I figure Ebay, cragislist, and a few forums. Scrap the rest... It's got 270k on it and an engine I don't want to work on anymore. I've considered dropping a junkyard motor in and selling it whole, but I'm getting lazy. It'd probably take as much effort to part it though... We'll see...

Just curious which engines/cars I can look to for compatible parts. I've got a 2001 outback with a 2.5. I broke the pulley for the AC unit. I'd like to find a junkyard one or look online. I just want to know which cars I can look at and what years. For instance, would a late 90's one work? I've got a 91 2.2 legacy and they look darned near the same, but there'd need to be modifications, which I'd rather not do. Thanks! (Any suggestions as to where I could look would be appreciated too)

Maybe This? http://cgi.ebay.com/ADUSTABLE-FOLDING-PIN-FACE-SPANNER-WRENCH-AUTO-TOOL_W0QQitemZ280387405870QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item414864482e

Alright, I tried to get the crankshaft bolt out to do a timing belt with no luck. I called it a day. I tried to hold the pulley with a belt wrench with no luck. Then I tried the ole' turn the engine over routine and I cracked my fan housing... What I really really want, but have never seen, is a universal spanner wrench. Or a kit. The pulley has the holes in it for a spanner wrench tool. But I'd rather get something universal or at least something that has more use then just my Suby..

Oh, and as for the 99... Could I just swap over most of the parts from my 91 engine and use the 99 as a longblock?

It's got 270k on it. I really just don't want to deal with it anymore. It probably is salvagable... It needed a head gasket, I replaced that, and then when reassembled it ran worse. In fact, it was externally leaking oil and water mixed. I've done enough head gaskets before that I assume I didn't make any critical mistakes, I just don't want the headache...

Could I put a 2.2 from a 99 legacy in?

I've got a 1991 AWD Legacy with a dead engine... What could I put in there? I'm having trouble finding a 2.2l around here... I live in Central Washington

Well, as for the water leaking, I checked today and can visibly see some water coming from the head gasket area. Will a coolant change and the addition of that factory additive potentially fix that? It isn't hurting performance. Or as far as I can tell. Should I just do the head gaskets? Since I'm already going in for the timing belt and water pump?

There has been nothing really done in the past 30k other than oil. Timing belt is the primary thing I am planning to change. I assumed it should have been done at 120k, but like I mentioned, I had to push it out a few months. I guess my question is, what should I do other than tune up stuff and the belt itself. I am contemplating the idler pulleys, tensioner, and water pump. As well as fluid changes all around...

Hi Everyone, My wife drives a 2001 2.5l Auto Outback. She commutes over two small mountain passes for a total of 100 miles per day, 5 days a week. We're at about 130k on the car right now. I have not done the 120k maintenance, for two reasons- 1) short on time/money 2)I figured since the car gets 90% of it's miles from freeway driving, it could make it a little further before I had time to do the work. My goal for this thread was to hear advice from Subaru enthusiasts. While I have a lot of mechanic experience, I'm not a Subaru specialist. Other than the basic description above here is some more info- *The car does go through a little water. I am assuming this is the common phase 2 2.5l head gasket problem. I've got the additive to put in when I flush the coolant. Hopefully that does it. *I assume this is the coolant loss, but after longer drives (100miles+) you can smell, what I assume is, coolant. I think it drips down onto the exhaust. *Lately, in the cold weather, there is a noise coming from the front driver CV joint area. Kinda of a ", thunk, thunk"m when making left turns. It seems to go away with the warmer weather. A friend at the dealer said that a tranny fluid change might fix that. *Lastly, yesterday my wife (who knows little to nothing about cars) said the car was "not wanting go" when taking off from a stopped position. Though it didn't seem like she alluded to it idling rough. By the time she made the 50 miles trek home, the car was running fine. Anyway, that is why I am trying to go ahead and get all the maintenance done. My questions- What should be done at the 120k? I know what the book says, but I feel that you guys might suggest more or less. For instance, timing belt? Do I need to do the pulleys? Should I do the water pump while I'm down there? Other than the timing belt and other typical tuneup stuff, is there anything else I should check/replace? I looked at prices and getting the idler pulleys and whatnot is a huge step up in price. And I know some cars it is a must, while other it is not needed. Thanks for the help guys!

Hey all, I kinda think I know the answer to this already, but would it be "acceptable" to bend a bent rim back into a usable condition? I ran over a rock last night, bent the rim enough to unseat the bead, but it really does not look bad. I even wonder if the shock unseated it and if I took it to a shop if they could seat it again. Either way, if I was just trying to bend it back little, would it be acceptable? (I know fixing wheel/tire damage is an iffy thing...)

Hey all, I've got a pretty complete shop and I do quite a bit of car work on the side. Something I do not have, nor do I know the exact direction I want to go with, is something to check for hydrocarbons in the coolant. Or maybe check in the exhaust? And suggestions? Should I get a 4 gas analyzer? Or something to check the coolant for contaminants? Both general tool suggestions as well as specific brands or links would be appreciated.

Would Schucks (kragen, checkers, Oreily's) have this? Pretty straight forward. Does it work well? I read about drilling a very small hole in the thermostat to allow air to pass through, but not enough water to make much of a cooling difference. Good idea/bad idea?

I tried tightening hoses and it certainly made it quieter. Much more bearable. I think the hose that went to the MAF was not on all the way. Seemed to make it worse.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a remote start setup for a 96 MT outback? It'd be sweet if I could do locks and RS with one clicker. Alarm would be a + but not needed...

Talking to a deal mech, he said he would bet a lot that it is the HG. But pertaining to your last comment, I always thought the HG being bad caused the loss of coolant, which in turn created the overheating...

Any way to check? Visual inspection? Can I clean the system? Does he need AC, no... But if he wants to sell the car, it is a nice selling point. We live in central WA, shrub step climate (one step above dessert.) So we've got a the single digit highs right now, with triple digits in the summer... So some people like the AC, but it isn't really humid here...

Just read this, "sludgy residue on walls of overflow reservoir" as a sign of a bad head gasket (which my local dealer confirmed over the phone.) Read it on THIS site.

I did not mention, he had it replaced about a year ago. He did say that is was similar when that happened.

My friend (whom has had a few problems on his 1996 outback, which I'm trying to fix today) brought his car over a few weeks back. He said he had a check engine light on for fan operation, but he cleared it and said it hadn't came back. I opened up the hood and saw that his AC belt had snapped. Then looking closer, it looks like it was eaten away by rubbing against something. So, I had him turn his ac on, and when he did I could not turn the AC pump pulley by hand at all. When AC is off I can, but the clutch is not engaged I assume. So would that mean it is seized? I figure I should be able to turn it by hand... If seized, how up the river is he and how can we tell what needs to be replaced. I've never liked messing with AC, but I've heard that if the pump goes, the rest of the system may be infected with metal and that it is safest to replace all the parts... Any thoughts?

Anyone have a humming sound coming from around the air filter box? This is a loud hum, though you can't hear it inside the car. I finally pinpointed that when you open the top of the air filter box it gets louder. So the source is up there somewhere. The sound does not change with engine speed. I tried revving and it didn't make a difference. It is a perfect pitch, sound like a tuning fork. Any ideas? 96 2.5 outback