gijoe985

Bought 4 new lifters today. We'll see what happens once they're in...

Alright, thanks. I never noticed the advanced edit. As for my ticking problems. I think I mentioned that Mitsubishi has you prime their lifters in kerosene, or MMO, so they fill easier. That's what I did. Maybe I should have just done oil. It seems funny that the lifters are pumping up, and holding it, I can't compress them once I prime them, but then after driving they get sloppy again. And the funny thing is that it is the whole intake row. Only one ticks really loud, but the whole row got squishy. But the exhausts are still very firm.

Lifter update/question- I got the tick to go away, but it came back after about five minutes of 50mph driving. Here's how it went down. 1-I took off the rocker arms (this is the first time) the intake lifters compressed a bit, 3/4 exhaust didn't compress, one was collapsed. 2-I primed the intakes, ordered new lifter, replaced new lifter the next day (today). 3-Installed everything, but there was still a tick, seemed to becoming from the top back passenger lifter (rear #3 intake). Pull the rocker arms off again, all of the intake ones can be compressed again (though after bleeding they were firm). The furthest back moved the most. 4-Primed intake lifters again, reinstalled. 5-Can runs smooth, took for country drive, tick came back after 5 minutes. Here is my question- do I prime them again? Did I do something wrong? Do all of them need to be replaced or just the furthest back one, which is where I believe the "loud" tick is coming from? At $15 a pop I'd rather not replace ones that are not needed. The car is going up for sale as soon as it is presentable. Thanks everyone! P.s. Could a moderator edit my original thread title to say something along the lines of "burning coolant and lifter tick problems after HG replacement? That way people searching in the future will be directed here.

Though it doesn't affect my current situation, am curious what you mean by checking the oik pump screws? Is there a common problem?

I had one collapsed lifter. And a whole row that needed some priming. The other head doesn't seem to be ticking, so I am going to let it be.

Good thoughts, I think I can get the valve covers off without taking anything else off. I plan to do some inspecting. I could always take out a lifter and prime it, see if that helps. I'm pretty sure I read that they're hydraulic. They are probably empty since the heads were cleaned at the machine shop. Now that's making sense. The heads were cleaned when they were machined. I assume in a solvent tank. So those lifters would be pretty empty. On my 3000gt I primed the lifters in MMO before I installed them. Quicker than oil, the Mits. shop manual suggests kerosene. I assume I can get the lifters out without taking off much, driver's side will be tight, but doable... I'll try that tomorrow. So far no more white smoke though...

Alright, white smoke gone, ticking persists. Can we change the valve lash on these? Maybe the shop removed the cams when it was machined and they didn't put them back on tight...

Hey all, so I ran it for a while, the white smoke seemed to die down once it heated up, but it didn't go away totally. I am going to try to let is cool down again and then see if it is just as bad. The ticking is still there though. I put in some MMO, but I'll need to remove oil if I do any more. I'm hoping it is just a "tick" and not a "knock." It wasn't there when the heads were pulled. They got machined, but I doubt that'd create a knock. Maybe the timing was off? Will need to look into that...

Thanks for the info, big help! I'll try to dig in deeper in the next day or two. Right now I have MMO and a longer run on my to do list. After that, maybe a leakdown test if I'm still see troubles.

Alrighty,that makes me feel better about the tick, but I still need to hammer down on this coolant leak. I may just need to take the heads off again and have them pressure tested. Maybe a block crack? No, because the oil is clean. As for the coolant, maybe we can try it out one more time and let it run longer, otherwise I'll just try again. Inspect heads... My problem there is that I had them machined, and my old local shop used to always include a pressure check with the service, but they aren't doing heads anymore. So I think I just expected them to be checked at the new place. Didn't think twice about it until I had the white smoke still...

Ok, my wife drives a 2.5l 2001 Outback, so that's still good info for me. As far as the other car, I may try running it longer, but it also had that new tapping noise that wasn't there before. Very frustrating. But I ran it probably 5 minutes. It started to die off, but when I stopped it and then started it again there was still a big cloud upon startup and then it slowly died down again. Should I check the radiator for bubbles? I'll keep hunting for clues.

Hey all, So I've got a buddy with a 90 Legacy 2.2 and from the looks of it he lost an upper radiator hose and then overheated the engine. The car was burning a lot of coolant when he got it to me. Lots of white smoke. We took off the heads, had them machined, and yet it was still burning coolant when we got her back together. The compression went from about 60 per cylinder back to about 120 after we did the heads. But we still have the white smoke and now we even have a little bit of a tapping noise. A little too light for me to call a knock. Any suggestions? Could we have an internal head crack? Is there any way that the coolant could be coming through the intake? I'm helping another buddy right now who has a 3.8 Olds that was sucking coolant through a cracked intake. Though I don't know of any coolant passages in the 2.2l subaru intake... There is always the possibility we didn't tighten things correctly or whatnot, while installing the head gaskets. But I find that kinda doubtful... Either way, after all that work, he said he'd just give me the car, so now I am hoping to find out what it is (not that I wasn't determined before.) Second question- From what I understand these cars should have distilled water and a 100% phosphate and silicate free coolant. What is the additive that Subaru has? Anti-corrosive? Would a Peak additive work? There is no dealership in my town, so I was hoping that with the correct water and coolant we could get away without the additive or with a substitute. Just curious...