gijoe985

1996 Outback, Manual. My friends. I feel like I should know the anser to this right off the bat, but I'm asking anyway. I'm also going to search more, but I wanted to post this asap because I want to go look at the car soon and if I don't find an answer from searching, I wanted this up for people to see. His wife called and said the car was overheating while going over a local mountain pass. She pulled over. I get there. The upper radiator hose was collapsed. And the hose going to the overflow was pinched. I opened the radiator and that fixed the upper. I played with the overflow hose and got that working too. I added 1/2 gallon of water to the radiator. They tried to drive it, got 200 yards and said it was overheating. I looked again, everything looked good, but then I noticed that the bottom heater hose was cold. Not warm at all. The upper hose was hot. He then mentioned to me that they had no heat coming from their heating system and that had been happening for a little while. Either way, he said he wanted to lift it home, I said ok, drove off, and he texted me later saying it was fine the rest of the way home. What gives? Air bubble? Bad pump? Plugged heater core? The coolant didn't look at that clean and there were some small brown looking chunks in it.

What prices would a pull a part be? I've heard people say that you can find these motors for $150... My local place wanted $500

Hey all, I'm just curious if anyone has any suggestions on where I can find a junkyard or used 2.2 in WA. I live in central WA. Either way, I am currently trying to contact junkyards, but I figured if anyone could point me in the right direction, it'd be helpful...

Just a quick visual inspection. Either way... someone else's problem... soon... hopefully

So... my problems have worsened. I started it up and now the oil has mixed with the coolant (didn't before) and it is actually dripping off the back side of the head. I'm selling the car. This is ridiculous. I was so careful to get this right. Torqued the heads exactly as described above. I've never had this happen before...

Alright. Note taken. I'll admit I'm happy that I have the new bolts, namely because I was uncertain, and this gives me more peace. And not that I necessarily doubt you, but I'd rather have them and you be right, than not have them and have you be wrong. Either way, I've got them now and I hope to see some improvements.

Now that you mention the head bolts. That is something I am trying this time. I was first told that the bolts were reusable. So the first time I did reuse them. But then I was told that the bolts were NOT reusable. So the difference is that this time I will be using new bolts. And after looking at the torque specs, it looks like what you'd do on torque to yield bots. The whole, tighten, then loosen, then tighten, then turn x°... Whether it is the new bolts, or the added meticulous attention, hopefully we'll be golden.

Gary, my apologies if I was short. I was a little frustrated when I got on and I didn't want to deal anything. I've been on the forums for a long time and I've seen complete morons as well as gurus. So I shouldn't be surprised, when starting a thread like this one, that someone would have questions about what was done. Either way, I was partly mad because my old machine shop always pressure checked heads after machining. I guess after being pampered for a few years I didn't even think to ask the new place if they did the same. So I was just frustrated to think that I did all that work to find out that they machined my cracked heads... We'll see...

No, the intake has no coolant passages. As the second sentence of my original post said, I DID have the heads machined the first time. It wasn't until I got them back that I found out that they didn't pressure test them. It was my first time of working with this new shop. So, like I was saying, I didn't want to ship the heads all the way back there just for the pressure test. This time, as well as last time, Subaru gaskets were used. Anyway, I never got an answer to my questions which was if there was a decent way to inspect the heads for a crack, other than a visual inspection... I hope this post clarifies any questions that can help me, but I don't need the advice of "having my heads machined" or, "use subaru gaskets", these things I know. I've done a bunch of head gaskets in the past, but this time something didn't work right, so I am going back in and just wanted to double check that the heads were good. As of right now, they look find, so I am just going to reinstall them. And as for my second question, I was just curious about the final torque to not exceed since that is the way I've seen it done on Chevys, Mitsubishis, and other cars...

No, the intake has no coolant passages. As the second sentence of my original post said, I DID have the heads machined the first time. It wasn't until I got them back that I found out that they didn't pressure test them. It was my first time of working with this new shop. So, like I was saying, I didn't want to ship the heads all the way back there just for the pressure test. This time, as well as last time, Subaru gaskets were used. Anyway, I never got an answer to my questions which was if there was a decent way to inspect the heads for a crack, other than a visual inspection... I hope this post clarifies any questions that can help me, but I don't need the advice of "having my heads machined" or, "use subaru gaskets", these things I know. I've done a bunch of head gaskets in the past, but this time something didn't work right, so I am going back in and just wanted to double check that the heads were good. As of right now, they look find, so I am just going to reinstall them. And as for my second question, I was just curious about the final torque to not exceed since that is the way I've seen it done on Chevys, Mitsubishis, and other cars...

On that note, for tightening head bolts- "Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the following specifications: *Tighten all bolts in sequence to 22 ft. lbs. (29 Nm). *Tighten all bolts in sequence to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm). *Loosen all bolts by 180°, then loosen an additional 180°. *Tighten bolts 1 and 2 to 25 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) for non-turbo engines and 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm) for turbo engines. *Tighten bolts 3, 4, 5 and 6 to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm) for non-turbo engines and 14 ft. lbs. (20 Nm) for turbo engines. *Tighten all bolts in sequence 80–90°. *Tighten all bolts in sequence an additional 80–90°." When I do the final 80–90° turn, about how many ft/lbs will that be? Last time I don't think I went that far because I felt like I was overtightening them. These instructions also said not to exceed 180 in total. I know on other cars I've seen instructions that say something like, "do not exceed 60lbs" or whatnot. Anyway, I was just curious.

Hey all, My 91 2.2 legacy was burning coolant. I replaced the head gaskets and had the heads machined. Put them back on, and it seemed to be fixed, but a couple weeks later I seem to be burning coolant still. And pretty quickly at that... I am going back in there and I was curious if there was a good way to check for cracks, other than having a shop pressure test it. I only ask because the nearest shop is 50 miles away and it'd take a while for them to do it. Other than a visual inspection, what should I try? I'm kinda afraid of maybe a creak between an intake/exhaust port and a cooling passage. The combustion chambers all looked real good. I honestly think that the problem was in me not torquing something correctly, or whatnot, but I want to be thorough this time through.

Alright, got the timing back and working... but my tick is still there. Oddly after letting it idle for 10 minutes the tick started to die down, but then it came back again. The oil pump screws were on very tight, so maybe there was something else going on there that new seals didn't fix? I put in some of the "fix seals" oil additive. At this point I don't think it could hurt. I'm getting a little desperate. I just want this car to be sold now...

Does anyone have a link to how to replace the cam seals with the cam in the head/car? what do I do once I remove the sprocket? Does the cam have to come out?

Ok, I think I got it. I think I did 39.5 teeth from crank to driver's side. For some reason I swore that it was lined up just to the left of the mark, but as I am reading it should be just to the right. Thanks, I'll keep you all posted. Much appreciated. EDIT- My timing was correct, but at some point a tooth of the crank gear was broken. I never noticed it. Mine was on there for keeps, to I might have snapped it when prying. I ended up threading the holes in it to use a steering wheel puller. My bad... I am going to look into doing the cam seals, I think the one that the lifters tick on may be leaking a little.

Well, I replace the oil pump gaskets and seals, as well as the water pump gaskets. No I didn't need to remove the water pump to get the oil pump off. So I put it together and now it barely runs... It seems to be lean... Or at least it dies whenever I open the throttle. I first thought timing, but I'm not certain. Part of me feels like a sensor got knocked off and is causing my problems. I've got 125psi in all cylinders, not a ton, but it's an old engine. Is there a way to check the timing mark on the crankshaft without taking everything off? I've noticed that I don't think the timing marks line it up to TDC. I removed the cam covers and both of those marks line up perfectly, and when installing everything looked good, but I noticed that when the crank gear is aligned with its timing mark, if I installed the crank pulley the timing was not at TDC. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'll keep looking, but I hope I don't need to tear her down again... Oh, and when I checked the timing with my timing light, it was near 30 degrees, but I couldn't get a good idle. So with an idle varying from 800-1100, my timing was still hopping around the 30 degree mark. Could my CPS be messed up? Obviously timing being off by 20 degree could create an issue, but again the timing could just be the engine compensating for another problem...

I'm sorry I was skeptical before, but it originally seemed like a straight forward scenario. To clarify, the screws are the ones that hold the backing plate onto the oil pump? I'm pretty certain that is what was being referred to...

Well, I took a few days off to spend time with my daughter, but I'm back at it today. I guess I'll have t remove the oil pump, but the Chilton manual says I need to remove the water pump as well. Which means yet another gasket to buy. I got a Fel-Pro kit for the oil pump, seal, etc. Maybe can do it without doing the water pump...

Ok, just got off the phone with a dealership mechanic. He says that he's seen something like this before. What he said was that if the front oil seal has a leak, it can suck air into the oiling system. So I need to check that. Is there any way to get the front seal off without removing the oil pump? If not, I'll just dig in, but if I can avoid the full job, that'd be nice...

By adjusters, do you mean lifters? If so, I've already done that. There are so many names for these darned things.... at the store they were called cam followers.

Yeah, but the compression is back up again... That's the funny thing. It went down when I primed the lifters, but it went back up over 20 minutes. I think the lifters were holding the valves open, but then lost some pressure and then the valves seated.... Why, I don't know...

OK, this is kinda weird, I really don't know what to make of it. (Edit: Just before doing the following I tested oil pressure. I got 60psi @4000. Seems high? Book said 43psi @ 5000...) I went in to prime the lifters one last time, just to be sure. I took them out, primed them, then I swapped my intakes with my exhausts, because only my lifters were loosing their prime, so I swapped them just to see. Once I had everything back together I tried to start my engine and it would not start. I did a compression check on the #1 and get 60lbs. I did a leakdown test and got about 60%. Seemed like it was from the intake... I then let it sit for about 15 minutes and then did another compression test... got 125, (And I am certain that both readings were accurate.) Went to start it and it started and held a rough idle. I pulled off the plug wires for a power drain test. The 3 barely made a difference, the 1 was more than the 3, but not like pulling off the 2 or 4. I was also getting little popping noises from the engine. Kinda like small pops in the exhaust. But by no means a full on backfire... I then revved the engine to 4k and thet it settle. The small pops went away and the engine was idling better. Pulling the #3 plug wire made a much greater difference. (Oh, forgot to mention that up until not, there has been no lifter ticking) I then revved it again, held it for 15 seconds at 4k. This time the car's idle sounded pretty normal, but now there was the faintest tick. I had to quit there, but by the time I finished, the tick got even a little bit louder. I fully believe that if I start it up this morning, the tick will be back. What I think- I don't know the why/how, but I'm certain the my finding show evidence that the valves are not seating all the way when the lifters are fully primed. After sitting for a little while, the lifters are loosing their prime and this allows the valves to seat properly and restores compression. With more time, it seems that the valves lose enough prime to create the tick. How? My only guess (which I think shows some logic, but it is still a far fetched guess) is that when doing the head gasket, I maybe didn't get the timing belt on right and... I don't know... I had a theory about that, but as I sit here typing, that theory makes less sense... The heads were machined when the gaskets were done. I reused the exhaust gaskets, but I know that's not the sound. Any direction would be amazing. If it is not done today, I will be posting it for sale tonight as-is. Which I'd rather not have t explain to every buyer about the lifter tick...

Well, as for the oil passage, both the exhaust and intake lifters are feed from an oil passage within the rocker arm assembly. It just seems funny that the upper ones don't get oil and the lower ones do, but it all runs through the same passage.

270k, so it is high mileage. Have not checked the oil pump. I know you guys have suggested driving it around a while, here are my thoughts. -After priming the lifters the sound goes away, then comes back after driving a little while. Could this be because the rocker shafts aren't primed and then they pump air into the lifters? -Why do only the top lifters compress and the bottom never have a problem? I replaced one of the bottom ones too, so I'd think the difference is in the placement, not the lifters themselves. -So I should use seafoam in addition to the MMO? I've got a quart of MO in there... -Would the fact that the driver side bank doesn't tick make the oil pump problem seem less likely? Low oil pressure seems like a possible cause, but it just seems funny that the problem is so isolated to one side, and only intake lifters... I'll try driving it around today. See what happens.

Alright, some of you may have read my other thread that was about burning coolant and then the tick. I figured the tick is now my problem so I am focusing on it. I replaced head gaskets on my 91 legacy 2.2 non turbo. Runs fine now, but I have a lifting ticking problem that was not there before. My entire intake row (4 lifters) are getting squishy on the passenger side and are ticking loudly. When I did the heads they were machined. One exhaust lifter was replaced because it was collapsed. Right now the exhaust all hold their prime. If I prime the intakes they run quiet for a little while, but after a few minutes of driving they start making noise again and when I take them off, all squishy. I have even replaced all of my intake lifters with new ones. But it still came back (though not quite as loud, but still too loud to try to sell this car ([my goal]). I was suggested to see if there was a plugged oil passage preventing them from getting oil pressure, but it looks to me that it would be the same passage that feeds the exhaust lifters and yet they stay pumped up just fine... Any thoughts or direction? Oh, I also put a quart of MMO in the oil when I did the heads as suggested by another member to prevent the lifter tick... (SEE MY LATEST POST FOR UPDATE)