johnceggleston

you can't see the crank timing mark with the crank pulley and timing cover on. so if it is off you would not know unless you removed them both. so yes it could be off with out looking like it. the other possible way it could be off is if the crank key way is boogered and the crank sprocket is off. but usually the pulley wobbles as a result and usually not so soon after an install. did the shop check the heads / valves on the driver side, #2 & #4?? probably not the problem, but.... what timing mark did you use for the crank sprocket?

swap in the struts and then go back to him and make a bet, if they fit you get 1 tire free, or 4 mount and balance free. he will not take the bet.

it looks like the bracket is slightly more perpendicular in the second pic, maybe one cable is moving more than the other. maybe the driver side? cable needs to be lubed??

90 - 95 legacy 93 - 95 2.2L impreza any 1.8L impreza i think, i'm pretty sure. http://www.car-part.com , sort your search by distance.

there should be a sticker on the B pillar, the door post that the front closes to. it will have the build date. around june on each year they start building the 'next' model year. so a march 90 date would be a 90, but a sept 90 date would be a 91. but your title will say for sure.. 90 was the first year for the legacy and even though the 4EAT, 4 speed electronic auto transmission, wasn't new in that year most of the cars they produce for the 10 years before were 'select' 4wd not 'all the time' 4wd. so yes, it is AWD, the same as the next 10 years of ATs. happy motoring.

yes it will work, no need to plug the lines. i have the same set up in my 90 nissan pickup.

pull the driver side timing cover and see if it's flopping around. use mechanics stethoscope to isolate the noise. i used a piece of trans fluid hose to locate the loudest place in my engine, but the stethoscope is better and not expensive. the intakes will swap between 99 ej22 and 01 ej25 so that would be the easiest as long as all the other stuff works, ie: tps, iac?? i think, the 01 will not go into the 99 GT since the GT is a phase 1 dohc engine, not sohc like the 01.

ej22 90 - 96 is non-interference.

so i got the impact driver ($10) and used it to loosen the door strike. i expected to whack it a couple of times and then undo it the rest of the way by hand. but both screws had to be whacked continuously to remove them. some one had used blue thread lock on both. one of them got boogered so i replaced them from my donor car and found a difference. the ones with thread lock were missing the star washers. this probably caused them to loosen, hence the thread lock, and prevent correct door alignment. i adjusted the strike and now it closes and looks great. thanks for the help.

the engine is in, everything is reconnected except the exhaust. my second cat is busted so i'm waiting on repair or replace before bolting on the y-pipe and front cat. this means no o2 sensors are connected. when i turn the key to 'run' i hear the #3 injector clicking continuously and what sounds like the fuel pump doing the same thing. the injector quits clicking when i unplug it, duh. the sound from the rear actually sounds like it is coming from behind the RR tire but the fuel pump is the only thing i can think of in that general area. and it will not start. i know it has fuel but i haven't started checking for spark, compression or actual fuel in the cylinders. it was late when i tried to start it. any ideas on how to deal with the injector and the fuel pump? clicking? history: 1995 ej22 125k w/egr from a salvage yard. passenger camshaft and sprocket were broken in an accident. i replaced both from a 96 ej22. new nkg plugs and subaru wires. fresh oil and filter new t-belt, sesls, idlers and water pump. it's installed in 98 outback 140k auto . i have the rest of the 96 ej22 for parts, but the injectors are gray instead of red. does that matter?? please help! thanks, john

it does it all the time, especially hard during strong acceleration. also shifts hard if i start in 1 and manually shift to 2. if i take it real easy, and let off the gas at 15 - 20 mph it will shift fairly easily.

the problem here is that since it will not run, you are taking his word for it that everything else is ok. it could have bad head gaskets, trans, axles, wheel bearings, etc. as far as the engine goes, it probably will be good, most of them are. but you just do not know

you're right, it does make sense that they know. but, it does not make sense that there is one chassis for auto and another for manual. it would be more practical to have one chassis that would fit both trans, not either or. but if the was a change in 97 then that might explain it. the build date on his donor car may be 96, but not his model year.

i like these guys, theimportexperts: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/theimportexperts/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg= ej22 belt, all idlers and pump, about $125, IIRC. lots of folks have had good experiences with them. they also have a retail store somewhere, if you do not see the "package" you want call them, they will put together what you need. by the way, you probably do not need the tensioner unless yours is leaking fluid. they do not fail very often.

i find this really odd. a bigger deal than the radiator being different is that they would have had to alter the front chassis? cross member to match. this would be really expensive for subaru. i doubt they know what trans is going in when they make a chassis. check to see if you do have holes in the cross member you can use. maybe both mounting points are there. if yess, either make your fans work or go get the fans off the 96. as for the the picture at the web site, it is not unusual for them to use a generic pic for an item. they may not even sell the "manual" rad since the other will work, if it does.

the tcu and the transfer clutch ALWAYS allow for some slip between the front and rear. it is never locked in a 50 - 50 split. this is designed to avoid binding even when you need extra torque to the rear. but the system does put out it's maximum to the rear when called for and it is one of the best systems on the road. the switch removes the brain and the designed slip from the system, it locks the rear drive shaft to the front output shaft and they both turn at the exact same speed, no slipping allowed. this is great for rock crawling, mud, sand, snow and other places where you need 4wd but not good on pavement.

the TPS, throttle position sensor can and will throw a trans code. and maybe cause a hard start situation????

in the 95 - 99 cars, this means there is an electrical problem in the trans, i assume the same is true for 00 - 04. there is a way to read the code and figure out whth the problem is. search for "trans* trouble codes" or something similar., maybe ''reading trans* codes" . how does the car run? is the trans fluid level ok?

you need a relay fix. they are simple and cost very little. i used directions and a drawing from this site but i do not remember what search "terms" i used to find it. i would suggest 'starter relay' and see what you get. i just read this week a post about how adding a relay corrected every starter problem ever. of course this is an exaggeration but you get the idea. especially if you have tried several starters. basically you use the existing ''little" wire on the starter , from the ignition switch, to energize a relay which then feeds power from the battery to the starter solenoid, the little wire on the starter. it works great, i put one in several years ago and have not had any starting issues since. i did not clean or replace the contacts in the starter. works great. the relays are generic and cheap at any parts store, you need some wire and connectors and a "fused feed wire" from the battery. this too is not expensive.

is there any chance this would cause a "hard" 1-2 shift and no other symptoms?? having read the fsm pages attached, i've already planned to double check and make sure that my wife's 97 GT 2.2L auto does not make a 1-3 shift. i don't think it does, but i still want to check.

i would if they were both 2.5L engines, but one is a 2.2L and the other is a 2.5L. i don't think they are interchangeable. but maybe the underlying "tubing" is?? anyone know?

right you are, i missed that. i have 2.2L on my mind.

as many times as i have read these words you would think i'd remember them. thanks.

i'm swapping an 95 auto ej22 into a 98 outback. the 98 has the canister in the rear and the 95 had it up front. to simplify the plumbing, can i just install the 95 canister in the front of the 98 and hook it up like it was? will this cause me to have "open" vac lines in the rear? are there any "sensors" located at the canister in the rear? or is all that stuff still on the strut tower? (looks like it's still all there.) if the rear canister is still "plumbed" in at the rear, will it hurt to add a second one up front? adding the canister seemed like a simple way to fix the plumbing. this stuff is a huge mystery to me, kind of like the smoke in the electrical components that you don't want to come out. EDIT, i read up on this in my haynes manual and have a very basic undetstanding of the system. i guess the big question will be if the solenoid is connected to the correct vac line. and second, do the metal lines need to be connected to something specific, other than the front canister. don't see any real harm by having 2 canisters. would be possible to connect the front "canister" lines on the ej22 to each other, just make a u-turn, to complete the system without the front canister? any help would be appreciated.

sounds like i need a BFS too loosen those strike screws. thanks.