johnceggleston

info on sway bars and handling, probably more than you wanted to know but the second post lists all of the sway bar sizes, front and rear through the years. good info. and Zues Marine is a member here as well. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/swaybar-faq-134646.html

www.cars101.com or maybe http://www.carsdirect.com , although 95 maybe too old.

thanks td, just what i needed.

so i will be not the guy who swears "the fuses are good, i checked them" i will check them again. but to have a bad fuse after my method of checking fuses would require 2 bad fuses in a row, or a bad fuse seat. i start with a spare fuse that looks good. when i pull a fuse i replace it with the spare. if nothing changes i move on to the next, pull it and install the one i pulled from the first . keep doing this until i have covered all of the fuses of that size. on to the next size. the fuses that kill something when pulled are obviously good. the ones that do nothing may need further checking. i guess a test light would come in handy. but i'll check again. i have read too many posts where the cause is a bad fuse after checking all the fuses.

the tires are obviously different. and i'm pretty sure the struts are the same and the springs too. i did some checking, sway bars are different: legacy, L, LS, Brighton have a D=15 sway bar. (D = diameter??) GT, LSi have a D = 16 sway bar and the winner, Outback has a D=18 sway bar. rumor has it that the mounting brackets are different to allow for the different diameters. i'm sure the "rubber bushings" are different but i'm not sure of the metal brackets. so what would a legacy drive like with an outback sway bar??

so what are the differences between 97 lego L vs. GT, sway bars and tires??

i don't think these are available for my 97 outback. i found them for my 97 avalon though.

will do , thanks i have never pulled a steering wheel, i'm hoping i don't have to, but we'll see.

97 GT, 2,2L swap, auto w/ 150k miles. the hor, cruise control quit working and i have an ABS light on all the time. i expected a fuse, but these things are on different fuses and i have check them all. what do they have in common, the steering wheel? suggestions?

the bearing on the out put shaft fits into a machined seat. it is not, at least the 2 i've handled weren't, is not hard to remove. slides right out. but as long as there is plenty of fluid / oil for the bearing and the outer race of the bearing is not spinning in the case then you shouldn't have a problem. i would think the seal would be a more likely weak point, if it is not leaking you should be ok.

well it needs 3 things to start, air, fuel, and spark; along with the necessary compression, intake and exhaust. the air is a no brainer. the spark can be tricky unless you like getting zapped. but fuel, you can shoot some starting fluid into the intake and see if it fires. it's hard to do with the intake in place and it probably won't run / fire for very long if the intake is loose, but if it fires at all you will see some light and narrow it down to a fuel issue.

i don't mean to be rude or condescending, but please describe the crank and cam marks you used for the timing belt. being off a tooth or two isn't as bad as using the wrong marks.

uh .... gas in the tank?

which 2 cylinders, left vs. right or front vs. rear?? if it is really a spark issue (it's amazing how many reports of no spark end up being something else), and front vs. rear, check the igniter which is mounted on the fire wall beside the dog bone, just left of center. if it is left vs right, look for a timing issue, check the belt and cam marks. are all of the vac lines connected, especially the one under the plastic intake that runs from the air filter box to the throttle body?? probably disconnected when removing plugs and hard to see unless you look for it because it is underneath.

search "diffcheck" . you can use that procedure to see if the transfer clutch will indeed "lock up". or just unplug the large wiring connector the goes to the trans and drive it in tight circles. with the wiring disconnected the trans should be in limp mode, 3rd gear only and ''locked'' 4wd. if not, you have a mechanical problem in the rear extension housing on the trans.

both i think. most report a click, but i don't remember mine doing that. the click assures that you don't have a cut wire or non-functioning ignition switch. the electricity is flowing, just not enough. EDIT for taglines: starterrelay, starterrelayfix, starterfix

i'm sure there is, but i would think it is bundled in the wire harness.

the TCU or TCM, trans control module, is located under the dash on the driver side of the car. it is about the size of a paperback book. any work in that area just prior to the problem?

the ecm, twice as big, maybe more, as a paper back book, mounted under the carpet passenger side?? or the same size as a book, or a little smaller, under the dash driver's side? i don't know much about the ecm, but it is possible that by installing a different ecm, one that had not been powered up, you started with a clean slate and it took several drive cycles to set the codes again. in other words you migth have gotten the same results with leaving the neg. battery cable off over night.

they can charge a fee to diagnose the problem. they SHOULD have been very clear about that up front. but i'd be willing to bet when you dropped off the car that they had you sign something agreeing that you would recieve a written estimate before any repairs are done. most shops do to reassure the customer. if they spend time and money / parts "trying" to fix it and are unsuccessful then that is a different issue. complain to the manage and if necessary go to the better business bureau. some dealers may not care but most want a good reputation. i had a 2 week old computer from best buy that failed, hard drive i think. they said it would have to be shipped back the company to be fixed. this conversation was, our 3rd trip to best buy, son, wife and now me, this conversation was taking place at the front door of the store and was overheard by all of the other customers entering. as they invited me to "move" over to the service desk i stood my ground, took out my phone and announced i was calling the BBB, i was out the door with a new, better computer in 20 minutes. don't get angry but be firm. losing your temper will not help.

i'm confused. can you confirm that you replaced the trans computer or was it the ECU engine computer? and i was surprised to read in your post #9 in this thread that autozone could read trans codes through the OBD connection. (see below) this must be new for the 00 model year or i misunderstood. i know some problems will through both a CEL and a flashing AT Temp light, like an unpluged MAF sensor, but i didn't know autozone could read trans codes. i thought you had to do the connector thing. but i agree with what someone else said with all those trans issues it has to be a computer or wiring problem, not the trans. duh, you have already swapped the trans. did you ever identify what a code 87 is for the trans (8 long and 7 short)? how did the store read the other codes? the above listed codes all look like CEL codes, do / did you have a Check Engine Light? i don't mean to discount all you have done to figure this out, you have been working on it a long time and have done a lot. it must be frustrating. but i'm just a little confused.

yes, what he said. grab the whole knuckle and swap it onto your car, done. way less work than just trying to remove the tone ring. don't forget to mark your top strut bolt so you can get it back in the same position.

+1 for the windex. then after they work pretty well and are dry, how about some silicone spray?

buy a used one , it will probably out last your car. ww.car-part.com

sound like my son's 95 lego, trash piled up in the fron passenger side above the level of the seat. only slightly better than throwing it out the window. wait until you have to clean out an apartment so you can get the security deposit back. it has to be on the hand brake lever, anywhere else would be too expensive and exposed to the weather. i'll go look. yes, it's on the passenger side of the hand brake, down low mounted on the "hump". a small plunger switch on the hump and a tab sticking out from the brake lever to depress it. and a one wire connector which slides onto a spade on the plunger switch. that could have come loose. but the one time this happened to me it was "stuff" in the cubbyhole cutout for your fingers so you could grab the brake lever, too much stuff in there not letting the lever fully return. you can inspect the wire connector and maybe the switch by removing the 2 screws holding in the upper, rear most, console panel, the one around the hand brake. but to get to it to replace something you are going to have to remove the console. take a garbage bag with you when you go.