bleakhorizon

easy answers prob. not but maybe And yes

that hatch is gettn some pretty good air and I will say that prob hurt.... Im getting pretty good at setting up subarus for sand and massive air (for a soob) to where they dont break......a good tip is to reinforce your front subframe and radiator support...Ive bashed mine in pretty good and had to bend it down with i big ol bar....ALSO a 2.8l chevy radiator will fit in there without a hood....cool huh BTW its about time i show you my beast right now it looks the best it has for a while cause i gota new hood and fenders......the doors usually arnt on it so this picture is rare

well i riped er apart today and it wasnt even as hard as expected BUT you do need a 34 mm thin wall socket (not an impact socket) And what i found was beyond belief.....My reverse idler gear was completly gone, bout 4 teeth left.....Also i was missing a tooth off the the drive pinion.....and lastly im missing the three sincro keys for the 1-2 sincro...the instructer pretty much told me he was amazed that it still drove..... Lastly some info for people going to crack there tranny open. make sure you know where all the springs, ballbearings, and sprag bearings are in the transfercase. thats the only thing were there is a bunch of little peices. BTW i have access to numerious programs (mitchel transmissions and alldata) if anyone needs any info on it.......

sounds like a cv but ive never heard of em just letting go without other signs (like noise when turning)

well right now i have enough materials covering the transmission that i shouldnt have a problem (dirvetrain class at wyotech)....whats this about a special tool.... Anyway im pretty good at puzzles so i think i will be able to get it apart.

ah well yea i bought the car for the engine and it had no title so it was really just a toy at the time.....it wasnt in good condition either so it wasnt a waste.....and actually didnt hurt at all didnt break nothing either

This is all i got right now of the good ol wagon but its good for what it is...........Also got a video that i will try to get a capture off of that has the bratNrust jumpn a couch (round 4 feet in the air)

Finally getn round to tearing into the 4spd i got in the brat.....has no reverse.....Has anyone done this and if so are there any pointers that would be helpfull......also ive heard some things about a easy fix for the reverse problem (sticking in gear and clashing) anyone know anything about that........... Well i will keep ya all up to date on the progress and maybe get some pics....

i get optimas cheap cause a relative works for them so i have em in all my vehicles, But i will tell ya this if you live in an area that gets really cold or stays below freezing alot then you want a dry cell because ive blown up frozen batteries and let me tell ya what that is not a pretty sight in the engine bay......

how bout tryn (and accomplishing) to outjump a toyota with my brat at sandlake oregon and blowing both your front struts out at the same time......Hey they were stock..... or driving at night and maken a wrong turn in the sand and ending up being able to almost walk under your car cause your over a quad trail..... Or with my 83 wagon hitting a 4 foot snow drift and not having all 4 on the ground (In a safeway parking lot BTW) cops didnt think it was very funny but i did.............i got lots more but i wana find the pics of some of em....like hitting a 2 1/2 foot deep pond at 70 and skimmin it in my brat....that was awesome

i dont like bars leak because if you blow a head gasket and it gets in your cylinders it totally screws stuff up sorda like sand.....what ive used in the past (and had SOME luck with) is large unground black pepper....ive never used it for the heater core but it should work the same way just make sure you use alot of it

c now i was thinking about that to thats why i asked this question....Im not sure right now but i really want to bore it for some reason.....i havent even torn it apart yet so i dont know the specs. i will be looking very closely at the stress factor involved... there is a mathmatical equation based on the metals density that i can run throuh but i have no idea right now ah well when i get done i will post some dyno sheets and then we will all find out how it works

yea im going to custom grind my own cam and im planning on makeing some custom valve trains parts..was planning on porting and polishing to the extreme and wanting to make my own intake and exhaust........does anybody here have experiance on dual delortos and if they work ok or not.....i dont really like webers but i will use um if i have to.....wy delortos.....im looking for prettymuch one carb a cylinder hoping it will flow that good

well al i can say is that its the most rediculas thing,,,,and it sucks oh well i guess why is this a smilie any way its disturbing:D

yes if you spin a bore it is because you are trying to take to much off or your bit is dull.....worked in a machine shop in my hometown and did many engines. I want to stay carbed and was wondering if a 2.0 or 2.2 block would be better for boring/stroking....I know i know no replacement for displacement but i would like to keep the 1800 block so it looks stock sorda...... yes the shifter is sloppy :madder: but i bent it and hammered it and lots of crap i dont think it is the problem, i will soon have it out and disassembled to find out thou.... BTW i wouldnt need to find a crank i will be able to make a stroker crank, sweet huh