cap86

Thanks, all. No odd noises at all, I adjusted the belt to no avail. Jiggling/wiggling the alt wires has no effect and one morning I unplugged the wires and heated that plug separately - didn't make any difference. I think it's time to get a Subaru replacement alt.

Alt light comes on 1 minute after starting a cold engine. When the engine warms up to operating temp the light goes out and it charges. The speedometer jumps around while alt light is on then settles down rock solid when the light goes out. One cold morning I heated up the alternator (heat gun) and the alt light did not come on at all, it charged normally from cold start. Is this just a bad alternator (it's new) or could there be something besides the alternator causing this.,?

Similar problem - 95 Legacy - brake/shifter interlock solenoid will not activate. <<<NEVERMIND ! this was just a combination of simple problems, Loose grounds, blown fuse, wrong wattage bulb in 3rd brake light (someone put in 17watt instead of correct 12.5w)>>> <<<I'm going to edit in my discovered answers to my own questions>>> I was having brake light issues. The 3rd brake light was blown out and the socket was melted.<<<edit(wrong wattage bulb heated and melted the socket!)edit>>> When I apply brakes the RIGHT taillight and brake light go out. <<<edit( the ground screw for two bulbs heated up and deformed enough to break contact! very hard to see it... this may have also been caused by the wrong wattage bulb in 3rd brake light ?)edit>>> ( I also found a loose ground wire on the LEFT taillight making the taillights dim. I tightened it and the lights got brighter) while checking the 3rd brake light I think something may have shorted in the bad socket and now the Brake/shifter interlock solenoid will not activate. <<<edit( simple blown fuse from messing with the socket with the lights on!)eddit>>>

Thanks very much that is very helpful... The PDF also mentions the "inhibitor switch" I think this could be contributing to the problem as well. I've had some issues with the neutral safety switch. I pulled the knock sensor and it seems very clean (and simple) is that a switch that is known to fail? The most difficult part was reinstalling it while keeping dirt from falling onto the contact area. Again, thanks for the useful info! Regards, CAP86 P.S. you mentioned "endwrench" article... is that the PDF "insider info link that you supplied, or is there some other source that I'm not aware of?

My 97 legacy 2.2 runs fine for a while then stumbles with lo-power and vibration until I stop the car, and restart the engine. then it runs good until next episode. it's showing a 1507 code (idle control system malfunction (fail safe). I replaced the air control valve hose - from air cleaner bottom to ACV (it was partially (10% +/-) obstructed with crud build-up) and I sprayed some injector cleaner into the ACV but I couldn't see any obstruction. I cleaned or replaced other hoses in that vicinity that looked bad. I also replaced the fuel filter. The engine runs fine otherwise. (there is also a code 0135 - o2 sensor. and a 1325 knock sensor)

Thanks, That helps!

97 Legacy L Wagon Backup lights are out fuse is good sockets are clean... where is the light switch located?

I don't think I have an 88 I'll have to check. should have an 87 I have a few complete engines that were good when parked but they've been sitting and would have to be gone over. Def. have good D/R tranny and trim pieces Don't think I have a manual mirror. might have clearance light Have lift door panels. I need to look around and do an inventory and lhave better answers by this weekend.

I have more than I need - anyone needing parts cars or parts? (Near Scranton PA) Mostly 85-87 wagons

I get the same problem (95 legacy w/high miles). The car is very solid otherwise, but when the temp is either, single digits overnight, or if it sits for several days in the cold it will not start. usually I can power through it and just crank for 20 seconds or more a few times it tries to start and even starts enough to almost outrun the starter... but it DOES NOT LIKE THE COLD. As soon as it warms up to the 20's (F) or so it will start with no problem. My son has a 95 Soob engine in his Vanagon and this week he had the exact same problem... cold - cranks away but no start. soon as the outside temperature warmed up it started with no problem. We are thinking; "Trash in fuel lines/lost pressure or Gasket/vacuum issues". Electrical connections seem fine otherwise and no other fuel-pump symptoms...

Thanks much. C

Sorry I know this has probably been covered ad nauseum but I'm an older Sooby guy and need to find the answer for a buddy. Getting conflicting info on a 2000 impreza/outback sport 2.2L SOHC engine. Anybody know for sure whether this motor is interference or not? thanks C.

precisely, i need an ea81 to swap in or take parts from, unfortunately,i'm having trouble with that.

I recently pulled the ea81 from my 82 brat, suspecting a blown head gasket, as i noticed oil and water leaking in the event which settled her into my garage for almost 2 years. could not find evidence of a blown gasket though, but i did find a broken piston and spun bearing in #1 cylinder. also some ring pieces in the oilpan. rod bearing on #1 completely worn through and significant damage done to the crankshaft(about .060" worn away). what else could this have damaged? i am wondering what my best/quickest/cheapest/most reliable option is for getting this project completed, not limited to keeping the ea81, rather making a cross-country worthy brat in the soonest way possible. i have much more info about my situation, just wanted to get this out there asap. thanks - cap86('s son)

Thanks for the replies. The car is relatively new to us and needs a complete tightening up and going over. I AM concerned about what would make it break and will check out those mounts ASAP

The bar on top of the engine. not sure what it's called, it anchors the top of the engine to the firewall near the spare tire, keeps it from pitching back & forth under torque. Anyway on our 85 Brat it snapped... is it safe to drive until we can get it replaced?

I've been paying my local Subaru Guy (Happy & satisfied for many years) for routine maintenance & replacement jobs however at this time I need to save some money and take on things like axles brakes mufflers etc. myself. I'd like to avoid some of the common mistakes & get it right the first time. Is there a big difference in cost of pads from Subaru vs. Auto parts houses? do you get the right clips with them? how about those flat & smooth surface plates that go between the pads and the caliper? Do you need to get them from Subaru? Not looking for performance or anything special, just a nice balance of cost, longevity, & quietness Also the rotors, any plusses and minuses between Subaru and others? is there a big difference in cost?

Just curious, can the nut loosen with a cotter pin in it?

OK next quextion. Replacement boots cost $5.... $15.... and $40 (+/-) online. $40 = Dorman $15 = EMPI $5 = Ohno (!?) (is that name trying to tell us something?) is there a difference in quality / results? is there a difference in Material Also if the old boot looks good (i.e. never torn) is it ok to just squeeze in some more grease (if so what kind) and put new boot on. or remove all old grease and replace with new. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Oh and one more thing. MWE gives $25 core charge but shipping has got to be around $25 right? why bother

Any strange noises or shifter suddenly feeling different when this happened or was it just a situation like - it worked yesterday when parked and now it doesn't.