lekmedm

I've been meaning to come back to this thread for quite some time... So, to sumarize, position 2 on the switch does not blow while 1, 3, and 4 all work fine. I replaced the resistor pack and still have the same problem. As suggested, I took apart the switch, cleaned it out and put in new grease. This did not help. What's next?

He mentioned that he checked at the very beginning of his post. He even replaced it, even though the original looked OK.

What type of grease or lube should be used?

I just replaced the resistor pack on my '98 OBW. The number 2 position on the fan wasn't working. Well, to my disappointment, this didn't fix anything. What now?

Well, here's the latest, and hopefully that last bit of news for this thread. I had the dealer go ahead and just do the HG replacement. It cost $1688 including machining the heads.As far as the knock is concerned.... yes, there's a knock. However, it seems to me that it is more of the piston-slap variety rather than bad bearings. It's worse when the engine is cold. It doesn't completely go away after fully hot, but it's not as noticeable. Oh, well. I think I might change over to Mobil 1. Maybe that'll help a bit. Thanks again for everyone's advice!

Hello all... Well, I'm looking to replace the engine in my 98 OBW and I wanted to know what other years and/or models used the 2.5L DOHC engine? For example, did this engine go into the Forester also?

Can anyone recommend a source for a replacement 2.5L DOHC phase I engine? I called CCR Engines, but I'm afraid that those costs are just out of my budget, even though it would be the best solution. Where can I find an engine that I can have a fair degree of faith in it that it won't have any big problems? I've never had this kind of situation and don't know exactly what to do to have some peace of mind without breaking the bank. Thanks.

Well, The dealer just called me and said there's a knock in the engine. Now I don't know what to do. He's saying it would be most cost effective to just replace the engine, but I'm thinking if I get one from a salvage yard I may end up with one that is also full of problems. CCR wants over $3000 for one incl. shipping. ...and then the cost of install... I can't afford that. What am I supposed to do? If I tear the engine down myself, what will I need to put it back together, I mean what's causing the knock? I'm no mechanic, but considering what the potential costs may be, I might just try this on my own after all. So I'm asking for ideas/opinions. What are my options?

So here's the latest installment to my saga.... I took the car for a ride to warm things up and to also check the fans. They work just fine. I did this time find a few bubbles coming up in the reserve tank. I'm fairly positive that there is no more air in the system after the drain, so it looks like I have the beginnings of HG failure. I called around to a few dealers in the area and am shocked at the range of costs they have quoted me. I'll be going to the dealer in Bethleham, PA who quoted me at $1400 - $1500 for the whole job. Some were quoting me as high as $2500!!!! Anyway, for better or for worse, I'm going to have a dealer work on it. I was considering doing it myself, but I don't feel that I'm quite that competant, it would take me forever, and this is my wife's car, so it needs to be done right. Keep your fingers crossed.

Yeah, I certainly don't drive around with the needle on "H" for any time. I would usually stop, let it cool down, add more coolant and make it home. This time, however, I was close to home so it was a minute or less. What was interesting this time is that the system pulled back in everything from the reserve tank which was full after this incident. It didn't do that before and would just leave it full. Anyway, I have a bad feeling in my gut that it may end up being the dreaded HG issue. The idea about the fans is certainly worth checking. I know there have been write-ups on changing the head gaskets, but I'd like to hear from anyone who has actually done it how difficult would they rate the job. I'm by no means a mechanic, but can follow directions very well and can do a fair job of troubleshooting when unforseen problems arise. I'm not interested in tearing down the whole engine. I just want to fix this problem. I bought this car for my wife to drive especially in the winter and have already had all new brakes put on as well as new winter tires. I can't afford to put crazy money in the dealer's pockets.

Bad news everyone..... I still have my problem. Here's the rundown... I drained out all the coolant and replaced the thermostat with an OEM. (While I was down there I noticed that the spark plugs were accessable, so I replaced them, too, but that's a subject for another thread.) So today I take a nice ride of over 100 miles with stops, and this is what happened. With nice, even acceleration everything was just fine. There were no problems whatsoever for over 100 miles. I could even drive at 70-80 mph and the temp was good all the way. At the end I indulged in a little bit of "spirited" driving that included some harder acceleration, and BOOM, the temp shot right up! It was good that I was close to home. When I opened the hood, the whole area around the battery was wet with coolant again and the reserve was also full. I don't get it. If this was a head gasket problem, wouldn't it exist all the time under all conditions? I did the check of filling up the radiator and starting the car with the cap off to check for bubbles - nothing! Could the water pump be failing??? Please help! I really don't want to spend any more money on mechanics for this car.

I agree about the cost for replacing the HG's. The hair on the back of my neck stood straight up right before I passed out when I heard the price! I will say, though, that I believe I've seen others here on the board quote similar prices from their dealers, so I'm not completely surprised. So anyways, I started working on the car last night. I got the coolant all drained out. No oil in the coolant. I understand that it is a potentially good sign, although not definitive. You know, while I was waiting for the coolant to drain and was layingon my back under the car, I noticed that it may be not so bad to get at the spark plugs from under the car. I've been meaning to change the plugs and wires (I've been reading on how to do this here as well). It was a PITA since it was my first time on a Subie, but I pulled the two from the driver's side so far. So here's another question to you all. When there is HG failure, is there anything you can see on the plugs? Mine are actually in great shape with a nice, normal grey coloring to the tips. I believe that's normal as opposed to black gunk on them or something similar. Tonight I should finish things up. I'll pull the other two plugs, put in all new plugs and a new wire set, refill the radiator, and keep my fingers crossed. Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and links. Keep 'em comin'!

Well, this morning I picked up a t-stat at my local Subie dealer. I've got coolant, and distilled water, so now I just need the time to pop it in. While I was at the dealer, I asked what a head job would cost. For $2200 - $2500 they pull the engine, tear down just about the whole thing, and put it back together with all new gaskets, seals, and the like. The thought of spending that kind of money just twists my innards.

I tried this test, and there were no bubbles coming from the open radiator cap. Actually, what would happen was the coolant would back up and overflow, so I see that's why my overflow tank is full. Does this really mean the HG are still OK??? Could it really be as simple as changing the thermostat??? Where is the t-stat located? I guess it's worth trying before going to the mechanic and spending big bucks. One thing that was previously interesting is that when the temp would rise up to "H", it would then fall back to the normal range, usually in a short time. Is the t-stat sticking? Edit: I think I should add that there have been times when the temp guage has been in the normal range, but the heater would not blow hot. More evidence that it's a t-stat problem, or am I kidding myself?

Well, my temp guage often, but not always, fluctuates, sometimes spiking completely to "H" and staying there. I've been adding up to a quart of coolant sometimes. The reservior is often full. What's interesting in this is that the whole battery and area around it are splattered with coolant. I can't find any other signs of leaks. I replaced the radiator cap (13lbs. from NAPA), but that didn't solve anything. Is this a pressure problem? I pray the HG aren't going, and yes, it's the 2.5L. Why is the area around the battery all wet??? The floor in the garage is clean, so no drips. Is all the coolant being blown out the top somewhere? I would think the engine would run very well if the coolant was going out that way, and it runs just fine. Help! Please!

Contact Toney at John and Phil's Toyota and Subaru in Oregon at subaruparts@johnphils.com. She just sent me a resistor pack for about $43 with shipping. I have yet to put it in.

That sounds like it may be a good idea. Actually, I had a problem with one of my current tires that wasn't repairable, so I just had a set of Nokians put on for the winter. Now I have some time to hunt around for rims for the summer! Maybe I'll take a trip out to that place in Easton some day when I have time to kill. BTW, what is the wheel size for a '98 Legacy Outback?

I'm actually interested in getting an extra set of factory wheels so that I have a set for summer tires and a set for winter. Does anyone know where I can get a decent set for my 1998 Legacy Outback?

Thanks for the advice, everyone!

Ah, thanks for the clarification. I see that in the time I was composing my last post, you were already replying. Should the car be standing level when draining the rear diff, or can it be up on ramps?

What's a crush washer??? I think I noticed a washer associated with the oil drain plug as shown in the owner's manual. Is that something that regularly needs to be replaced? What kind of ru...? It's in my sig. I thought everyone could see it. I can. It's a 1998 Legacy Outback 2.5L ATX with about 137,000 mi on it now. BTW, by 1/2" square drive, do you mean the square end to a 1/2" ratchet for sockets? I have a Mercury that uses a 3/8" square end ratchet to get out the ATX drain plug. Am I right in understanding it's the same idea?

I've been itching to change the oil in the differentials of my new, used, high-milage Subie. What kind of fan-dangled square shaped tool do I need to open the drain and fill plugs in the rear? Do I use the same in the front? Also, I'm tempted to completely open the rear pumpkin as it's completely wet and hasn't been out in the rain. I'd like to have a good look at what's in there and give it a good cleaning. Is there a special gasket under the cover, or can I just squeeze one out of a tube?

Well, I'm going to revive an old thread since I have an extra question on this subject... I have the typical clearcoat problem, and I'm interested in refinishing the wheels myself. I'm NOT interested in powdercoating. So I'd like to know what kind of clearcoat should I use. Are we takling about some sort of automotive clearcoat like for painted surfaces that comes in a spray can from an automotive store? Will that hold well to the aluminum? What's the best way to wipe down the aluminum before clearcoating to be sure it will hold? ...alcohol? ...acetone? I don't mind putting in the elbow grease to polish up the wheels. I just want the final effect to last a while once it's done. I live by "Do it right the first time!" Thanks everyone.

Could someone who's familiar with the central New Jersey/eastern PA region tell me where the local salvage yards are? I guess the best would be one of those "yank-it-yerself" places. I've heard that there are some good places in PA. I'm in Clinton Township, so easy access to I-78. Thanks.

I've been looking for a dog barrier also. 1st Subaru Parts has what I think is an OEM one for about $125. On the other hand, I think I'd try this one from eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dlx-PET-DOG-BARRIER-SUBARU-OUTBACK-FORESTER-LEGACY_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6779QQitemZ8013341314QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW For $24.95 plus $12.00 shipping, I think it's worth a try. Also, I guess you could try to find one of those rubber mats that covers the whole cargo area. That should make for a fast clean-up. Later, you can pull out the mat and hose it off!