89hatch

Yeah, I've jacked up where Subaru recommends for the factory jack and after hearing a lot of crunching and seeing the jack start to put a hole in the floor, I let it down and jacked up on the crossmember.

Great info. Keep us updated and pics are always a big plus!

I'll be replacing the duty C with a new one this weekend. I'll be taking pictures, but if anyone wants any specific pics or voltage readings, let me know with detail exactly what you want. I'll update with results hopefully next week.

Great info, thanks guys!! Ron, did you need any special tools to do the struts? Like a spring compressor or something to compress the strut? I replaced the cv joint so I've had the two bottom strut bolts out. I don't want to take the tops ones out and have the thing jump out doing damage. Thanks

Awesome find, congratulations!! I love my 95. Have fun and welcome to the new generations.

I'm going through the saem thing with my 95 Legacy, but mine is throwing a duty c code on startup. I priced the needed parts: new duty c (31942AA061) plate under duty c (31952AA030) 2 gaskets between duty/plate & plate/case (31954AA071) gasket between rear housing and main case (31337AA120) 1st Subaru was cheaper on the parts, but they have a 9.95 min on shipping. So total was 88.66 Subaru Genuine Parts has a $7.25 min on shipping. Total was 88.02. Your part numbers may be different since mine is a 95, but it gives you an idea. Good luck.

I agree. Now granted, I've only done one on a subaru, my 95 Legacy, but everything came right off. I even have a torch and didn't use it. I used a 3/8" ratchet for the tie rod end, a 3/4" ratchet for the axle nut and a 1/2" breaker bar and pipe on the strut bolts. Even the ball joint popped right out with a few strikes on the ball joint sperator. I consider myself blessed after hearing everyone else's horror stories:eek:

WOW, that looks really bad. Especially that ring gear:eek: If you are parting it out, I'd be interested in the Duty C Solenoid and maybe the clutch pack. Both are in the rear housing. Let me know if you would be willling to sell them. Thanks.

Great post...I did not know that:D Maybe before ordering any parts, I should remove the tail end of the trans and take a look at the plate. Maybe I'll get lucky and there are obstructions in it. Is there anyway to test with a volt meter to see what's going on without taking the tail shaft off? Like voltage at the FWD fuse holder or anywhere else? If so, what should the voltage be and when? I don't have torque bind, but the opposite: No light when I put a fuse in the FWD and it seems like it's always in FWD(tried it in the rain). Thanks for the insight.

Here's a link to a thread about my issues with the duty C I'm currently going thorugh http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63094 At the bottom of page three is the link to Wayne's thread from 2004.

Yep, he's right. Search for his thread from 2004 with his 96 Outback. There are also a few FSM scans in that thread. I printed it out and used it to diagnose my blinking Trans Temp light using nothing but this thread just this past weekend. I've done all the work myself to keep prices down. One question, what is the manifold switch you're referring to? It looks like there's 2 gaskets and a plate between the duty C and the trans housing. Where's the manifold switch and what does it do? Thanks

Wow, great info. I searched high and low for topics, but somehow missed this one. Thanks

Pull fuse #14 in the fuse block under the dash on the driver side for at least 1 minute.

Nipper, I'll be trying the duty C only repair myself and would sure love to take a look at that pdf as well. Although I thought it required removing the tail end of the tranny since that's where the duty C is located. Either way, could you please send it to cbarrls6(at)msn(dot)com? Thanks

I was at my local dealer last night asking the parts guy some questions and I stopped by the service counter. I just got a 95 Legacy a couple weeks ago and asked the guy if he could look up any past repairs that were done on the car. I gave him the last 6 of the VIN and he printed out all the Warranty work the car had done when it was newer. It shows the date, what needed done, and even the cost. He said the Subaru dealers only share warranty work with each other. I bought my car in the next town over, so I may visit that dealership to see of they have any past non-warranty records...like timing belt:brow: . No sense in spending money on things that were recently replaced. Of course if your car was never taken to the dealer, they won't have much, but there should be at least any Warranty work that was done. Myabe everyone knows this already, but it was new to me. Plus, best of all, it's free:banana: