AEROCOOK

I don't know what it came out of but it's a TY752VACAA, the same as the one that was originally in the car.

I just installed a used manual transmission in my 98 legacy L (exact same part number) and now I think I have torque bind happening, it seems okay going straight but binds while turning. Tires are new, evenly worn and properly inflated. I've searched the forum for info on this issue and the number of posts is almost overwhelming and I'd like to get some information that is specific to my application, 1998 Legacy L AWD manual transmission. I'm looking for testing procedures, or ideas on what may be causing the issue. My son and I spent the better part of a day installing this transmission last weekend so I'm a little bummed that it's not working well, I did get a 90 day warranty with it but I shudder at the thought of having to do the job all over again. Please help!

I had a few noises coming from mine too, one of them was the licence plate, I stuck a piece of foam behind it and that fixed it. Another noise was the rear interior trim panel, it had come loose and a few of the clips had popped out of the holes in the tail gate. The third noise was more of a squeak that I fixed by putting a dab of Vaseline on the rubber stops.

I finally found a tranny, it's an exact match so there shouldn't be any issues with the install. I found the transmission at one of those Japanese parts distributors, it has 153,000 km and was apparently tested prior to removal. The cost of the transmission and a new clutch came in at just over $1000, more than double what I paid for the car, I guess that's the cost of teaching a 17 year old how to drive stick. Thanks for all of the help, and a special thank you to johncleggleston for stopping me from buying the wrong one, I was less than an hour from going to pick that one up.

I told the seller the tranny wasn't a 3.9 but rather a 4.11 and as I expected, he referred me to the numerous application charts on the net stating that it was a 3.9. I told him the charts were all wrong and that he could count the teeth on the ring gear to confirm it's a 4.11. (37 teeth is a 4.11 correct?) Either way, he wasn't too disappointed because he bought the tranny for his outback and was only re selling it because he needed a 4.11 and mistakenly believed that this one was a 3.9. My search continues for a 3.9.

Thanks so much for this info. Why is there so much conflicting information out there on these Subaru trannys? I assumed (yeah, I know) that subarugears.com would be credible site for this kind of info by virtue of it's name but I guess not? Gearhack also shows it as a 3.9

I looked up the specs for the exact part number thats on the transmission and it say's it's a 3.9. The seller is also telling me it's a 3.9 so I think I'm good to go. At this point I'm more concerened with compatibility of electrical plugs, clutch fork and things like that. I've read that as long as the ratio is tha same, it will work so I'm going to buy it and get started right away.

The only advice I would offer is to put new head gaskets into your doner motor before you install it. and also timing belt and water pump since you would have it apart.

Thanks for the reply, To be honest, I expected someone to tell me that. Regardless of the origin of the transmission, I know that it is a 4W-TY754VCBCA, an internet search of that part number indicated that it fit an Outback but perhaps in a different market?? Anyhow, I believe that the 4W-TY754VCBCA is a 3.9 ratio tranny (can you confirm this?) and if so, is it a direct swap? Thanks.

The 5 speed manual transmission on my 98 Legacy L wagon (2.2 litre) is shot and I need a little guidance in finding a suitable replacement. As I understand it, my vehicle has a 3.9 final gear ratio so I need to find a replacement with the same ratio. The main question that I need answered is whether a transmission from a 2004 Outback with 3.9 gears will work? The 04 has a 2.5 l motor and mine is a 2.2, does this present any problems? Other potential issues is hydraulic clutch vs cable, can a hydraulic equipped trans be converted to cable? Any help would be appreciated.

My 97 Legacy OB wagon has a very annoying feature that I would like to disable if possible... Soon as you start the car, the doors lock and it's driving me nuts! Ive lost track of how many times Ive locked myself out of the car while it's running and I hate it! The car has an after market "Prime" remote starter (I dont have the manual for it) and it's fob / transmitter also controls the remote door lock and unlock functions. I dont know if it is this device that is controlling this feature or if it's a normal Subaru function. Can anyone help?

I have no Idea how old the timing belt is so that is definately on my "To do" list. I have checked and can confirm that the brakes are not dragging and the parking brake is not dragging either. Tires are new and properly inflated. I plan on doing a complete tune up including PCV valve and new timing belt in the very near future and after a few fill ups I will let you all know if there is an improvement. BTW do you know how to decarb using Seafoam? I have a can but Im not sure on how to get it into the intake.

Thank you for the replies. I didnt want to be too long winded in my original post so I didnt get into details about recent repairs etc. but I will do so now... Brakes rotors and pads front and rear are new including 1 rear caliper that was dragging, all is well now. Transmission fluid is new as I had to replace the lever for manual valve in the valve body. I also replaced the shifter cable and had the inhibitor switch off during that repair, I know that it is out of adjustment by a little bit because sometimes I have to give the shifter a nudge forward to get the car to start. (Would that cause P1101?) The car has 322,000 kms on it so a tune up is warranted and I will be doing it this week. I have a can of seafoam and would like some tips on how to use it, can anyone offer advice? The P0400 code has me puzzled, I manually depressed the diaphram on the valve and the idle went way down which leads me to believe that the EGR tube is not plugged, so I dont know whats triggering the code.

After a year of sitting in my garage I finally got my 97 Legacy Outback wagon on the road, it's an automatic with the 2.5 motor. In order to licence the car, I had to have an emissions test done and the car passed all 3 categories on the test with flying colours. Although the car seems to be running well, the check engine light is on and the fuel economy is terrible, around 400 kms to a tank. I scanned for DTC codes and came up with P1101 P0400 and P0141. Im not clear on code P1101 but I know that P0400 is EGR flow malfunction and P0141 is O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction bank 1 sensor 2. I was told that this O2 sensor would not affect fuel economy if it went bad, but at 400km / tank, I have to question that theory. Any thoughts or advice?

Well it cost me 6 bucks but I now know what the mystery part is. As you can see in the picture, the part was just spread / bent apart which is why I couldent find anything that it fit onto. The picture shows the original one next to the new one. I ordered the part because based upon the part schematic in the manual, there was a part missing in my tranny. I was hoping the missing part would solve the mystery and it did. Many thanks to nipper for providing me with the service manual pages.

Yep. I know that now. My reason for trying to remove the arm was because the centre bushing of the shift cable was seized onto it. I got the cable off but the rubber insulator and the bushing wouldnt come off and there is zero room to get tools in there to pry or chisle etc. I ended up using a Dremel tool with a grinder tip to get it off.

Many thanks to nipper for taking the time to email me the FSM transmission pages. I was able to determine that I am missing a part that may or may not include the clip that I found in the pan. I ordered the part today, it was $7 CDN but as luck would have it, no stock in Canada. The parts guy told me it would likely take a week or so to get it... I'm hoping the item has the clip attached to it so that I can have piece of mind before I reassemble.

Well if nothing else, at least I got bumped back to the top of the forum! Im going to drop by the dealer with the part to see if any of their techs can offer some guidance. Thanks.

Hi all. Been away a while because I wasn't driving a Subaru, but I picked up a 97 Outback recently so Im back. Here's my dilema... while replacing the shift cable I managed to bend a part inside the auto transmission, it is the part that engages the manual valve in the valvebody and also attaches to the park pawl rod. I removed the tranny pan to inspect and repair and I discovered a spring clip in the bottom of the pan. I believe the clip likely fell of at the same time as I bent the other part because the clip is steel and if the vehicle had been driven with the clip in the pan it would have likely found it's way to the magnet but it hadn't. So, can anyone identify this clip and tell me where it goes?

Can anyone provide the torque spec for the knock sensor?

Thank you, I do recall seeing that part and I really appreciate your effort to find and post the picture. I live in Ontario and the old Legacy has to pass an emmisions test by June or she's off the road. I initially ruled out that part because I thought I read that the MAP sensor had 3 wires. Going to replace knock sensor this week and see if the light comes back on.

Yes, it seems knock sensor failure is common on Subarus of this vintage and I have one on order. As for the MAP sensor, what does yours look like? I have looked at everything on the pass side strut tower but not really sure what Im looking for. The item that I thought was the MAP sensor is bolted directly to the manifold is kind of cylindrical in shape with a grey adjustable cap on top.

My CEL has been on for a while and the fuel economy has gone down the tubes. I pulled codes P0325 and P0106 out which I believe are knock sensor and MAP sensor respectively. Is it possible that these 2 codes are related? If the knock sensor fails I understand that the ECU will retard the timing to protect the engine from detonation, Is it possible that this can affect the MAP sensor at all? Also, I just want to confirm the location of the MAP sensor it's on the manifold pass. side has 3 wires identified with ABC right?

Thanks Nathan. I had thought about the release bearing hanging up, but I hadnt thought about the hydraulic system. Thanks for the input, if and when the problem is resolved, I will post.

My father in law's 2002 Legacy is experiencing intermittant slippage, almost feels like the clutch slipping. My experience with worn out clutches is that it is not an intermittant thing. The problem seems to fully correct it's self after a few seconds and the slip is completely gone. It has been to a dealer for diagnosis and after a test drive, the technican declared that the clutch is operating normally. This phenomenon has occured 4 times in the past month or so and has happened at various operating temperatures, any ideas on this one?