color-blind

You are correct evap codes will not cause driveability issues, yet they should still be fixed. If your mechanic doesn't understand how evap. systems work;find a new mechanic. Most evap. problems are not caused by loose gas caps. If a shop can't fix an evap. problem they shouldn't be in business. Be fair warned those who don't understand the system will toss a lot of parts at it; at your expense of course. Good luck.

What is the year and model of your car? Converter codes are usually correct; unless you have an exhaust leak. Oxygen sensors do not nomally cause converter codes. Yet an air fuel ratio sensor can go bad and damage a converter; thus causing converter codes. I've seen many that come in for converter codes then come back later with codes stored for an air fuel ratio sensor failing.

Air mass meters and front air fuel ratio sensors will not allways code. Yesterday I had a 2000 outback with a bad hesitation off idle and no codes. To properly diagnose them you need a factory scan tool. Watch the fuel trim on the front air fuel sensor if it staying around -25% then most likely you have a failed air fuel sensor.

Sounds like your air fuel ratio sensor has failed. Basically it is the front oxygen sensor. Good luck

Does the vehicle ever stall? I would suggest looking closely at the air mas meter. Good luck.

This is normal.

Replace the blower motor and the resisitor. The blower motor is drawing too many amps. Good luck.

Replace left and right side fuel tank sending units. Common problem. Good luck.

You need a vacuum pump in order to check the system. First apply vacuum to egr valve-engine not running-it should be able to hold a vacuum. If not replace the valve-yet usually the egr valves do not fail. Then start the engine-at idle apply vacuum to the valve. The car should die or idle very rough. If it does not you have plugged passages and will need to remove the egr valve and clean the ports. Then inspect the metal tube that comes off of the valve-it should be clean and not plugged with carbon. If the tube is plugged clean it. If all the above check good then replace the egr transducer. The above is the most common problems. Their are some other problems yet they are rare. Good luck.

If your viscous coupling has failed; don't bother changing the fluid; it won't help. I'm surprised a dealer mis-diagnosed this. We're your axles dead-ie. cv boots blown open or clicking? The viscous coupling can be changed without removing the transmission. All you have to do is remove the rear extension housing. We ususally charge between 4 and 6 hours. Good luck.

You are experiencing a voltage drop to the starter. The simple fix is to add in an additional power source thru a relay. Vw had this problem for years. You can purchase an add on starter relay kit that will take care of your problems. The part number is WR1- made by Bosch. Good luck.

First pull down the y-pipe and inspect the guides. It is possible that one of the guides has droped, though this is more common on the 2.2. Next perform a leakdown and compression check on cylinder #4. It is possible that you either burned a valve or have a tight valve. Make sure you find a Subaru shop that can adjust the valves with the engine in the car. Though if you burned a valve the engine will need to be pulled and the cylinder heads rebuilt. In addition make sure the egr system is not sticking on. Good luck.

What did they do with the flywheel? Surface it or replace it? Chances are they will not have heard of this before. Don't be surprised if they think your a little crazy. Good luck.

First off, make sure 100% that the parts we're purchased from a dealer. I've seen many shops claim to use oe parts; then to find out later they we're aftermarket. Did you do this job yourself? If not then I would want to see a receipt from the dealer on the parts. What was done to the flywheel? Was it surfaced or just "whizzy" wheeled clean? This balance issue is very hard to confirm. If the flywheel was turned; and oe parts we're installed I would install an oe flywheel. Subaru does not recommend flywheel surfacing. I know a lot of shops and dealers do it. Basically the mis-fire monitor on the phase one 2.5 is too sensitive. Good luck. Color-blind 20 year Subaru tech

Something is plugged. Very easy fix. Here is a link: Good luck. http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/fuel/WontTakeFuelInfoW00.pdf

The ecu monitors for misfires thru the cam and crank sensors. If their is a problem with thier relationship it sets mis-fire codes. This is a difficult diagnosis to determine; you should also check the valve clearances on the cylinders that have the mis-fires. If valve clearance is good then do the following; replace the clutch assembly with oe parts and install a new oe flywheel. Subaru will have all these parts in stock. Basically you are having a balance issue. Been their done that. Good luck.

Is your Forester a 5-spd model? If it is, was the clutch replaced recently?

Did you install the crankshaft seal first; then install the oil pumo on to the block? If you did you damaged the seal. Purchase a new o-ring and crankshaft seal from Subaru. Then first install the oil pump. After the oil pump is installed then install the front crankshaft seal. Good luck.

This is not something you want to do yourself. Either have the dealer take care of it or find a good independent Subaru technician. When you do this make sure to replace the 4 cam seals, water pump, thermostat and timing belt at the same time. Of course inspect the idler bearings and tensioner while your in their. With the vc gaskets be sure to replace the cam plugs, grommetts, and tube seals at the same time. In addition it wouldn't hurt to replace the ignition wires if they haven't been done within the last few years. Good luck.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2603&stc=1 Try this.

Here is a picture of the rear of a Legacy engine with the aluminum plate.

This is a common and easy problem to fix. Call your local dealer they will have all the parts in stock. First check the transmission ecu for codes if it has any codes stored follow that route first. For example if it has a code for the transfer clutch solenoid then be sure to replace the transfer clutch solenoid. Now for the common problem. Subaru sells an updated transmission extension housing for the automatic transmission. You will need to intall this housing and replace the awd clutch pacs. This can be done with the transmission in the car. You simply remove the rear driveshaft and then remove the transmission extension housing. If you need to have a shop do this for you the charge should be 3-4 hours of labor plus parts. The average repair is about $800-1100.

This is a common complaint on Subaru vehicles. You have a seal that is failing. Most Subaru dealerships do not rebuild transmissions, they simply install a rebuilt unit. You can try flushing the transmission and installing an additive of your choice. Though I am not too fond of band-aids in a can. Basically your transmission is starting to fail.

You have a cooling system issue. Basically the vehicle is trying to over-heat. You need to check the freeze frame data and report back. What I need to know is at what speed did the code set? Is the vehicle going thru coolant? It is possible for this code to be set by a failing head gasket. Yet the most common problem is a restriced radiator. In other words replace the radiator and the thermostat. As long as you are not going thru coolant. I've repaired this code at least 5 times now. It is begining to become a major issue on later model Subaru vehicles.

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