BruceY

can some one shead some light on whre that solenoid is?

Just noticed the nitwit in me listed my Subaru as a 90. IT'S A 1992 LOYALE DID 2k rpm thing and blinking did NOT stop. Same sequence

I thought that title would grab attention and get replys hehe So it seems it's just low on fluid, which I thought I did check but will check again:-\ Let me ask.....If I see it's full , Can the atf fluid go bad and break down since '92?

OK here's another issue to resolve. when I turn my steering wheel (either way) , I'm hearing a moaning what I believe coming from power steering pump. My power steering right now doesnt seem any problem, just the noise. The power steering fluid has never been changed and the Loyale has around 140k? Can it go BAD with that milage? How do I drain it? I had a '84 735i and I topped it off with power steering fluid. BIG mistake, it made same noise as my subbie. I had to drain and refill with auto-tranny fluid. WHAT would I use on this Loyale IF the fluid is giveing out:confused:

I installed the new temp sensor tonight and guess what....... my Loyale started right up so fast I'm surprised how that little sensor fixed my start problem. KUDOS TO SKIP THANK YOU SIR BRUCE

ok here it is 45 mins out in driveway, hood open, winds gusting to 30mph, 26 degrees here 9,500 ohms ??????

Just did some leg work, or should I say " let your fingers do the walking"? I called 2 auto stores and they said NO to carrying the sensor. I called my local subaru dealer / parts and have one on order. Lists for $81 but since I've bought alot from, I'm getting it for 65. I'll wait till close to 6pm and test again

Sorry SKIP, I'm in hyper mode with the cold / dark to get this figured out. I asked the questions before I noticed everything on the wonderful chart you posted, my mistake Bruce

Just got a 0.6 x 10k or 6,000 ohms at 5pm. I assume if let sitting till , say 5:30 or 6pm, ohms should go up. Contacts in that green connector look real clean should this check out ok,??????

if engine is warm/hot, what should multi meter show? ohm value or on/off. i've had car running and now is too hot to remove sensor for testing. but if i wait hehe it'l cool quick realy windy cold here:mad:

is it the green connector in the picture (hope it posted) or what it's connected to at the perceived themostat housing. It has 2 wires to it. The other is a single wire going to another area close by Can I remove the sensor without loosing too much antifreeze? The picture is poor due to limits here on size.

My '92 Loyale single point fuel injected engine has been a dream fast start up since I bought it new. No matter how cold here in NJ over the years, it started quick, and I could immediatly drive it. I didnt ave to let it idle to warm up to drive. I could drive it right off the get go even when temps dipped into the low teens. Last week , all of a sudden, it acts as if it has a old carberator with no choke. I have to pump the heck out of it to keep it running for a min or so. Then pump it to accelerate. Once the motor warms up it drives just fine. I believe my choke system has failed. Just waht I need now with temps in the 20's tomarrow:confused: ALL the fuses are good. It being throttle body fuel injected, I'm at a slight loss as to identifing compnentes on the throttle body. IF my fuses (under the dash) are all good, where do I begin to get my choke working again????

oRIGINAL CODE(S) were for O2 and purge control valve. see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61840&page=3 Could have it gone bad within 2-3 years, the O2 sensor? I will get another one if you think so. I did the resister trick on the purge control valve when it gave me a 35 code. Stopped the "check engine" light for a short while, maybe something else went bad.

HMMMMMMM NO RESPONCES?