RenaissanceMan
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Posts posted by RenaissanceMan
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Hi all! Its been a few years since I have posted here but hello to all! I am involved on a team at my university that is building a contraption of sorts. I was wondering if I could be pointed in the right direction about the following information:
What is the OEM subaru # for the power steering pump used on all the EA82's of the 80's??
Does anyone know who the ACTUAL manufacturer is of this pump? (Who did subaru buy them from?)
Does anyone know the displacement and relief valve pressure of this pump? We did some measurements a while ago to get an ESTIMATE on displacement per revolution, but we still have yet to actually know.
At present this pump is in the process of being modified to be the fluid source to a highly modified Toyota automatic transmission that has had the torque converter removed.
Thanks everyone!
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Hey guys, I know its been a long time since I have been on here. I have a full time job now that sucks cause I usually work 6 days a week, etc etc...
SO...
its a 71 FF1 4door. I could not tell what motor it had in it cause of the lack of light and excess of grease. All I know is that the car was sitting for 10 years, moved in the driveway (under its own power) then sat for another 10 years... Its got a dent in the back that isnt too bad...(from being backed into a pole apparently) Id say is plenty fixable... other than missing carpet pieces, damaged interoir door panels, and a different back seat, the car is pretty much complete. Has hub caps and some extra ff1 parts in the trunk. (air cleaners, starters, radiators, etc.)
THE THING THAT SCARES ME IS THE RUST. I see the usual spots like the bottom of the rear window, etc.. driver door has some icky rust. I wasnt able to access the passenger side to see how it compares... I wasnt able to get a good view underneath... So its really sorta a mystery as to how bad it is.
The guy thinks its worth $300 to him... I bet it could be taken for between $150-$200 if you haggled with the guy.
Steve, just so you know the hood seemed pretty clean, and this car was a runner when parked. (problems with front brakes apparently)
So long story short I don't know what to do here. Its a SMOG EXEMPT subaru, which, smog is REALLY what takes subarus off the road around here. On the other hand its just so much of a project I think it might be beyond my attention right now. If I didnt have my 77 stage 1 4x4 wagon I'd be all about it, but I'm kinda still leaning towards the wagon as a more important vehicle to me right now.
(In case you guys didnt know, I have 3 subarus right now and only 1 barely runs, so I DONT need more subaru projects.)
Does anyone want this car for restoration?
-Mike
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Of all the places to have one hidden, forgotten, I would have never thought smack in the middle of San Luis Obispo...
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I requested the time off already, so its all set for me as well. I am still not sure if I will be taking ol brownie or the silver car. Brownie still has broken trans mounts and a CV front that is starting to irritate me. the Silver GL needs new tires and some carburetor work still. *shrugs*
I guess we'll see which I tackle this next weekend? lol...
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Oh no, your fit is definitely worse than mine was, mine was off only by thousandths, 1/8" max, but it was just enough that I couldnt get the bolts in. I think Ill just run regular NA 1600 pistons in mine because I want about 10.5:1 compression... Might have to use 1800 pistons for that though, guess Im going to have to start using some math to make my ideas more realistic
On a side note, Ive been using studs to mount my intake manifolds and thermostat housings now, I can torque them to 20 lbs
instead of like 7. And it looks sweet, maybe look into having ARP make you a custom set, I just make mine out of B7 Metric threaded rods, but for something as trick as your car it would be killer to have a custom ARP set with 12 point Stainless nuts... Im gonna try this out on my water pumps too... Possibly the oil pump as well. Basically anything that has a gasket between it will get studs and stainless nuts.
-Bill
I like your "OCD-ness" on how you put your engines together(I too get anal-retentive about the appearance of my engines), however I hate to be the person that has to clean the gasket surface whenever something needs to be removed/replaced
Sometimes tighter is not always better either. Some gaskets are designed to "move" as parts expand/contract... should be fine for intake manifold/waterpump. I might be weary of studding the oil pump and pan gasket tho...
JUST INCASE PEOPLE DIDNT KNOW.. ARP makes 11x1.25mm studs that fit the block for the cylinder heads. I currently have a set in an airplane engine I am building right now.
STEVE! hey I just wanted to let you know that shaving the block gets more complicated than you think. Valve train geometry/pushrod length can become troublesome, as well as the amount you would have to mill off would probably be enough to remove the aluminum that is on the deck over the cylinder sleeves:eek:. Just so you know turbo pistons wont help you. they are lower compression because they have a big pocket milled out of them, but the piston face still reaches the same height around the edges.
Get me an exact difference in length of bolt alignment between your manifold, and the block w/cylinder heads and head gaskets installed.
If you dont mind the pushrod length issue, the cylinder heads can be forgiving to a considerable amount of machining (sometimes) or I llike the manifold "adaptor" idea if you can spare an extra 3/4 inch in height.
Best of luck
-Mike
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didn't read the last post, disregard... lol
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there's a certain board member here who grenaded the #4 on a 78 Brat.
I've had two self-destructed ea71s in the past from pistons giving up.
Such is life -
looking at a felpro fat-case gasket.. I recall ea81 gaskets also had some of the passages restricted/blocked.
My guess is that is has to do with restricting the flow so it circulates in the block & heads in a specific pattern to maximize heat absorption. the early ea71s did have problems with grenading pistons, perhaps this was a solution to these "hot spots"?
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the engine mount bolts are 10mm x1.25 and about 25mm in length. OEM ones will have a 14mm head on them, however if you buy them from the hardware store they will probably be a 17mm or 18mm head
just so you know there is no exhaust maniflold. You may have a cast thing on one of the heads (in 1981 I think it was on the passenger side if your car was equipped) thats about an inch thick that has the pipe for the air suction valve going to it... There is a Y-pipe that bolts to the heads and goes all the way to the passenger side of the transmission where it has another mounting point, hanging from the transmission... If you are missing any studs, those are also 10x1.25.. If you are missing the nuts I recommend you try and get some OEM ones from a dealer (they are the same as later models). The exhaust nuts are a non-ferrous alloy that wont seize (usually, lol) and also wont come loose when torqued properly..
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Actually you don't want to cap that third port on the solenoid - that's the vent port and allows the line from the solenoid to the EGR valve to vent to atmosphere when the solenoid closes - that breaks the vacuum in the line to the EGR and allows it to close if it happened to be open when the solenoid closes.
GD
The original OEM one didn't have it vented, thats why I capped it. Looking at the vacuum diagram, it looks like the solenoid doesnt directly control the opening of the EGR, but rather diverts it around an orfice, changing how quickly it opens relative to throttle position. (at least thats what I gathered)
HERES A VID OF WHAT MY ENGINE IS DOING..
I suppose I should note ahead of time that I am not actually out of gas... my sender/guage is wierd... it reads Empty with the light on sometimes, but once you drive it around for a few minutes then all of the sudden it starts working and reads the proper fuel level.
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So I investigated the EGR solenoid and discovered it had an open-circuit coil. I gladly took care of that replacing it with another solenoid that I had lying around. It had the extra air filter thing on the back, but I was able to remove that and put a vacuum cap on it, so now everything works like it should as far as the EGR goes.
I played around with the duty solenoids... Mini air filter is fine. Hoses flow air etc... I tried removing each of the carb hoses, exposing the air bleeds to atmospheric. If I remove the primary side one, it improves acceleration a TINY bit, but still stumbles. If I remove the secondary side, there seems to be no noticable difference.
I'm working on uploading a video to youtube that shows how the engine reacts. I forgot to mention that the gas tank was completely drained and fresh gas was put in it, and the problem was the same both before and after.
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So do you *need* the feedback system to pass your emissions tests? With the CEL on I would assume you don't.... but I ask anyway.
unfortunately yes, I am trying to get it operating properly so I can pass smog so I can finish the title transfer
When the carb was rebuilt did you remove the throttle shafts? And was there any play in them? I ask because setting the throttle plates in a touchy business and it's best if they are not disturbed.... if you can help it.
Thankfully no.. The throttle shaft play was ok, so I left the whole throttle plate assy alone, other than clean it really well.
The rich idle - is that warm or cold? I'm assuming warm as it would be normal for it to be rich when cold and I suspect you know that. On the feedback carbs there are two ports on the side - low speed and high speed "sensing" ports. The carb receives a metered amount of filtered air into these ports by way of the duty solenoids - they turn on and of at a frequency determined but the ECU. It's a sqaure wave signal and many modern DMM's will actually read duty-cycle so it's not impossible to troubleshoot the system. You may have an issue with a blockage on the low-speed circuit - less air gets you more fuel IIRC although it might be the other way around. At any rate this duty cycle is largely determined by the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor.
sorry I should have clarified that it is rich all the time, warm or cold, choke open or closed... even when the engine is off idle at persay 2000 to 2500rpm no load, it still smells rather rich
I have swapped the duty solenoid connectors with no change btw. Also disconnected them with no change.. Perhaps my little plastic air filter thingy is clogged??
The EGR is probably just the solenoid. An easy fix - just replace the solenoid with any 12v solenoid you have around.
I figured as much.. I was wondering however, doesnt the 3 nipple vacuum thermoswitch control what temp the egr functions at?
My only reccomendation is to source an EA81 feedback ECU and wire it in. They didn't use the MAP sensor.
Tempting.. I do have one lying around...
Thanks for the quick response and speaking my language GD... I'll play around with the duty solenoids some more, see if they are clogged, or the air filter is clogged, or whatever...
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OK this is for all the good experienced crowd with the dreaded hitachi carb.
Car: 1986 3door coupe ea82 Carbed, california emission, 5sp d/r 4x4. Only significant mods is that I moved the battery to the back, and the flywheel MAY have come from a different year.
Condition: Resealed motor, new valve job, new timing belts, new cap/rotor/plugs/wires/waterpump, rebuilt carb, etc etc etc... basically everything is tip top shape and it doesn't leak anything
. All this work was done before I ever tried starting it btw...Problem/Symptoms: Poor drivability. smells very RICH at idle(will quickly foul plugs). Idle occasionally changes between 500 up to 1100 rpm, but not rapidly changing. Upon acceleration, it falls on its face and stumbles, but you can force it up to high rpms. Really really gradual acceleration and the stumbling is less pronounced. No power but you can freeway drive it. on WOT acceleration, you can feel it surge.
Check Engine Light Codes:
EGR system
Pressure Sensor System (aka "boost" sensor, even though the engine has no "boost")
What I have tested:
Compression : 140ish on all 4 (my guage usually reads a little low btw)
Vacuum: LOW rapidly oscillates around 15 in.hg however if I advance the timing to like 30 deg. BTDC then the vacuum goes to a normal 19 in. and no oscillating
EGR Valve
Functions normally, slowly opens when throttle plate slowly opens (though it even does it when its cold, and I though it only started doing that when it warms up) Not clogged, not leaking.
Timing Belts:
yes even I doubt myself but I double checked them and they line up accordingly, with the little hole on the sprocket with the top of the timing cover notch with the 3 little marks on the flywheel etc etc etc...
Ignition Coil:
Swapped with another coil I had lying around. No change, spark is good. Engine is well grounded btw.
Carburetor: Float level is calibrated and float valve is functioning properly. Accelerator pump is functioning properly. Jets are clean and are the correct numbers per application. Choke functions properly. Car seems to run better when the idle mixture screw is closed all the way.
Timing:
factory 8 deg. BTDC and it runs like poo (infact barely runs) Advanced to about 16 deg BTDC and it runs OK but still no power. Advanced to 30ish and it has a high idle, but runs a lot better, hesitation almost completely goes away, still not full ea82 power, but better, and I worry about detonation going up hills. (yes I am using the green service connector to set the timing) I checked the timing upon acceleration and the advance mechanism does work as it should.
Pressure sensor:
Doesn't create a vacuum leak, so I can rule it out for now, because even with the computer disconnected the car will run mostly "normal"
PCV:
I can pinch off the hose that goes to the PCV valve itself and this has NO effect on how the engine behaves. PCV valve wasn't new, but it was cleaned upon reseal of engine. If you removed the hose you can hear it "rattle".
Exhaust:
Free flowing, has a flowmaster on it and is Plenty loud to suspect any plugging, plus it reacts different from any experience I have had with plugged exhausts
Vacuum lines:
Vacuum diagrams have been rechecked more times than fingers on my hand. (all hoses are new) upon replacing hoses, all the orphices were replaced in their proper locations
I think thats all the information I have... My only suspicions I can think of have to do with the tic marks on the flywheel being different if the flywheel perhaps came from a SPFI car?? Never ran into this problem before, but I wont rule it out.
Could my fuel return hose be plugged maybe?
anyway, this is what I have and any thoughts are MUCH appreciated.
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You guys get to have so much fun without the smog laws that we have down here in California...
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as far as underhood lights go, the 70's and 80s early Z cars have a small light under the hood that pulls apart, and has a long wire on it so you can use it where you need. switch is right on the light housing....
I keep one of these in my car. Works good for everything and water resistant.
available at http://www.allelectronics.com for $6
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I have actually already used it too. I had to replace the ECT on my manifold, and I was able to do so without spilling a drop of antifreeze, and was able to drain it into a clean container to reuse it even.
renisance man (sp) had that cool tap-into-the-coolant-drain-plugs for better draining post, (that's where I tapped into for my re-circulating block heater)
but his post had pics and he did a super clean job of it
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If you properly clean it, the only thing that comes to mind for me is a self-priming window urethane. I made some "high performance" engine mounts for my justy once using some of that stuff. it takes about a week to dry/cure properly.. but it WORKED to say the least.
-Mike
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right, after searching for months and months, ive now finally got hold of some webers, there IDF 40's and there a matched pair, in top qual condition, and for the price, im proper chuffed, £250, where as there usualy double that new!
http://img521.imageshack.us/i/bwihh6qmkkgrhgohdqejlll.jpg/
http://img269.imageshack.us/i/bwihvgmkkgrhgohcuejlllv.jpg/
http://img36.imageshack.us/i/bwihoegmkkgrhgohdqejlll.jpg/
should go nicely on the SUB 4 dualports!
CAN YOU STILL GET THE SUB4 DUAL PORTS??!?! I thought they went out of business... I'd love to be able to get some stuff from them if its still available.
BTW. thats an awful lot of carburetor for a tiny 1.8L, I hope it works out for you.
-Mike
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Mark, you know you are welcome to come down any time and take one of my ea71s from me... just about any day is good for me as long as I know in advance.
-Mike
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Yeah that was a typo, sorry bout that.. fixed it.. (its an 86)
Looks great but I think you typoed when you said 83.There were no EA82s in 83 in the US.
Must be a later model? 85+
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OK so I have an 86 3door that I have been doing TONS of work on, fixing up, modifying etc.. Well, so just so you guys know, wiring is my department. I came across a couple usefull tidbits if anyone is interested out there.
First off, as we all know, when you switch over to a digidash and start cutting and soldering wires... one thing that you have to deal with is the fuel level sender. The old school analog ones use a 2 wire, and the digidash ones use a 3 wire. I decided to take on this task and see what is involved in adding this circuit. Upon replacing the fuel level sender first, I noticed that the car actually came wired with 3 wires coming from the connector. So where does this 3rd green/yel wire get eliminated?
up here!! right after it goes thru the body harness/underdash connector, the wire changes to a black ground wire on the other side and therefore acts as the 2 wire circuit. Well all I had to do was clip the wire and add my own that only ran thru the underside of the dash over to the digital cluster. Its hard to see in the picture cause my camera doesnt focus very well, but if your looking at the female end as it sits in its plastic bracket (in the background) its the top left pin of the black connector.
OK!! now all I need to do is figure out the outside temperature thing and we're doin good...
SECOND wiring tidbit:
OK, so I have a light on my digidash (or even the analog guage cluster) for "rear tailgate open" or "rear hatch" or whatever... On my wiring harness under the dash it was pretty easy to find... Its a red/green wire if I recall (*note, dont confuse it with the several backlighting wires which are the same color) I attached the wire and thought nothing of it till I discovered that it wasnt working.
. It turns out that on the 3 doors (and I think the sedans too) they have the wire built in the dash harness, cause its universal as far as ea82 cars go (excepting xts), however.. it gets eliminated at that same body connector!! they have the wire go in, but connects to nothing going out. This got me really confused because I know my car came equipped with the switch..SO... it turns out that this wire doesnt do anything cool, except run to a connector only 1 foot away, for I suspect... some kind of interior light (I dont actually know yet because my car came missing the rear cover panel). So to make this grounding circuit usefull, I ran a wire thru the body up to that same black connector.
Heres a picture on on the dash end of the wire going into the connector:
Here is the female connector WITHOUT the pin as it is from the factory:
And here is after I added the extra pin:
YAY!!! ok so now if my rear hatch is open, the dash tells me!! why subaru didnt do this from the factory? I DONT KNOW!
*note: one thing you might notice by the way is that the pin for the rear hatch switch is the one DIRECTLY below the one for the fuel sender wire that I just modified as stated above...
OK people! so there you have it. Whether that stuff is usefull to you or not I dont know..
-Mike
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lol, I dont think I could have guessed the inside and outside diameters any better on that one. (I had more usable material this time so I had more choice as to the size of it)
Workin on the bellhousing. I'll let you know what I come up with.
-Mike
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I once stripped a black 86 hatch. was 2wd with a 5sp, regular old ea81... hmm
Doors and fenders Subyguy swapped with the ones on his brat, that is why the pinstriping is different, but the car was originally black...
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those are not for the egr, they are for the air injection system, basically fresh air is introduced into the exhaust ports to reduce hydrocarbons. After you have soaked them in kroil or whatever, try using a small pipe wrench. I have a 6" pipe wrench for tubing nuts that require more than a flare nut wrench will give, however a 6" pipe wrench is VERY hard to find, and an 8" one will probably fit the space confinements.
good luck
-Mike
RANDOM EA82 Power Steering Trivia -Needed for project ASAP
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
THANKS!!!