RenaissanceMan
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Posts posted by RenaissanceMan
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well no title, i got it for cheap, so im planning on making it an off road toy
Its not the end of the world to actually remove the tumbler from the column... (though if I recall two of the fasteners are factory stripped as to not be easy to remove, though this can be resolved with a drill and some new fasteners from the hardware store, etc). on several occasions I have just taken the tumbler down to the locksmith and for $30 he was able to make me a key just from reverse engineering the way the tumbler was coded.
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Has anyone thought about the width these will cause. It might be fine for people going up but for those going down kinda hard to tuck in these wheels as it is. If you add a half an inch to that there going to stick out more.
Just a Thought.
Ben
I've done some head scratching over a lot of things with these darn wheel adaptors... lol you are only looking at one side of them machined.. the other side will be a LOT more involved to say the least, in the end you will have an extra .600" of thickness to deal with, which isnt too bad compared to most bolt pattern adaptors. The "theory" is anyway that the 4x100 or 5x100, etc... adapted patterns will have availablilty for wheels with better offsets to keep those rubbers tucked under the fender
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Solved some design issues and they are being worked on... The CNC I am using also has MANY differences from the standard way to write G-code, which makes every program a debugging nightmare.
(P.S. sorry to the message board for dissappearing off the face of the earth for a while)
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I know I need them. And I'm sure most of you will need them if you don't already.
Urethane? I would even settle for rubber at this point.
Can we get enough interest to get this one going?
Does anyone know of a company that'll produce these AND our door seals and weatherstripping?
stage 1 or stage 2?
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sold for $700.00. a deal IMO...
It didnt sell for anything.. nobody bid on it.
Its tempting to email the seller an offer.. but I REALLY dont want any more projects, as well as I have the twin sister of which Rich speaks of having, lol...
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ECT = Engine coolant Temp sensor
My FI justy only got about 30 mpg. (then again I drove the piss out of it) The carburetor models get a LOT better gas milage, more like 40 mpg. (you pay for it in horsepower though)
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FI justys dont have enrichment injectors. ECT would definetly be a place to start. If that is disconnected or reading at maximum resistance, then the engine will run in open loop (enriched). Its been a while since I have peered under the hood of a justy (I parted with mine a couple years ago), but I believe they stick that ECT on the intake manifold near the bell housing side.
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Does that mean the pm you sent me no longer applies, l'm confused.
Please get in touch so l know. :-\
No, you're still all set. I'm just keeping the door open to future bolt patterns that people may want.
-Mike
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if its not to late, how can i get a set of 4X115 for my 81 dl?? thanx:clap:
Its not too late for any bolt pattern. I'll put that down as a requiest if there is enough demand I can make that adaptor as well. First things first let me get the CNC program in order and the first adaptors made, but I will contact you when I am available to make that size as well.
-Mike
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Hey guys, sorry I havent gotten to this post in a while.
First off I do apoligise that I made a big goof on the initial time frame of when I was planning on getting these done. Long sad story short, when classes started some other stuff hit me up at the same time and I assure you its been non stop day after day. The GOOD news is this weekend should be the last weekend of this torture, and the business is slowing down again. This week I will be back into setting up the CNC to machine the adaptors. Looking for another time frame give me a couple more weeks as of NOW, seeing as things are going back to normal.
Bosco, if I may respond to the email you sent me... do NOT weld anything to the wheel hub for a number of reasons... #1 welding it will warp it and you'll never have a straight wheel hub again. #2 the steel that is used to make those hubs is of a meduim carbon content, and is very picky about welding. If pre/post heat procedures and weld pool temperature control are not precisely followed you can and will have microfractures form that one day going down the road will spread into a crack and suddenly fail, leaving you "wheelless"
-Sorry if that makes me sound like an A-hole.. you know were cool, its just REALLY unsafe to weld anything to a wheel hub and I dont want anyone to get hurt
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Just so you know Gen 1 radiators are far and few... I garuntee you there is no way to get a new one thru napa. Best I can offer you is you take it to Atascadero Radiator and they can rod yours. If you need a spare I got extra gen 1 radiators lying around. Keep in mind that an EA81 radiator fits with hardly any mods worth mentioning (drilling a hole or two). and those are readily available brand new. As far as the carb goes, you and I both know no matter how hard you try they always leak the fuel out....dangit..
.. I have spare carbs as well if you need one of those for parts.-Mike
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Ea71 & EA81 FWD transmissions are 3.7 final ratio
4wd transmissions are 3.889 (3.9)
Good luck Moosens
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Rich, just so you know the front output shaft seals are Rancho Grande only... Ive been down that road before.. The rear output seal is pretty common and SLO napa probably has one in stock. For the engine, I actually bought a whole gasket set. (talk to Jims Import Auto Parts, he is a dealer for ITM gaskets, and ITM makes an excellent gasket set)
For the F output seals...
Use a center punch to mark the bearing retainers position and then unthread to replace the seal, then reinstall and then turn the trans over to do the other side. There is a large o-ring that seals the threads, but in my experience those rarely leak because in their 30 years of service they havent moved. Just clean them and coat them in dielectric grease and put em back in.
I might be able to swing by this weekend if you want any pointers.
-Mike
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Paul, I checked my FSMs
First off, I show that there was only a Hardtop DL 1600 for 1980 and 1981. All GLF models appear as 1800. I wouldent be suprised if the GLF5 1600 was only available early 1980 only (I have the same problem with my 1977 FSM only referring to stage 2).
Anyway, I am showing that for the "newer" body style 1600 3rd 4th and 5th are taller gears than in the earlier Gen1 5 speed. Both are the usual 3.7 Final
1980+ ea71
1:3.666
2:2.157
3:1.266
4:0.885
5:0.725
1979-1978 ea71
1:3.666
2:2.157
3:1.464
4:1.029
5:0.789
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Make your reciever INTO your bumper
I've used this to tow other cars on trailers (not dolley), motorcycles, etc... cant complain one bit. The only thing that worries me is the brat not having enough "mass" to keep all four feet on the ground in an emergency.
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PS. I love the ea71 engine but be aware that they have a tendency to grenade pistons
-Mike
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Lot of good information about different EA engines. I hate to bring up the fact that the author does not even talk about the differences between early and late EA71s. Honestly there are a lot of differences in the bottom end between the Vintage EA71 and the "Fat case" ea71. Since I have a plethora of both styles of ea71s lying around I can go into more detail on the differences if anyone needs the info.
MOST importantly the flywheel bolts on ea71s is 8MM and on ea81 is 9MM
The oil pump on EA81's has a lot more output.
Crank journal sizes are different, etc..
EA71 and EA81 Head gaskets are different too.
-Mike
(Dont want to be a downer, just informing people to check hardcopy reference material before believing it all online)
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Bosco! I quit my weekend job cause I was losing my mind, count me in 100% for camping
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I am soooooo in need of the tailgate latch mechanism. If its possible to get send me a PM or something.
Thanks
-Mike
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Hey guys I just wanted to update people that I am falling a little behind schedule on these. (neither the boss nor I suspected the business would be this busy this time of year). Rest assured I AM working on these. Cost is still the same on these as initially stated. I am basically donating my time to the project for the subaru community. Its been long overdue for someone to design and machine these.
-Mike
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Yup, I have all the parts, machining tools, etc.. and I have the cad files drawn up, right now I am just working out the CNC program and getting it to do what I want it to do. I think I have located a complete set of legacy rims that I can use to test drive them and beat the snot out of them to make sure they are PLENTY strong to handle everyone's abuse
-Mike
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so are the rear plates designed to go on the drums or the rear disk conversion ones? if they will bolt right onto the drums then count me in as soon as i get the money lol
Yes they should work with drums or disks from the dimensions I got
-Mike
PS yes I got paypal transactions, until new years I am a few states apart from my work, so you'll year more from me right after that
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take your current track, add 1.2"... then figure accordingly to the backspace/width you choose for your wheels
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Brian, I dont think you want to meet me at the AM/PM at 3AM
Is there a demand for bolt pattern adaptors?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Yeah I still have the project on the list. Everyonce in a while when I can run away from everything else that takes up my time, I start tackling the task of making the jig needed to produce these on an efficient & accurate scale. The good news is I am not completely full of it cause I was able to complete another subaru-machining project.. I'll work on a new thread about it right now..
-Mike