RenaissanceMan
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Posts posted by RenaissanceMan
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I dont remember what the stage 2 vehicles use, BUT I have a 77 stage one I am trying to get roadworthy again as fast as possible. ALL the weatherstrip is garbage and falling out of the car. I have found a company (Trim-Lok inc.) that sells the perfect replacement push-on weatherstrip for my Gen 1 wagon.
Figure it takes about 10-11 feet per door, and a minimum order is 250 ft.
To be on the safe side lets say 50 feet for a wagon. I have no idea what a coupe or a sedan would be.
figuring in tax and shipping (company is here in california) It comes just shy of $1.00 per foot
like I said this is the push-on style that grabs onto the pinchweld, and the bulb diameter is 3/8" and the metal part that grips onto the pinchweld is meant for 1/16" thick.
I want to get this stuff ordered pretty quick so I can be ready for WCSS9, so I need another 4-5 ish people that are interested in getting some brand new weatherstrip for their old subaru.
-Mike
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Mine got a screwdriver through the middle of it!
(sounds MUCH better now!)
Mine ended up as roadkill in the DMV parking lot
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Part Number: 21343A
Line Code: CRB
For practicality reasons, Echlin has combined all the different EA81 Hitachi carburetor kits into one kit
The other one, the 21323A is for that funky carter-weber thing I believe
So I'm getting ready for a carb rebuild on the '82 GL 1.8 4wd waggon and I'm having trouble with parts.Problem is Napa lists 3 carb kits and I don't know which one I need.
So whats the difference, is the carb number stamped somewhere.
I tried searching and all I came up with was "junk the Hitachi and get a Webber" which I'm really not up for.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
by the way the car is 01/'82 2 barrel if that helps
thanks croak
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a gen 1 with a body kit? I cant even manifest in my head what that looks like..
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You wont find any ignition points on that car...
Get a vacuum guage on it, Looking at vacuum tells you so much you can even adjust your timing that way, lol
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Headgasket failures arent that uncommon on that motor, did you get the block decked? almost every time I take a subie apart the spot on the deck between the 2 cylinders is .002 low (which is barely in tolerence yes, but if the head warps at all then it adds up)
Sorry bout the assertiveness of the last post, was still recovering a bit from an evening of spirits
anyway, fo sho get a compression check and a vacuum guage on it. (you can actually do a running compression check to check for sticking valves too, it runs pretty bad on 3 cylinders, but as long as it will run you can leave the compression tester in the tested hole and see if compression drops below normal under certain RPM ranges)
*edit* Just thought of something else so I thought I might suggest this also. I still definetly think the hesitation is a vacuum problem.. Have you tried eliminating the PCV valve?? Just unplug the hose to it and cap it off and see if it makes any difference? Also have you eliminated the EVAP canister? If that guy is stuck on purge then you can have a minor vacuum leak. (at least at idle when your not supposed to)
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Okay, so I just looked at the link to the other thread, looked at all the other things you checked, and looked at the video.. Your stumbling acceleration problem is from low vacuum, O2 code gets thrown from misfiring causing an always lean miixture reading
One thing everyone forgot to notice... that car is an Ea82 TBI.. with god knows how many miles on it. After a long time those timing belt tensioner bearings and idler bearings can wear out, causing slack on the timing belt.
Long story short, one of the belts on that car has jumped a tooth. since its running, probably the passenger side. if its not a belt then it might be internal valvetrain damage.. (I have seen one of those engines throw a seat before)
Most importantly, if the timing is ok, then those symptoms are low (or fluctuating) vacuum.
-Mike
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You should test it without it plugged into the ECU... just unplug the sensor in the engine bay and plug your multimeter's positive lead into the O2 sensor side of the connector, and ground the negative lead.... that should render the actual voltages the O2 sensor is giving as it generates its own voltage.
You can do it with the O2 sensor plugged in as well. Find the check connectors under the dash. One of the pins should be the O2 sensor output. Then you can open the throttle a bit and watch the O2 sensor cross hatch.
Well, we all got our own reasonig, my reasoning behind testing the o2 sensor while it is plugged in is because the computer no longer has control over the mixture when it is disconnected, and will probably set the code, go into limp mode, and run rich causing a constant high voltage. .8 to .9 volts, which yes works, but doesnt tell you anything IMO.
The computer does not add any voltage to the circuit when connected because it is a high resistance opamp or comparator type circuit, which is then converted into digital garble, and does not use a reference voltage like an ECT or a TPS
Sorry I forgot to mention with spark plugs that on some of the thread chasers they give you the really old school thread size which is 18 x 1.5.. they stopped using that size about the same time that flathead engines became obsolete. Didnt know you had that size chaser
FYI, if you disconnect your engine coolant temp sensor, your oxygen sensor will never be used (for help with diagnosis)
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LOL, sorry guys, the UNIMOG isnt mine, and actually I dont live at that house anymore. Though it would be a long and slow trip, the one benefit to driving the mog is that I wouldent have to take the freeway, infact I wouldent have to take roads even.. I could just shoot for a straight line on the map and drive over anything in my way.
-Mike
(gee, I just noticed the typo in the subject field... oh well)
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I live way down here in central coast cali... so I cant exactly bring my whole armada of subarus.. I need some input on which I should drive up there?
82 GLF... not very pretty on the inside.. but gots all the "power features" Probably my most comfortable to drive, though not terribly exciting. (2wd auto) Has a couple of quirks I should probably work out.
77 1600 4wd. Shes old and I need to put her powertrain back together, but I suspect these are getting to be a rarity up at the subaru shows. Putting her back together wont take very long cause I have "all the stuff"
84 turbo brat 4/4 inch SJR lift. 26" pirelli's This one is my baby.. handles like a dream, faster than anything else I own, HOWEVER. Eats a little bit of oil because of the turbo, has a small coolant leak AT the turbo, and gets HORRID gas milage... like 16 mpg running premium or something.. I dont know if I can afford to drive this one up there and back. LOL
Reply what you think should make the trip, and what you want to see at the show.
-Mike
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Remember, less than 60 days left to get those cars running, mod's finished, and to hit the road!
Seeya There!
Uh oh.... I somehow thought I had an extra month in there..
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Remember, less than 60 days left to get those cars running, mod's finished, and to hit the road!
Seeya There!
Uh oh.... I somehow thought I had an extra month in there..
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YOU SEEM VERY EXCITED ABOUT THAT! lol
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Best upgrade for the justy involves a lot of welding and cutting and in the end you have an EA81 or other conventional subaru powertrain underneath your 3 cyl justy body. LOL
-Mike
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they are so much stiffer that you cant tell a darn bit of difference LOL.
-Mike
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Ok, just some info on the conventional O2 sensor operation to clarify any misconceptions. Read carefully and hope this helps everyone here.
The oxygen sensor generates voltage by a difference in oxygen content. Literally the voltage is created by oxygen molecules travelling from the outer "reference" area, through the material, into the inner part where the absence of oxygen is.
When the car is working properly in closed loop operation, it will switch between 0.2 volts to 0.8 volts. Only test this with a DMM (high impediance) an analog meter which in most cases is considered low impedance can draw too much current and damage the oxygen sensor. 0.2 volts being lean, 0.8 volts being rich (these values may travel to more extreme in either direction on well controlled systems)
When you remove a spark plug wire from your engine, you are yes, introducing unburnt fuel into the exhaust, HOWEVER you are also introducing unused oxygen from that cylinder into the exhaust as well, which is why it will read lean (low voltage).
The proper way to test oxygen sensor operation is to use a propane source. While the engine is idling and the computer is in closed loop operation (warmed up) you should notice the sensor alternating between .2 and .8 volts every 1-2 seconds (depending on vehicle) This is the ECU controlling the amount of oxygen and carbon monoxide into the exhaust, which allows proper 3 way catalytic convertor function (if you want to know why the cat needs this, send me a PM). Back to the O2 sensor... introduce propane (not lit of course) into the intake of the engine. This is adding extra fuel causing a proper rich mixture and the voltage should go high. the computer immediately starts compensating, and eventually you should see the o2 voltage start alternating again. Now remove the propane source and you should see the o2 sensor read real LOW for a while. The engine may stumble, and the computer after a few seconds should adapt to the normal fuel mixture again, and the o2 sensor should go back to its normal .2 to .8 fluctuating.
Please note on older computer-carbed subies, these results may not be as "spectacular" because of the limited ability those older computer systems had.
conventional O2 sensor thread size is M18x 1.5
Spark Plug thread size is M14x1.25 (there are spark plug sizes of course such as M10 or M12 used in motorcycles and other small engines)
Please note that any exhaust leak between the O2 sensor and the engine (really common on subies) will cause it to read lean, therefore causing your engine to run rich, because the computer's block learn is compensating for it
the oxygen sensor is not used until it warms up. On modern systems with an O2 heater, this may be only 30 seconds. On older 1 wire O2 sensors, this may take 5 minutes, or longer in cold weather. (if your drivability problem occurs right from the start before your engine even warms up, your o2 sensor is NOT the problem, unless you have a bad o2 as well as a bad engine temperature sensor that failed to low resistance, but thats quite a circumstance)
Exposure to coolant vapor or other wrong chemicals can destroy an oxygen sensor.
Always test the o2 sensor while its connected to the ECU, and using a propane torch to "benchtest" an o2 sensor is risky business as it may get too hot and destroy it.
-Mike
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Some Silicone sealants will "gas" up to 2 weeks after application, particularly bathroom caulk. be sure to scuff up the adhered surfaces with some sandpaper, and clean with acetone. Because its a headlight, if you leave a small area on the bottom of the lens open for drainage and expansion, you will probably avoid the problem you are having, and it shouldent fog up because there wont be any water collecting in the bottom. Most every headlamp lens does have a drainage hole at the bottom somewhere
Hope that helps
-Mike
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1600 Head gasket
1800 Head gaslet
Dont mind the inversion between pictures, but you can see some differences like alignment pins
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from what I've heard Napa is not good with Subaru stuff
Ouch...
No, its true. Our supplier for CV shafts is horrible ever since we lost ARI. I personally say its so worth it to call up Wolf Enterprises to have him make you a set. Could never be more satisfied with any axles he sells me.
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It'll work yes, I would recommend putting in new wrist pin bushings and getting them honed. Just dont throw any timing belts, It'll make a mess without the reliefs.
-Mike
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I dont think there is enough sleeve to go much bigger on those bores.
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It would be possible except for 1 bolt that goes thru the very center of the block thru the area where the pushrods go through. if you were able to get past that, then you could split the halves. Then the next question is, how are you supposed to put it back together? crank w/ rods go in crankcase, and pistons are pushed in after it is assembled. They give you access holes to align everything and slide in the wrist pins.
Sorry for the bad news
-Mike
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You guys never watched MacGyver back in the day? lol
-Mike
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Get the car aligned, you would be amazed what that will do if it rolls striaght down the road. Put as thin of an oil as you feel safe in the engine. 10W30 mobil one? 5W30 mobil one?
I saw this once at wcss7, make a water/deposit separator thing to go between the valve cover, and the PCV valve on your PCV system.
Run your tires up at 40 psi. (be concerned about traction in hard stopping situations)
Try running thinner gear oil than what you have in there now.
Remove any unneccesary interior, lol
Fresh O2 sensor, for quick and precise fuel control, faster switching.
thats the only stuff I can come up with for now, hope any of that points you in the right direction
-Mike
UPDATE: Group buy on door weatherstrip
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Posted
Like I said, its been a while since I had a stage 2 gen 1.. Moosens, can you verify that they also use a pinch-on style weatherstrip?? Rich, if you read this can you dash out to your brat real quick and verify?
Figure with freight $50 for a 4 door car, $30ish for a 2 door. I need to call the company up and talk to them on tuesday to make sure we are getting what we are looking for.
-Mike