RenaissanceMan
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Posts posted by RenaissanceMan
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The car gets its tires changed depending on conditions alot. Sometimes its running stock 13" alloys with herculies 170/70r13 somethingerather tires.. other times its running 15" redrilled toyota rims, with winterforce snow tires mounted on them. (205/60r15 studs removed, excellent for rallying and still street legal)
Tirewear is increased if your doing a lot of city driving. If your highway driving I dont think it makes a darn bit of difference. Oversteer isnt really noticable if your driving on the same streets everyone else is. Riding passenger, I havent observed any turns where he had to stop and back up and make it a 3 pointer.
There is actually BETTER turning if your going in reverse on dirt,(probably because the inside tire will be turning faster than it should, kicking the trailing end out.) but its not like we use that maneuver all the time so who cares.
I would not recommend going with tires any larger than the 205/60R15 on street. Unless you have an EJ in there, your simply going to run out of horsepower on low speed tight turns, and the drivetrain will get angry at you. If your going on dirt only, low gear equipped, Id say sure, try an all terrain and see what happens.
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woah - awesome!
man, did you create a thread, notes, or share more about that somewhere? i'd love to see that.
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where are all of these cherry subarus coming from all of the sudden? I mean its like suddenly people are posting going "oh yeah, I got one of those".
*druling over cars*
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People dont understand the awesomeness of older subarus till they actually see a mint one.... I say if they cant see the beauty and elegance in the rough ones, then why should they think they can own a nice one?
You really should consider making the subaru show this year Rich. We can caravan it!
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ok so I already thought the stage 1 GSR grills were the coolest looking grill out there... but... seeing the quad headlights on this overseas GST (or GFTS) is like the hottest, sexiest subaru thing ever...
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Scott.. I recently welded up a diff on a FWD XT. Care was taken in the process and it was welded properly (tig welded with a similar alloy). I don't have any results as to running an open 4wd with it obviously cause it doesnt have one. I can tell you that its not as bad as one might think driving with a locked front end. Traction is way better, and believe it or not it doesnt complain too much when you drive it on the street.
on another note though... TWO HANDS ON THE WHEEL. even with power steering even the smallest rock in your way jerks the wheel one way or another. It does tend to have understeer problems in tight hairpin corners, but it didnt seem any worse to me than driving in a normal 4wd suby locked in 4wd.
-Mike
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FYI if your gonna dump some money into the motor.. the forged piston set that RAMengines.com sells will fit in your motor, and those come with moly rings btw. That is of course if you want to fork out the $515 for them
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Check your PM box, and yes they are the same
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thanks for your thoughts people. In the past I have always used zip ties when covers start breaking. -Looks ghetto but works.
Like I said I finally managed to come across a set of non-broken timing cover pieces, so I am interested in being able to use the threaded holes. I'll let you know what formula I come up with, though I wouldent be suprised if these damn things siezed and broke anyway...
SOMEBODY out there needs to make cast aluminum versions of these things.
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so on my 86 I got the long block put back in. I have a timing kit for it, and I was planning on running w/o covers on the engine like I did my last ea82 (years and years ago).
Today I got some inspiration and putzed around a couple junkyards. After I got thru 6 subarus, I finally found a set of timing covers where all the bolts loostened without breaking the rear covers
. I believe they came free like they were supposed to because they hadnt been overtightened by anyone since the day it left the factory, as it still had subaru timing belts on it (at 200K too!!!).SOOO question is.. what prep do you guys use to make sure these dang bolts dont sieze in the covers?? I was thinking about barely tightening the bolts and drilling them for safety wire so they dont come out.
-Mike
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Keep in mind that it was actually 77.5 when they changed.. I have a stage 1 wagon that is a 77, only because it was early 77. Brats were being produced in late 77 but sold as 78 models right??
-Mike
One ne on the fenders, while pre-77 Gen 1 fenders will probably physically bolt onto the car, the bodylines are different. I believe it was 77 or 78 that the body really changed, where the lines on the side of the car got mellowed out and became more curvey, and the front turn signals were moved to the fender corners.I have a 72 Tailgate wagon and a 76 4wd wagon, as well as a collection of 78-81 Brats with which I make my comparisons and reach my conclusions.
So far what i have seen, I could easily swap my 72 DL grill onto my 76, as well as the fenders, doors, and most of the interior, it all bolts into the same places for the most part. None of the body/trim pieces will swap onto my Brats, or a stage 2 wagon for that matter, well they may swap but they wont match the body lines, even the door handles are different! The interiors might swap, but dont quote me on that. Drivetrain components are completely interchangeable though, the basic platform did not really change until 1980 when the 2nd gen chassis came out.
As far as stages, I believe most refer to the stages as the actual body changeover, which was 77 I believe. So Pre-77 would be Stage 1, and 77-79 and Brats 77-81 would be Stage 2.
Engine/trim/chassis stages are another story
-Bill
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Subaru hubs cannot be redrilled to 5x100. Unfortunately the brake rotor bolt pattern itself is too close to where the studs would need to be to fit that pattern directly in to the hub.
Seeing as people are excited about these things again, and I am beginning to walk again... I suppose I could bring the project out of the grave and have another whirl at it... I do know a lot more about what our CNC is capable of, and how long it takes to machine stuff, etc...
No promises people, as I am relearning how to walk (broke my ankle in a go-kart moment of stupidity)
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wheel spacers are easy because the object is essentially two dimensional and the material started with doesn't have to be machined for hours on end, nor do I have to make a jig to correctly position the part after flipping it over and continue machining.
Long story short... how thick do you want? anything over 3/8 of an inch and you should probably have me look for some longer wheel studs...
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count renaissanceman in this year!! The sad part is that I had to sell my lifted brat:dead:. I broke my ankle at the end of the semester and not being able to work I have become desperate for income. The good news is that I sold it to a friend of mine and he is already taking better care of it than I was.
So strangely enough.. I don't even know if I can believe this, but right now my 82 GLF (4wd) is 100% mechanically sound, and there aren't any scary problems with it that would worry me on a long trip. Its wierd I know.. I am kinda worried having a reliable vehicle will take the fun out of the adventure. (or curse murphy's law on me)
Anyway... I am already planning out a savings plan for myself so I can actually afford to make the trip. I'd like to even take the long way around and meet up with the Nevada convoy first and head up with you guys.
-Mike
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Your tach is electronic. Why did you rewire your fuel pump to run off the radio?? What wiring diagram are you using? Perhaps you should just look into replacing the voltage regulator?
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if your transmission/engine mounts are broken in the correct manner it can cause your car to pop out of gear. My car will pop out of 1st and sometimes 3rd when I am engine braking because both my transmission mounts are broken.
-Mike
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Well I finally drove it home today!:banana:This is the first time my 14 year old son has seen it and he loves it! He wants it for his first car. Maybe there is some hope in converting him over to being a Subaru lover after all!
:eek::eek::eek:I was not nice to my first car... um.... maybe you should make him drive the brat for a couple years to get the antzies out of his system...
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OK, so I have been to lucerne valley, and it amazes me that they actually require enhanced smog (dyno) way out there.. I mean.. thats like.... REMOTE.
I live in San Luis Obispo county and they dont even require enhanced.
As far as your situation goes. Anything 4wd, selectable or not, for safety reasons they should be only doing an idle/2500 smog test. The transmission isnt designed to have the front wheels spinning with the back wheels stopped. If the smog tech damages your transmission while smogging it, then the shop is liable for any damages.. long story short, its much easier for the tech to override the dyno test and usually always does for anything 4wd.
The dyno test only tests for oxides of nitrogen additionaly to what a normal test does. Unless youve removed the catalytic convertor from your 79 brat that it didnt come with
.. doing the enhanced test over the standard test shouldent make a difference. What I would be worried about on something that old, is the new evap pressure test. If your evap system is not hooked up right or you have a rust hole in the top of your gas tank, they'll fail you for it just cause your gas tank wont hold pressure. -
OK for some reason I thought all ea82 cars came with rear sway bars, but today I found out that is not the case... Rather the RX's and GL-10s only came with rear sway bars??
I've been hopping around on my one good foot (broke my left ankle weeks ago) upgrading the running gear on my 86 GL 3 door.
Put rear disk brakes on, put RX springs and 19mm sway bar on up front.. cranked up the rear coilovers, etc..
Anyway, I have a rear sway bar lying around and I noticed my GL didnt have one.. and it didnt even have the mounting tabs on the control arms for one. Long story short, I'm gonna put the rear sway bar on...
Has anyone come up with anything to mount the sway bar to the control arms when you dont have the tabs? I figured I would just make some and then weld them on, but??? BTW is there anything better than the RX/GL-10 rear sway bar available? something stiffer from a different car???
Thanks guys... its been a few years for me with the ea82 cars, but its coming back to me.
-Mike
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I have a gasket for the rear window (same as VW superbeetle window), I also have the weatherstripping 45 feet should be plenty?
dont freak out about the rust rich, just buy some POR15 and brush it on. Give me a call when you have the carb off and I can come pick it up. If you need POR15 let me know I was thinking about ordering another quart for myself.
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ok well I guess I'll be the jerk on this one.. can we get this moved over to the other forum? 91 loyale is hardly historic
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But the fenders will live on in honor of the rest of it! lol
Yeah I got it 2 years ago. It had been sitting in a field for 20 years. It was completely rotted out and I had absolutley no luck finding any parts for it. So I stripped it and took it to the junk. To bad too. It was a neat looking car. -
see "1976 wagon" thread.. turns out its actually just a first generation ea71. I didnt recognise it cause the manifold had a lot less stuff on it than my 77's ea71
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Hope someone not from the states can answer this for you, though I imagine with a whopping 800cc of fury you'll get better milage than my motorcycle...
My latest subaru engine improvement
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
OK, so this might have been a little more overkill from what it needed to be, but it honestly wasn't that much of an investement and that much work (other than dealing with corroded threads!
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So I did this for an ea82 obviously, but IIRC any subaru has these plugs in place to do this modification.
OK, so the question is, How often do you swap manifolds, water pumps, cylinder heads... whatever?? Woulden't the world just be a better place if you could drain the engine block of coolant, neatly, painlessly, no muss no fuss?
I already know the manifold will come off this engine sooner or later, and I always hate pulling the manifold and letting coolant pour down in to the intake, etc.. not to mention subaru made the cyl head plug on the driverside useless, because if you want to drain that side, it still pours all over the crossmember, exhaust, whatever... either way I wanted to be able to drain the coolant without getting my torso covered in ethylene glycol!
I started by drilling the head plugs (on a lathe, I know I am spoiled), and then I tapped the heads to fit standard 1/8 pipe thread, so I could fit brass hose barbs in them.
Put on new gaskets and some #1 sealant on the plugs, but used more of a teflon based sealant on the brass threads.
Then I ran the hoses out in front at the bottom of the radiator, and joined the two sides with a Tee, and then attached another length of hose with a petcock.
And lastly to keep my well hung petcock (
) tucked up and out of harms way I used one of the subaru "reusable zip ties" to hold it against one of the bottom rock guards.
So, any comments or further suggestions on the idea? Living in california I want to be able to "Swap" things quick and easy when smog check time comes around.
-Mike