Cliff

A very common problem with Suby fan motors is resistor pack usually located near the blower motor inside the vent to help cool it. Higher resistance=slower speed. Important yes, but it only functions if power is switched to it. If you have a schematic you will also see a blower motor relay. It is not located under the hood next to the A/C relay. It is inside the car on the drivers side, left of the st. wheel. It won't be too hard to recognize. It'll be the one thats hot/discolored.

Fan works fine first time I turn it on. Stop somewhere and turn the car off and restart after a few minutes (gas up) and the fan acts like its not getting power. Turn the car off and leave it for a while and the fan will work again when the car is started. Anyone have an answer to the reason for this?

I can only tell you that during an emergency situation where the damper next to the fuel pump was spewing gas everywhere I found it necessary to eliminate it and replaced it with a piece of 3/8 inside fuel line and clamps. There is another damper up near the SPFI after the filter. From what I've read their function is to help eliminate surges of pressure from the pump. I've had no problems since removing it and had almost forgotten about it until I saw your post.

That loud banging you hear is my head making contact with the hood of my Suby. This canister purge soleniod valve problelm is driving me nuts! I measured the resistance across the solenoid contacts and it was as specified (110 ohms). Checked all hoses and canister for leaks. Figured what could it hurt, so I bought a new replacement solenoid valve (which also measured 110 ohms). Same result, check engine light is still on!:madder: Any help?

Code 35 is the canister purge control solenoid valve. I would think the only way it could affect your idle is if the valve is leaking vacuum between the intake manifold and the carbon canister. Check the hoses in the circuit for vacuum leaks also. However, a bad solenoid alone will give you the 35. Check the resistance between the terminals-should be less than 100 ohms.

Whenever I take an exit ramp that circles to the right at a speed over about 30-35mph the engine begins to erupt in loud valve chatter and starts blowing oil out the exhaust. Anyone have an answer to this besides "slow down!". Is this a windage problem that can be solved or just the nature of the beast?

If anyone is interested I found a great source for Suby decals. They are available in different styles and sized for all models. Good people to do biz with. Decals come with instructions and a squeegee - easy to install. http://www.edecals.com/import/subaru_decals.htm

If anyones interested heres a good source for Suby decals. You can get them in all sizes and colors. Easy to apply and come instructions and squeegee.

Thanks for the reply Holmes. I checked 1stSubyParts and they list the EGR solenoid valve but not the PCS. Go figure-I read somewhere that the PCS valve failure is the most common problem related to Subys. Looks like the dealers gonna get me! I haven't given trying to find one cheaper-if I do I'll post the jobber. Cliff

I'm a newbie too! I'm down to one '89 GL wagon (just sold my 79 Brat) and it just started flashing the check engine light. Its on much more than off. I pulled off the canister purge control solenoid and checked its operation on the bench. I can'tn blow through it without voltage applied and when I put power to it theres a click as the solenoid moves and then air will move. However, when I mount it back on the engine it allows vacuum through it with and without the power harness connected (voltage at connection is 13.6vdc). My question is "why?" What criteria does the computer use to determine a faulty solenoid valve? Why does it pass vacuum to the canister even with the power connection apart? Any suggestions or ideas are greatly welcomed! I'd like to avoid paying the dealer $150 for a replacement if its bad, but I have to get this light out permanently in order to pass emmission testing. Cliff