stevecd

I want to do my timing belt during my spring brake and want to replace everything else that will be easy once the belt is taken off. Just wondering if anyone knew a place that sold maybe a bunch of seals and or gaskets and other preventive maintenance stuff (water pump?) in a kit for the Subaru ej22 engine on a 93 legacy. I plan on getting this from eBay to start link here. Any help is appreciated like part numbers or places to go for the best deal. btw i found this post but not sure if my car would take the same parts since my car is older.

I ruled out the wheel bearing also since after I took the rotor off the sound went completely away, so I wonder if its normal or maybe the rotor is out of round or something, I’m sure its messed up no matter what since it been so hot but maybe it was what caused the problem also. It sounds like the rotor has a bump or something and the shoe hits that spot every rotation.

Well I feel stupid replacing the master cylinder and finding it not to be the problem but I noticed another thing after adjusting the rear brakes and regresse everything. it seemed to work at least for 4 days and then it did it again, this time I jacked up the car and while spinning the wheel noticed a scraping sound as if it was touching and letting go. first thought it to be the brake pads on the rotor but took the pads off and it was still there and found it to be the brake shoe’s against the rotor and after spending tons of time tiring to adjust it fix it i could not stop the sound. So do you guys think the problem is with a bad shoe or rotor maybe? Again thanks for the help guys and info let me know if you want any more details.

maybe a bad connection to the battery, or bad connection to something else that carries alot of power.

Sounds like the sending unit is failing. I believe this happens if you buy bad gas which eats away on the unit so maybe if you switched gas stations it might fix it. If you keep track of your mileage with your trip it really isn't needed and I believe the warning light will still function like normal when you’re low since it’s works with a different mechanism. also a second thought maybe when you disconnected the fuel gage it messed up something and got resetting to full when though it isn't maybe next fill up will fix that or resetting the ecu by taking the batter cable off and then back on. Good luck

my car reads low also so might be a subaru thing usally when the thing says empty i still have maybe 3 or 2 gallons left oh well no big deal i thought

well went out and checked my legacy and i have a sideways leaver that lets you unlock it so it can go "down" which means you should be able to pull it up and have no problem but you do so i would guess maybe it was pushed in to much so i would try wiggling it hard or if you really need it out maybe "pry bar"? lol hopefully it doesn't take that much force anyways good luck.

if it is a problem with the door lock i would spray some lubricant in the key hole but if its something with the door not letting you in with it unlocked i would lubricate all the parts that the door is in contact with the car. had a problem with my door on my 93 legacy not closing easily and all it needed was some white lithium grease on the little hinge. good luck

engine size i thight might help but i would say that is high with any engine. i would guess a spark plug is bad or wire, also maybe its a bad tachometer but if it doesn't have a check engine light on i would guess its nothing to worry about. check your gas mileage next time which would tell you if something is seriously wrong. good luck let us know what it ends up being

if you aren't going to use the rotor again hit it with a hammer about 50 times or til it pops off on my car the front took maybe 30 hits before it would come off (1lb hammer). but my rears had the nice bolt hole, which i used with the bolt that i took off to get the caliper up, so i would assume that would be the same for your case. good luck

i believe you can test them by pushing down the each corner and seeing if they are "mushy", i would think it would be best to replace it once the axle goes out which is maybe 100k if your lucky and I'm sure you will notice a different and speed bump performance and alike but it isn't cheap. ~Stevecd

not sure if your talking about the tornado thing that goes with the air intake system but sorry to let you know but it doesn't really do what you think and doesn't give you better gas mileage at least not since last i heard about them.

well i did check the little things first before replacing the mc like the piston does go back in with the bleeder screw open however i haven't tried to push it in while it was closed so i will try that after i get the brake lubracient, i'll try to check the park brake again but it seems ok but i'll get some lubracient for that also. thanks for all the help. might have to find some braided steel hose since i would rather have that. ~Stevecd

interesting was going to buy from them but decided against it becasue i got a 5 year warrenty with a local place, shows the only well made one you will get is probally from the dealer.

nipper thanks for the info, the lubrication I used wasn't made especially made for the brake slider so I will buy some that is and do it to all four calipers. not sure if this helps but i also want to buy everything i need for a timing belt job so if i could get a multidiscount i would go for that btw i only want oem stuff and I don't mind paying for it as long as its a "good deal". ~Stevecd

well after hearing that brake hoses cost about $50 each I decided to wait on it and check if you guys can think of anything else. Today however it happened again when i was going home from school so i thought it would be a good time to see what it looks like while its failing and check around, well i jacked up the car while the wheel was stuck and since it was so hot i decided to wait a little, while waiting for it i noticed each time i checked it would get a little more unstuck with the temp. going down until it was cold enough to take it off it seemed as though it was normal again "unstuck". so i though maybe their was air and i spent the last hour or so flowing brake fluid though not finding any bubbles. So i was wondering if this confirmed the brake hoses are bad or is this something else and also if anyone know where i could get brake hoses cheaper then $50. ~Stevecd

I personally would never buy a car with a total title or been in a major wreak no matter how much you save, you have to ask if its worth the safety it might not provide or the reliability. Anyways i believe cars that have branded titles are usally worth about half the value of a car withone such a history.

before you take it in maybe try a different oil in your car that cured my clicking sound and is a lot cheaper to do *if it works* then taking it in to get fixed. their is info if you search i believe. Good luck

lol and i always thought that black goo was dirt or oil coming from somewhere oops...:-\

it does sound like your alternator is going bad you can test this fairly easily i believe some car part stores can help you test it for free like autozone or you can do it yourself with a volt meter and make sure it is between the min and max that your owners manual says probally around 12-14. if the alternator check out maybe its a loose connection with the battery.

ok off to the auto store thanks for the help guys i will let you know when i get done. ~Stevecd

I’m guessing it probably something in the lines so could I just take the lines out and check them by flowing fluid in or is it something like the lines collapsing? Hopefully this thing gets fixed. ~Stevecd

guys bad news the problem i think is coming back, so far the brakes haven't failed but the pass. side wheel was temp. stuck for about 2 miles which made the wheel get very hot . so wondering if there is anything between the rear brakes and the master cylinder that i could check. thanks in advance for the help. Stevecd

I heard it from some where not sure if this is true but, anyways to keep headgaskets from going out i heard just letting your engine warm up before you accelerate hard or at all will keep you safe, again not sure if this is true but it sounds good.

I wouldn't personally overfill the tranny since they give a big warning in the manual, but I doubt that is the problem also what I would do is try the seafoam that is made for trannys and see if it does anything from what I heard it does wonders. Good luck