alia176

Yeah, let me just get my microcontoller and the assembler out of the closet and I'll get right on it I just gotta decide if I want a Motorola or an Intel microcontroller! Like I can actually remember how to program all that stuff from way back when! But the ECU theory does make sense. Maybe I'm frying something and it just took a while to occur on this go around. I'll check for obvious signs. Thanks for the inputs guys. Ali :headbang:

Some answers for you: T belt and fuel filter are brand new. The stalling does take place at hwy speeds as far as I know. I do like Meep's idea of LEDs for dx reasons. Should be easy to make up a bread board from Radio Shack and a few LEDs. They make 12 vdc LEDs. I'd need to make up a FIFO (first in first out) latching circuit to know which one shut down first. Since it's my wife's car, she can call me and tell me which one shut down first before resetting the ckt for the next time. Theoretically, all the wires are coming into the ECU, under the passenger carpet. So, just some vampire taps into the appropriate wires should be a snap. It seems to me that I've heard the "valve guide dropping" theory somewhere else too and that's what I'm leaning towards right now. Should that be the case, I suspect there isn't a whole lotta room to remove the heads with the engine in situ, right?

Thanks for the confirmation. Maybe I can rent it from you when you're done with your project :wave:

Suppose, you wanted to use the press for rear bearing work. Will the assembly sit squarely on the press plates? I'm picturing a funky looking assembly that holds on the strut and other stuff so there're ears and irregular shapes protruding from it! I need to this on my wife's '95 as it's in the "howling" mode right now. I have a press but don't have easy/cheap access to a hub tamer tool. Wish I could rent these things but my local Murray's or Autozone don't seem to carry them. I could be mistaken of course.

If this was the case, wouldn't the sister cylinder (#2) misfire as well? I'll try it just for ****s and giggles. I'll drop the exhaust pipe and take a looksie. If the guide did indeed fall down, I wonder if machining out the hole then using a larger OD guide with the same ID would work? Just thinking out loud. Hate to plunk down for a new head at 130k miles. Unless these are dime a dozen! Thanks. Ali

Aw crap, I wish I knew the engine size. I want to lean toward 2.2 but don't know for sure. Single overhead cams, if that helps! The vehicle does indeed stall out. Can't tell you about hills since there aren't any around here! :-\ As far as other codes, if memory serves, there was a code that said something like "catalyst below threshold" or something similar. This occurred many months ago, on the old ecu. Perhaps O2 sensors? I don't see the correlation though! Thanks for your reply.

Howdy folks, I've been round and round on this fault code. Quick referesher - engine runs fine and usually this problem surfaces during hwy driving. While cruising along, the engine simply quites, throws the code. Or sometime, all of this is preceeded with engine shuddering then dying. My wife's nerves are shot due to the last time when her car slowed considerably and almost got run over by a 18 wheeler. As you know, their air horns can hit the nerves when they're directly behind you! :madder: Anyway, I replaced the knock sensor and the ECU plus the usual maint items: plugs, wires, etc. After the ECU was replaced, the problem was gone for a few months. The ECU was used but known good from a Subi tech. If this is indicative of a valve dropping or such, I'll gladly fix it. But I hate to tear into it w/o substantial proof. I can use some quick help on this one since my wife drives for her work carting kids around. She has lost total confidence in her baby. What's worse, she now has my SVX :cornfuzz: Thanks a bunch. '95 Legacy wagon 130k miles no other issues!