alia176

Well, not really! The black plastic thing is simply a cover for the nut. You have to remove it in order to get access to the adjustor nut. Ali

If you do end up wanting to remove links, keep in mind that one of the bushings at that (toward the diff) end is used for toe adjustment. So, keep an eye on it as you remove the nuts/bolts. I'd mark the washer. I'm talking about the link that's closer to the front of the car. On that particular one, don't turn the bolt, only the nut. The bolt has squared off body to prevent turning. Have fun, Ali

Sorry to hear that dude. I can relate with the lateral link bolt issue! The bolts are a bit pricey FYI! I did manage to ruin one of the bushings while gettting the bolt out! The bolt froze to the inner shell of the bushing. I'd order a set of bushing just to play it safe. Good luck. Ali

Gills, Check out my locker on the SVX site to get an understanding how the discs come into play. http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?alia176|13589 Hopefully, the pics will help! Ali

I suspect the discs are same size as Hubtamer. I wish I'd seen this before I bought my Hubtamer tool Oh well, it's a good tool to have anyway. Ali

Speaking of tool, add another one to your collection: Infrared Hand held thermometer. The cost is $70 and up. If you want to test the cat to see if it's doing its job, you can meas the temp at the inlet and outlet to see if there's a 200 deg temp rise at the outlet. An efficient cat is suppose to get very hot and burn up any unburned fuel in the exhaust. Of course there're other uses for this little handy tool. Let us know how things check out. I'll be cleaning out the IAC, MAF and EGR valves today. I'll also be checking out the coil pack too. Ali '95

I just wanted to keep this thread alive since my '95 has similar issues. What's the latest folks? Ali '95 wagon

Hey guys/gals, http://www.harborfreight.com has a tool similar to the Hubtamer, ITEM 45210-0VGA, $77.00. About the only thing this tool is missing is the huge attachment that's used to drive the hub out. However, you can use a slidehammer to drive the hub out (instructions on goodwrench.com). Normally I don't purchase tools from this place unless they're the disposable type. However, in this case you have bunch of discs, a large nut, and a forcing screw. I think this should work out fine for the weekend worrior. FYI, Ali

Think I ended up around 1.5mm, eyeballing it of course! Anyway, everything is back together and went for a ride. Much quieter now than before! I'll need to calll OTC about my tool replacement as it hasn't arrived yet! Tomorrow, I'll check the temp of the hub/rotor for both sides to make sure the new bearing is seating in properly. I'm expecting to run a tad warmer on the new bearing side until everything is properly seated. Another reason why your ABS throwing codes was perhaps the wheel wasn't spinning "true"? Anyway, my back can use a little break for a while 'till the SVX project! My wife is very happy and that's all that matters. Take it easy, Ali

I don't know how to upload pics here either, so I picked the SVX site's "Personal Locker" for alia176 to store them. Maybe there's a way to do the same here? Regarding the hub tamer tool to push the axle out, I didn't think this was possible due to a missing tool. That's the tool that attached to your hub using the lugs and becomes the anchor to which the forcing screw goes through and pushes the axle through. I've yet to purchase this handy tool. Can someone tell me the approx distance between the "tone ring" and the ABS sensor? I'm using this distance as my reference for how much deeper the hub needs to go into the bearing housing. I'm sure this info is in my repair manual somewhere! Thanks for the info and the compliments. Ali

Glad you liked my shop. The shop is never complete as you know! I recommend getting a press, at least a bench top one if you got room. Doing bushings/bearings is much easier when you're using a press type device. The old bushings and lateral link bolts had to be cut out with a sawsall. They became *one* due to many years of salty roads. I just hope the SVX will be easier since it didn't start out in the salt belt! On two occasions I used two different methods of pushing the axle out: 1- large brass drift and a BFH to hammer it out! This if for both front axles. 2- rented every thing from the local auto parts store and used the tool I mentioned previously. Shoulda seen teh look on the counterperson's face when I told him I wanted everything to do with hub/wheel/suspension work. However, the axle wasn't "frozen" to the splines, so it came out rather easily. If you don't use a brass drift, then there's a chance you'll "mushroom" the head of the axle and then it may not want to come out. Or, worse, it will ruin the splines as it gets pushed out with the hammer. Ali

Are you picking up more parts for the Hubtamer or car parts? I need to add the "hub puller" thing to my tool box. Basically this is used in conjunction with the slide hammer to push the axle out of the hub. However, this tool is used for "gently" with the hubtamer to do the same thing! Basically you slide over the lug bolts and reinstall the lug nuts to secure it. Then you attach the hubtamer tool to this thing and force the axle out toward the inboard of the car. FYI. Ali

Hey guys, I posted some pics of the Hubtamer in action on the SVX board. Hopefully the following link works: http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?alia176|13589 I was surprised to hear that yet another person had the same issue as me regarding the tool! Tomorrow night everything will be done and I can move on to other projects. Cheers, Ali '95 Legacy wagon ps that price is even better than what I paid for it. Nice going!

I talked to OTCTOOLS.COM cust service today and they'll be sending me another p/n 311881. No questions asked! I'm still reeling from it :-p Ali

Yeah, I suspect one part was not tapped well from the manuf. I still got the job done using the supplied non hardened nut but I prefer to have all parts working...specially for the cost of this tool! Sure is a nice tool though. Ali

Hey guys, Those of you with the OTC hubtamer tool p/n 6490, can you help me out? I'm in the process of removing the rear bearing and a little stuck. I'm puzzled as to why the "forcing screw" 503052 isn't going into p/n 311881 easily. Could I have a bad p/n 311881? The threads on both parts look clean and not galled. It almost feel like the thread on p/n 311881 is slightly tapered. I'd say only about 1/4" of the forcing screw goes before it becomes extremely tight. I used the forcing screw to remove the outer hub with ease so I know the screw is in good shape. Thanks for any help. Ali '95 Wagon

I'll go ahead and spray some penetrating oil on it starting tonight. As far as getting to the actual work, I dunno, you might still be ahead. You see, I have a strict rule that I follow "only one car is inoperational at one time" in my house. Currently, the SVX took care of that rule! I started out with the Legacy last Saturday but given the situation and the lack of proper tool, it got pushed back in the queu (?) 'till next month prolly! Party on, Ali

Thanks for your time. I know I sound like a ditz here but this job is really quite easy. Yes, I have the oem repair manual and as always they make you do some crazy shiat just to do a simple job. Actually the whole job is quite simple provided the proper tool is used...isn't this always the case! After my hubtamer arrives, I'll attempt to disconnect the driveshaft at the diff end. If succesful, then I'll proceed with the removal of said bearings and such with the tool. If unsuccesful, then I'll proceed with the removal of the lateral link bolt and try not to ruin the bushing in the process. Then I'll remove the axle. I'm doubtful if the bushing will survive this ordeal! In the mean time, I'll take apart the brand new bearing set and check things out thoroughly. I need to make some time for this project, maybe toward the end of this week. Currently I'm in the middle of replacing all oil seals in front of the SVX engine! Thanks again. Ali

Ok, so if I take the bearing apart, (bearings, sleeve, plastic insert) I assume I can put them back in the sleeve exactly as I bought it? I also assume that the races inside the sleeve will stay put and act as a stop for the bearings and I will slip the plastic insert back in where it belongs.

Alias, Thanks for your reply. It's a shame I need to remove the axle out of the hub, therein lies my problem. I think I'd rather remove it at the diff end since I don't feel like destroying bushings and bolts. I tried the heating thing but the bushing kept wanting to smoke! Bearing lubrication is a confusion issue for me- some say, like Endwrench, don't take apart the bearings and lube, while others say do take apart and lube. Little confused! Even the bearing package say NOT to take apart the bearings and it's appears to have grease from the factory. There's a sign of grease peaking out, not packing wax. If you happen to have a p/n for the OTC for Subaru let me know. Otherwise, I'll buy the Hubtamer tool. Thanks again. Ali

When the Hubtamer is used, do you still have to remove the axle out of the hub or does it stay in? I tried the wheel bearing job tonight but ran into one major problem. I was able to remove the outer hub by using a slide hammer. However, not having a hub tamer, I wanted to remove the knuckle out of the car and stick it in my press. The lateral link bolt (the long one) corroded itself to the two bushings. This made it nearly impossible to turn. At this point I stopped due to the fact that the bushings would be getting destroyed if I kept turning the long bolt. So, now I need to purchase a hubtamer tool. Since I have a SVX and will be doing the same thing in the near future, I might as well bite the bullet. The best price I found $224 Plus S&H. Does this sound good? Thanks. Ali

Alright, pal, you just lead the way and I'll be on stand by Ali

Another option is to take it to a Autozone and have them check the code and reset it for free.

I picked up my bearing and three oil seals yesterday. I see what your confusion with regards to the repacking issue. Mine came with grease and it's visible. It smells like grease too. I can't say I look forward to taking the whole set apart and regreasing everthing. Howevr, if it's required, I'll be happty to do so. The parts guy said it's indeed a sealed bearing or at least pre-greased. Let me know what you end up doing! Ali

Yeah, let me just get my microcontoller and the assembler out of the closet and I'll get right on it I just gotta decide if I want a Motorola or an Intel microcontroller! Like I can actually remember how to program all that stuff from way back when! But the ECU theory does make sense. Maybe I'm frying something and it just took a while to occur on this go around. I'll check for obvious signs. Thanks for the inputs guys. Ali :headbang: