alia176

One of the easiest leak fix you can do is to simply to replace the valve cover gaskets and rubber washers for the bolts. After doing this, see how the oil leak is and do try to find the source. It'd help to degrease the engine completely then look for the source. In my case, I ended up replacing all O rings and seals up front, timing belt, Tstat and H20 pump. This is a classic case of "while you're in there..."! I uploaded a pic of the front of the engine exposed to illusrtate my point. Please note that when you're in this deep, replace everything you can! The T belt was removed after being marked and all pulleys lined up. You'll note that the front radiator was removed for easy access to all of this area. The T stat and h20 pump were accessed from under the engine. This picture is in the photo gallery under my name. Good luck. Ali '95 wagon (sold!) '92 SVX

I no longer rebuilt calipers. My local supplier can get me rebuilt calipers with new pads in them for a decent price. I'm happy with the results. YMMV. Ali

My 92 svx is a DD and so far (knock on wood) no issues. She's got 103k miles and I've owner her since '99. maintenance items: tires, brake rotors/pads, an alternator, rear pass wheel bearing, coolant temp sensor, rear trunk lid lifting struts, driver side visor, rebuilt rack&pinion, valve cover gaskets, exhaust donut gaskets and the usual hoses...I think that's about it. Things to be done: possibly driver rear wheel bearings change the timing belt (40k overdue) change the water and oil pump along with Tstat and the usual gaskets and seals (while doing the timing belt) fix the automatic belt on the drive side. Need to replace a simple micro switch...too lazy! I'm not a speed racer but do like to go fast on open curvy roads. I do like this car very much and has been an excellent car for me. Even with street tires, she goes like hell through snow and ice. Hope this helps. Ali '92 SVX LsL

How about the input sensors like crank shaft and possibly the cam shaft sensors? Also, there's a relay under the dash, on the driver side somewhere that contributes to this type of error, particularly #3 misfire. This relay needs to be replaced as the contacts wear out. Do a search on #3 Cyl misfire or P0303 and eventually you'll come up with this thread. Ah, found the thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20291&highlight=sea%233 but it talks about stalling due to this error. May help you out! Good luck. Ali

Excellent, thanks for the tip. Does anyone have the p/n for this little baby? Ali

Finally a real viable solution. So far, nothing else that other's have suggested sounded good to me. I'm betting that the relay is the culprit due to the fact that my wife tells me that she smells a "burning" smell of some sort during the stalling. I'll be doing the same thing to mine once I get her dug out of the snow! She's for sale so I haven't been driving her at all. Thanks dudes. Ali '95 Legacy wagon

Mark, I just remembered as to why your hub isn't coming out, are you sure you removed the C clip that's just inside the front lip of the housing? I know this is a dumb question but I thought I'd ask anyway! This clip will make the removal of the hub, even with hubtamer tool, next to impossible. On the matter of fabbing up a C clamp thing, this is more than just a large C, it also has another piece that has to come off at a perpendicular. This is the piece that the forcing screw levered against and receives all sorts of force. If you need specific pics, let me know. Ali

Sorry to hear about the frustrations...if I recall, I didn't have the easiest of luck using the hubtamer tool to push the hub out. You know, that huge C clamp looking thing just doesn't fit well over all of the rear parking brake crap. It always ended up being a little skewed anyway and I spent just too much time fiddling with its position. You said, you pulled the link bolt out. I hope you put all of the suspension parts back in while you're slidehammering away. Otherwise, there's no resistance being put on the knuckle while you're slamming away as the whole thing will just sway as you're slamming! I also rented a rather large slidehammer to do this job, perhaps it was a 5 or a 10 lb slidehammer? Let's see, the axle nut is out and you're pulling on the wheel lugs....sounds logical to me. That biatch should come out! Yeah, try some more heat while, I mean red glow. Perhaps there's some sort of factory loctite that's bonded or you got corrosion in there. Wish I could be of more help! Ali

Mark, No problem. I posted some pics in my Personal Locker in the SVX page for your enjoyment: http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?alia176|13589 Not sure if you have to be a member in order to view these pics though! For part #s, I'm afraid I don't have anything handy. Perhaps, there's a website that may spell these #s out? I usually go to www.subaruparts.com for my SVX parts. Here's the page where I ordered the parts for my SVX (same wheel bearing job!) http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?model=2&year=1992&style=4WD&body=&scn=2&category=201-A2. I recommend using Subaru parts or Liberty Subaru (out of NJ) for the best prices. My local stealership has a serious markup on parts prices. I didn't use a ball joint press out tool to push the lateral link bolt out...I cut it out! My logic is that if it takes that much effort to free a rusted bolt, then it's not worth re-using it! Besides, I don't think a puller would've worked here due to the amount of corrosion/adhesion and the lack of enough surface area to work with. I think I tried using my Pitman arm puller to no avail. New hardware has plenty of antiseize on it to make it easier for the next time. Frag, I have a 20 ton press and I think your 12ton should be enough. I don't know what kind of a force is being applied by using the "forcing screw" from the hubtamer tool. Generally, I do all of my other wheel bearing job with the 20T press w/o any issues. The forcing scew is the super long/beefy looking bolt that you see in the HFreight pic! Be sure to spray your favorite penetration fluid on a daily basis on the offending parts before starting the actual work. Sometimes, sacrificing a goat might help to appease the corrosion gods! Pneumatic tool will be your very best friend for this job. If you can't afford a decent quality unit then borrow one. This is a classic case where an Impact with 600 ft-lb (or more) of reversing torque is necessary to break these hardware loose. Also, use a torque wrench on tighteting everything to spec. Otherwise, the lateral arm or the knuckle may deflect. I'm sure there're more but can't remember right now! Later, Ali ps separate the wheel bearings upon receipt and clean/repack with fresh wheel bearing grease. Trust me, that stuff looks like grease that the bearing come with but it ain't. Just apply some heat and watch it melt away like wax.

Mark, The Harbor Freight front end tool looks like it should work. I have a Hub Tamer tool and probably didn't need it if I had done a search and found the HFreight one! You'll also need to purchase one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5223. The slidehammer will be used to remove the current hub out of the car. I think that both of these tools are worth the investment since we have an AWD vehicle! Removing the hub from the vehicle wiill work also. The problem is the amount of corrosion on the hardware and the subsequent alignment afterwards. Also, I'd have a hard time placing the knuckle in my press since it's an irregular shape. But anything is possible! If you have any corrosion on your vehicle, then plan on ordering two lateral link busings, one long bolt, one nut. A new axle nut should be used. I had to sawsall my lateral link bolt due to the Midwest salt belt corrosion! Even if you manage to remove the lateral link nut, by rotating the lateral link bolt, there's a chance that your bushings will get torn in the process. The sleeves that are inside the bushings try to become "one" with the lateral link bolt! PB Blaster (or similar) will be your best friend! Note: the bearings and hubs will be extricated toward the outside of the vehicle. Another words, as your facing the hub assembly, everything gets pulled out toward you for removal. Hope I didn't confuse you...too much! Ali '95 Legacy

Just wanted to see what the market bears for my wife's car....Let me know the range of what I should be asking for it! Pls don't tell me about KBB and other pricing sites. I'm asking for market value! Thanks. Ali Chicagoland area, 60440 '95 Wagon 2.2L, AWD -Taupe color -AT, PS, PW, PB, A/C, AM/FM/CD/CASS -130k (approx) -Has a rear window spoiler. -k&N air filter cleaner -Cloth seats in decent condition. Wife put covers on front seats. Things done recently: -brakes front/rear -rear pass wheel bearing -all front engine oil seal replacement. New water pump/T-stat/T belt -non-smoker, everything is functional -New ignition coil, tuned up. -Have all receipts of parts purchased. -Lifetime alignment purchased so she gets aligned frequently. -Battery replaced two years ago (I'll have to check receipts) -Tires " " " " " Problems: -Check Engine lights comes on intermittently. OBD-II code P0402 "Catalyst below threshold". Engine hesitates intermittently. Don't know what's causing this. -Needs new suspension struts in rear. -Hood has a deep scratch/gouge -fuel gauge is not accurate. I guess this is typical! Car runs strong and not a smoker. Never overheated. Garaged throughout the winter season. Selling because wife wanted a SUV.

If yours has higher mileage than chances are that your rear main seal (crankshaft) is leaking. Technically, there shouldn't be any oil between the tranny and the engine. Just live with it! Ali '95 Legacy wagon(for sale)

Well, my wife's '95 is still stalling after a long hiatus! Same as before; shut off, wait for 20 secs, and restart. We're planning on replacing this car before the end of this year.

Markus, Thanks for the info. Your info makes sense in that my fuel filter is on the driver side, in the engine bay. I may do the fuel press test as well and prolly will find out that it's fine. Even if the fuel press was the problem, I don't expect my wife to jump out of the car when this problem is happening in the middle of the hwy and pop the hood to check out stuff! So, I'll just throw yet another part at this problem. Perhaps the crankshaft angle sensor is the culprit..who knows! Thanks again, Ali

Cougar, Yes, you're correct - 2.2L engine. The crankshaft angle sensor does sound viable. I'll look through my receipts to see if I replaced it during the timing belt and oil seal project. Thought I replaced some sort of a sensor but can't remember. I'll look around for the best price for the cca sensor. Does anyone know where the fuel enters the fuel rail? Is it on the pass side of the engine? I couldn't tell from looking at the engine bay. If it enters on the pass side, could cyl #3 be experiencing a lean condition before any other cylinders? This does sound like a long shot to me too! Thanks, Ali

Markus, Congratulations Ali

Glen, The plug wires, swapped plug wires, plugs, coil pack, knock sensor, timing belt, used ECU, - didn't solve my unpredictable #1 or #3 cyl misfire codes or my intermittent stall issue. Vehicle throws the code and stalls during: winter, summer, hot/cold engine, hwy (mostly) and some slower driving. Shut the car off, wait half a minute, then start back up and it behaves like nothing ever happened! That's why I'm leaning toward an elect issue. Here's my reason for suspecting the fuel pump or maybe the regulator: The pump has 130k miles on it and quite possibly it's failing when it gets very hot due to long running? I don't really know, just a shot in the dark. I've thought about installing a fuel press gauge and hopefully it'll tell me something. But I'm thinking that the gauge would be helpful when the engine begins to stall. However, my wife is very busy at that time trying not to get killed by getting rear ended by a truck! Please, keep the ideas coming. Ali '95 Legacy wagon

Let us know of your outcome with the new injector. In my case, I'm sort of wondering if a tired fuel pump could be the culprit of the famous #1 and #3 cyl misfire. I may just throw one more part at this SOB before selling it! My frustration is at an all time high with this car. Ali

Please email me so that I can reply with a bunch of pics of this project. Ali alia176atyahoo

I vote for using the cold chiesel and a BFH! The threads could be cross threaded and/or perhaps Loctited? In any case, if you take it to someone, then once the nut is off, it'll prolly ruin the threads. After that, your car won't be driveable! So, try to do this at home and it's a great learning experience for you. Once you get the nut off, you can bet that your splines of the axles and the hub are fused together. I used a huge brass hammer to pound the axle through the hub. This is after the lower arm was disconnected from the chassis and the whole strut assembly was dangling freely. However, the better way is to use a Hubtamer type of tool to gently force the axle through the splines. Don't forget to apply antiseize liberally to everything before reassembly. Lots of great ideas were already mentioned. Just be safe and use safety glasses, gloves and common sense! Frustrations can lead to hurt body parts! Hope this helps some. Good luck Ali Chicagoland area

I checked the injector resistance last night. Can someone tell me what's the spec? I can't seem to find them in my downloaded manual from Subaru #1 11.6 ohm #2 11.4 #3 11.4 #4 11.4 Markus, these #s are different from yours. Also, I noticed lots of corrosion in the engine bay (which is why I can't remove the injector caps). Of particular concern is the Igniter. I wonder if it'd help to run a separate ground wire from the chassis to the battery NEG term? Ali '95 Legacy wagon

I haven't had any luck with a select monitor yet and I don't really expect to I guess. I may just end up buying one if I something comes up on Ebay. Good idea on acquiring spare injectors. If you have access to a diesel place, perhaps you can remove them and have them cleaned. You'll prolly need to buy the O rings along the way I imagine. Tomorrow night, I'll check the resistance of each injector and will try to remove the injector cap. Hopefully the PB blaster has done its job by now on the two screws per injector. Right now, my immediate issue is her front brakes. I replaced the pads and rotors and now she's squealing like a stuck pig :-\ I'll see if I can purchase some anti squeal shims for the pads tonight. This car is really starting to piss me off. Ali

Markus, You sure are doing great diagnosing! Your idea of cycling the injector sounds good. I don't think you'll damage the injector as long as the duty cycle is not long. However, if you have a way to shoot some liquid through there then it'd nice to see the spray pattern. However, that'd require some serious plumbing. Report back with your findings! Ali

I tried spraying carb cleaner around the engine bay while the engine was idling. Didn't find any apparent leak and vacuum gauge showed proper readings. I tried removing injector #1 but the two phillips are corroded and refuses to budge. So I'm letting the soak with PB Blaster for a couple of days. Not trying to discourage you....but I ran a few injector cleaners through her tank to no avail. Hopefully, you'll have better luck than me. Ali

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