LostWater

Did some research and find the part number for the subaru cooler. I then found the Subaru specific cooler instructions from Subaru I am attching them to this post. No fan is needed. I will try and go with a generic aftermarket one. Here is the Link attaching didn't seem to work. http://techinfo.subaru.com/downloads/D551SXA000139155.pdf?doc_id=139155 Mark 06 Tribeca 7 Passenger 69 Subaru 360 Sambar Van x2 78 Westfalia, EA-81 engine, EA-82 manifold, Weber, Auto 78 FJ40

I just installed a hitch to our Tribeca. I would like to install a transmission cooler to increase the towing capacity. Has anybody ever installed one and how diffiucult was it? Will a universal cooler fit? Where are the bosses on the transmission for the cooler lines? Does it need its own fan? Thanks, Mark 06 Tribeca 7 Passenger 69 Subaru 360 Sambar Van x2 78 Westfalia, EA-81 engine, EA-82 manifold, Weber, Auto 78 FJ40

Hello all, been a long time since I posted. I am finally getting around to the finishing details on my EA-81 (w/EA-82 intake) swap into my 78 Westfalia Campervan and I am using a Weber 32/36. My question is, what PSI fuel pump should I use (w/ a pressure regulator)? There are two types, 2-3.5 PSI and 4-7 PSI. What do you guys and gals use? Thanks! Mark

I brought the battery home, tried to charge it, no good. Went to advance bought a new one, problems have disappeared. Thanks for the suggestions. Mark

Hello all, Yes, I am the master of descriptive subjects. Here is what I am looking for; I am planning on putting an EA-81 engine with weber carb and EA-82 manifold into a 79 automatic VW Westfalia that I just picked up. The car the EA-81 came out of was a stick BRAT. I know that some cars have differences in the ignition timing and carb jettings between auto and stick models. Are the EA-81 engines any different between the auto and stick models. Any advice would be appreciated. Mark

Both Northern and Harbor freight sell a 12 ton bearing press for under $100. You just need a good air compressor to get the bolts out of your hub. Then take your hub, put it on the press, push the old bearings out, new bearings in, set the seals, reinstall. A not so good mechanic like me can do it in under 4 hrs, both sides. I did it last year. My press is great and has found other uses since then. Buy a press, don't get screwed, do it yourself! Mark

Hey all, My wife emailed today stating that the green 96 Outback got to Target just fine, but, after shopping, she went to drive back to work, the locks wouldn't stay locked and the there was as she described a "grrrr" noise from behind the glove box when she tried to lock it. I haven't gotten there, so I haven't had a chance to diagnose it. I am looking for suggestions.... should I attempt to jump it? Should I just pull the battery and take it home, charge it and install it tomorrow morning? If I can get it going, then I could take it to advance and have them test the alternator to determine if the alternator or battery is fried. Any Ideas? Thanks, Mark

I am wanting a lift kit for my newly purchased 96 Outback Wagon. I hope the price will be good!! Mark

Dear Pinny, My dad's family comes from East Aurora, Gowanda, Hamburg, North Tonawonda, etc.. My Granddad is the VA hospital at Batavia. I know your area well. I have driven my subarus up there; they do a great job on keeping the snow and ice off of the roads, but your are seeing the results of that. I bought a 97 OBW from Ebay, flew to Ct to get it. I had to replace the rear wheel bearings one one side, and both rear struts, did all work myself. 125k on the clock when I bought it. 1 year later and 20 k more miles and I am still pleased with the $3800 that I paid for it. Last month, I bought a 96 OBW from New Jersey, on ebay, drove up with the Titan and my trailer to get it. $1500. Needs a catalytic converter, has a few dings on the bumpers, nothing real bad. Both OBW's had rust underneath on the components but the bodies are in great shape. Silly stuff like the wagon handle and lift gate struts are the things that rust bad. The strut caps will rust also. My advice, bypass that rusty OBW. Too expensive. Keep your eyes out for another one. Piston slap noise on these are normal, the smell of antifreeze is a bad sign. Regrads, Mark

Look about halfway down this page. The fuel caps says "Subaru". http://www.dieselguard.com/

Does anybody know the SOA part number for this switch? Thanks, Mark

What size tires do you have on that outback in your link picture? Those are stock outback rims, right? Was there any trimming involved there? Thanks, Mark

Got a lift for an outback yet?

Update, just found out it is called the "park position switch" thanks to that link that nipster provided! Mark

I just bought this outback http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4576116736&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT On ebay. It is a great deal with only a few minor problems. It drives great too! One problem is that sometimes I have to put in park, take it out of park, put in park again to hear the ""click" of the little electric switch that lets me take the ignition key out. Half of the time the first time I put it on park, the key won't come out. Anyone replaced that switch before and where is it at? I believe it is under the AT gear lever cover. The outback is a 96 with AT and 2.5. It is a nice addition to my 97. Thanks for any and all help! Mark