jimkup

My 5 speed M/T is on it's last leg (fits my EA82 '88 Loyale Wagon.), really growling when I let off the gas, ect, ect,...over 250K miles on it. I may have located a 2WD Manual Transaxle from an EA81 and was wondering if it is a direct bolt up replacement or if I needed any mods for it to fit. Also, is the EA81 Tranny a 4 or 5 speed? Thanks!

ok, I think I found it. I replaced the A/C clutch relay & it seemed to help...for only a short while. Thanks to previous posts & alot of searching, I found someone that mentioned a small "black box" about 1" wide and about 3" long, just to the right of the relay, above the Evap. core box. I believe it is a temperature switch. It has two white wires on one end, that go into the evap. core box. The other end has a four wire connector on it, but only three terminals actually have a connection. If you disconnect the connector and pull on the "black box", it will silde out a little until the white wires get tight. At this point, I cut the white wires really close to the "black box". I cut and pried until I got the "black box" open, but it is hermetically sealed inside and not serviceable. So, I went to the local jy and found a junker with that switch, a pressure switch, and another device that mounts to the front of the Evap. core box. I pulled all three and the jy charged me $25, their minimum charge for parts. Went home, soldered the new "black box" to the white wires & so far it has been working great. Blows about 65 degree air...steady, & goes slightly lower on Max. I will give it a few days & if still ok, I'm gonna shoot a little more freon to it. Anyway, that seemed to fix my clicking and sometimes like a missfire. Hope this helps a few of you USMB'ers. The previous posts helped pinpoint this for me and I must say thanks! Took me a while to get it done, but now I'm chillin here in Austin and believe me it does get really hot here.

Well, I did the conversion myself & took it to my local certified sub mechanic for evacuation & charging last year. Did not have the chattering at all afterwards & then this year it was blowing hot so I charged it myself. As far as pressures...I really don't remember what they were....seemed like the low side was around 30 psi & I think the hi side was around 270 psi....but I'm not 100% sure that is correct. Last night I was gonna check the pressures, but I could not get the Hi side connector to seat on the service valve. Really pisses me off too...especially since I had it on b4. Anyway, got the low side connected & pressure was only about 10 psi. So, I'm pulling up the white flag & taking it to my Mechanic so he can get it right. Thanks for the help & I will post the fix later!

ok, thanks...that's exactly what I was looking for!

Howdy folks, Last year I converted my A/C system from R-12 to R134. The conversion went well & the system worked good till this summer. Initially, it blew hot air so I topped it off. All went well & with my thermometer in the vent...cruising down the highway, sometimes the temp gets as low as 43 degrees. Lately, I started noticing a "clicking" noise behind the Glove box & sometimes when this is happening, it feels like my engine is misfiring. When the "clicking" noise is happening, the A/C clutch is turning on & off. It only happens when the A/C is on (obviously) & if it is clicking & I push the Vent button, the chattering & possible misfiring stops. The clicking noise seems to start after I have been cruising down the highway a bit and is intermittent...sometimes it chatters & then it stops for a while & then it'll start again. I called my local Mechanic & he said to check the Valve? Levers under the kick panel to be sure they were closing and opening completely. I pulled off the cover & when I switch from A/C to Vent the valve-levers appear to open & close completely. I do have a set of Guages but I am not sure what the proper pressures would be on a converted system. I am thinking that either I have too little or too much (my guess) R-134, maybe causing the pressure switch to kick off the compressor. So, has anyone experienced this b4 & if so what did ya do to stop it? What should the High side pressure be with the system on and the engine at idle...ballpark? Any info or ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!!!!!!

Howdy folks, A ? regarding A/C conversion from R-12 to R-134a. My system has R-12 & that stuff is next to impossible to get. Has been doing fine till recently when it slowly went from cold air to ...not cold. Has anyone ever topped off their R-12 system w/ R-134 (without total evacuation and re-charge)...& it worked? I know on the can of R-134 it says do not mix w/ R-12....but??? Thanks!

Wow, thanks for all the advise!!! I was able to get it done without any major hitches. My bad on the clutch Disc Spinning. Was the inner portion of the pilot tool! It was my first....so it'll always be special....one I'll remember. But not so bad with great advise from the great folks here on the USMB, the FSM, & the will.... Thanks Again!!!

My "88 DL Wagon (now has 250K+ miles & going strong) ran warm especially with A/C on & stop & go traffic. It really gets hot here in Texas. I did everything ...water pump, thermostat, system flush...but the thing that worked was installing a double core radiator on place of the factory single core. It was not an exact bolt in replacement, but with minimal engineering, it did the trick. Bought the thing on-line, but I don't recall who from. Do some searches for radiators & you'll find one.

ok, thanks! Now, after I install the new Pressue Plate and Disc Assy. to the Flywheel, and tighten the bolts, should I be able to turn the Clutch Disc Assy with the Pilot Tool? I am able to turn it fairly easily & it does not seem to flop around or be too loose. So does that sound about right? This is my first clutch job so....??? Thanks again for any guidance or advise!!

I am in the middle of replacing my Clutch. My Tranny has just over 250K miles and shifts fine, but does "growl" a bit. So, I am driving down the road the other day and she just stops pulling, like the clutch is pushed in. I coast to a stop, and am able to put it in gear without pushing in the clutch (no grinding either), but she doesn't move, in any gear. So, I towed her home and jacked her up. As I was checking things out, I spin say the Drivers side tire, but the passengers side does not spin. Is this situation normal? Ok, so I drop the Tranny and find that the actual asbestos disc has broken loose from the rest of the splined hub and spring (Clutch Disc) assy. I purchased a new Clutch Kit from the local parts house & upon inspection notice a couple of small differences in the Clutch disc Assy. One difference is that the splined hub is about 1" shorter then the old one. The other dif is the new assy only has 4 springs while the old one had 6 springs. It appears that all other dimensions are identical or as specified in my FSM. Would either of these cause the Clutch not to engage/disengage properly? I called the parts house & had them double check the part & they assure me that it is the right kit and those differences are not critical. They are not specified in my FSM either. Also, after I got the Tranny on the ground I have noticed a couple of items I am unsure of. If I spin the Splined shaft, both drive axles spin in opposite directions. But when I spin, say the drivers side axle, the passengers side spins in the opposite direction, but the splined shaft does not spin. Also, the splined shaft has a considerable amount of "end play". I know that when the Tranny is mounted to the engine, the splined shaft goes thru the pilot bearing so maybe this is not an issue, but this is my first Clutch job and I do not want to have to do it twice! I have a digital cam and could take a couple of pics if it would help. Also, I could call you for advise if that would be better. Any advise on this would be more than helpful and many thanks in advance for any guidance regarding this!

I agree blitz! I put a pair of Low Beam Sealed Lamps in my '88 & they both failed in less than a year. I talked with Sylvania & they said that was normal? Well, at $20 per lamp, I will stick with the regular old halogens, but the SilverStars do make a noticeable difference.

My '88 SPFI had the same issues. Had a real bad tick from passenger side head for a long time. Started stumbling real bad from idle when I dumped it or even when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Compression check showed #1 cylinder running at 100 psi & should be about 157. All others were ok. Pulled passenger side head, took to shop for a resurface & valve job. Machinist found cracks between valves went way down into vale ports. Replaced head & reinstalled. compression test showed about 157psi on all afterwards. Still had bad stumbling & bucking at low rpm (especially under load). Started looking at coil I found that my wires under the coil that go to the power transistor were really corroded especially at the coil. Removed them & cleaned them up with a wire brush at the ring connectors. Reseated all other connections in that area & seemed to have solved my problem. Just my $.02 & didn't cost a thing, except for the head job that needed to be done anyway. Now have more power & better mpg than in last 5+ years.

I just did a HG & Valve job rebuild on my '88. Has 240K on it & now has more power & better mileage than it has in many years. I only did passenger side though & did not have a coolant leak. Mine had low compression on one cylinder & had a bad tick from that side of the engine too. If you don't have any other issues with it & it did not overheat &/or crack the block, it's prolly worth it to do it.

My '88 SPFI had similar issues. I removed the coil and cleaned all ring connectors with a wire brush & checked all the associated wires for integrity. If you do that you may want to write down which wire(s) go to which terminals on the coil 'cuz if you reconnect them wrong, you are gonna fry something. Afterwards, the sputtering was gone. just my $.02.

My '88 SPFI had similar issues. I removed the coil and cleaned all ring connectors with a wire brush & checked all the associated wires for integrity. If you do that you may want to write down which wire(s) go to which terminals on the coil 'cuz if you reconnect them wrong, you are gonna fry something. Afterwards, the sputtering was gone. just my $.02.

No, haven't pulled any codes. Every now & then the "check engine"? light comes on when I start the engine, but always goes off after a minute or two of driving. I did notice the other day after I replaced the head & thought I had all connectors hooked back up & fired her off, that the TPS Connector was not connected. I had forgotten to hook it back up, but it still started & sounded ok. When I noticed the connector was not connected, the check engine light was on & after I turned it off & reconnected the TPS Connector, the check engine light went out.

Ok, got the head back & installed ok. Afterwards, I had a slight amount of additional power, but still the bogging down or missing while accelerating, especially under a load. Waited til it got real dark & checked under the hood for sparking. None found. Decided to install new disty cap & rotor. As I was pulling wires & generally looking around the area I noticed the coil wire at the coil had some fluid in it. Upon further inspection, found that the Accel SuperStock Oil filled Coil I installed about a year ago had been leaking. When I started looking really close, I found oiley residue all around the coil & mounting area. The coil mounts horizontally but there was no crack or anything obvious that would cause the leakage. I had oil all on the power transistor and electrical connectors and wires in that area. I took everything apart & cleaned & dried & cleaned corrosion from ring connectors (that go to coil) with wire brush and installed the original coil back on the car. Afterwards, no missing, bucking, or bogging down at all. So, at least for now, she is purring like a lil' kitty & has noticeably more power! Moral(s) of the story: 1) don't waste your money on the oil filled coil. 2) keep wires and connectors for the igintion system clean & dry.

ok all here is the latest update for my issue. Took the passenger side head to the head Shop for rebuild. After they bead blasted the thing & removed the valves they found not only the typical surface cracks between the valves but the crack between the valves on the #1 cylinder went way down inside the ports & it was obvious that I was loosing compression due to the carbon & soot around the cracked area. Also, the valve seals on the two valves had come out of the seats and were moving up & down with the valves. Result - Head Trash! Luckily, sometime back I purchased a used set of heads from a USMB'er & took them over to the shop. They removed the valves & blasted the area between the valves & even though they were cracked, it was not near as bad as what I had. So, they are in the process of rebuilding the head for me & hopefully I will get it back & installed without any other problems & good compression. BTW - the old head gasket was still in decent shape - no obvious areas of leakage. Was about 10 years old. I will try & post pics of the old cracked head. I am surprised the darn thing didn't break in half 'cuz the crack is so big & deep inside the head.

Yea, obviously I will install a new head gasket upon reassembly, but are you thinking that maybe the Gasket had some compression blowby?

My EA82, SPFI, MT, having problems when just starting to accelerate. She kinda misses unless I rev her up a bit before releasing the clutch. She seems to idle ok & once she gets up to speed she seems to run fine. Also, my mpg is better lately than it has been in years, about 30 mpg. I have changed all the usual stuff, disty cap & rotor,NGK Plugs, fuel & air filter, has 8mm solid core wires & a high performance Accel coil. Has been gradually getting worse so I bought a compression tester & all cylinders were right at 157psi except #1 which was at 100psi. That side of the engine (passenger side) also has a pretty severe tick & some time back I replaced two lifters @ the #3 cylinder. So my question is: Would this problem be caused by a problem with the cylinder head...ie valves, springs, or guides? While i had the compression tester hooked up I let it sit for a while & pressure stayed at 100 psi. Also, would a rework of the head (valve job, new guides, & resurface) resovle the low compression issue or could it possibly be deeper inside the block, like maybe rings? Engine doesn't hardly smoke & uses very little oil between changes. Any other items or ideas I should try or check while the cylinder head is off? Thanks in advance for any input or advice!

I recently purchased a '92 Legacy Wagon. Among some other minor problems, the hood latch does not latch the Hood completely closed. I think if I could raise the Latch slightly, it would work properly. The Hood latch has three blots that secure it to the frame & I can get to two of them ok, but there is a third one at the bottom of the latch that I cannot reach. It appears that if I could remove the Front Grill, I would have easy access to the latch bolt. The Grill has four clips on the top that I can get un-clipped, but the bottom of the grill won't release from its mounts. I do not have much body work experience but usually can figure out most things without too much trouble.:-\ I am afraid if I pry on the Grill too much it will break. I am also considering removing the Front Bumper Cover that may allow for limited access. Any of you Gurus out there have a helpful hint?? Thanks!

I have heard of the axle nut slipping a thread on the half shaft. Try tightening to about 150 - 170 & then drive as usual for at least a couple of weeks. Check torque afterwards. If it is really loose, it is possible that the nut has slipped a thread. This is especially true of Re-manufactured shafts 'cuz they sometimes turn down the metal due to mushrooming or other reasons. Only recourse for this is to buy new or try another rebuilt, but no guarantee about the rebuilts. just my $.02

My Subie's temp guage needle is usually at about 1/2 way up the guage. With the onset of summer & hotter temps, when I run the A/C, the needle has been reaching about 1/4" below the top of the white line of the guage, just before it goes into the red. Before killing the ignition this afternoon, I was shutting down some electrical accessories & I noticed that when I turned off the A/C fan, the needle dropped very slightly. I usually run with the headlights so I flipped them off & noticed the needle instantly dropped slightly again. When I turn them back on, the needle instantly jumps up slightly again. I can't believe that the electrical accessories have an instantaneous affect like this on the temp so I must have some kind of electrical feedback or something. Has anyone heard of this or noticed a similar situation with their Subie? I am worried about the hotter temp & have tried all the tricks to keep the temp down, except the dual core radiator. Prolly my next step. Thanks!

yea, thats the one, drops right in to the stock airbox on the EA82 fuel injected ones.

yea, I forgot to mention that i have the electric fan hardwired to come on when the key is turned on. It is an autozone replacement 'cuz the original crapped out a few years ago. Also, the mechanical fan on mine does not have a complete shroud around it, only like a small "finger guard" that covers the top of the fan. I have not been able to locate a shroud that completely surrounds the fan, so the air from it does not do a very good job of pulling heat from the radiator, especially while I am stopped at a light or something. Without a full shroud the fan just acts like an eggbeater. My FSM shows a complete shroud around the mechanical fan for the A/C model & how mine only has a small finger guard is a mystery to me.