dmanaenk

Doesn't have oil cooler either, that the H6.

Water pump was done with TB job last summer. It was new and oem. Tensioner also was also new and oem, as were all other rollers and pulleys, put on by a decent mechanic that works at subaru dealership. Around 120k miles on the car now. Kinda hard to describe noise more precisely, its not exactly metallic, more like marble rattling/smth getting chopped by a fan I would say. Engine bay looked fine in the light of a flash light, will take a closer look tomorrow. Personally I think its a spun rod, but I didn't have any experience with those and don't know if they can develop that quickly with no prior signs and cause the car not to start.

Er, thanks. Any thoughts on the topic?

While taking my exit from the highway the car quickly developed some crackling/rattling/marbly sound coming from the engine. Related to rmps (or possibly to turbo rmps) and most pronounced while giving it gas. Was able to make it to the second traffic light and died there. With some effort and lots of gas pedal application I was able to start it (was probably a very stupid thing to do) and make it two more blocks (where it died at the stop light again) so that I can park it and walk home. While making these two blocks sounds were very loud, car was very sluggish. Before going home quickly checked oil level (fine, and does not leak in general), transmission oil level (fine) and coolant (fine). No CEL's before today, did not check if there are any now. It did not smoke while making these noises, although I think I did smell a bit of oil, but not too sure. Before this it did not really have any drivability problems, car drove fine until the very moment noises developed. It did have some issue related to water temp sensor (I think - it was not starting on the second try if it did not fully warm up). And I did not drive the car for 2-3 days, and it seemed just a tad slow to start relative to usual when I was driving it to a couple of places today. I need ideas for some simple things to check tomorrow, before calling AAA and having it towed to my mechanic. A little background, car is 5spd 94 legacy turbo, no engine mods, timing belt with all oem pulleys/rollers/tensioner done last summer, tune up (plugs, wires) last spring. The only two simple things I can think of that I can check with a wrench on a car parked on the street - dying alternator with seized bearing, or dead and seized up turbo, and I'm not even sure those can have such simptoms. Any other ideas?

Ok, tried pulling belts while braking and they do lock up, should be enough for daily drving for now. And if I see belts that lock up when pulled on some junkyard legacys - I'll swap mine. And I was thinking about harness/bar for rally/auto-x anyway.

Thanks, I'm gonna get to shoulder belts tomorrow, but how hard is it to get to lap ones? Do I have to pull b-pillar and carpet?

Don't think so. I could easily generate acceleration comparable with hard stop with pulling the belt hard enough.

No, its exactly the opposite in those years - they have to lock you in for airbag to do its job. Way later models (not sure any subarus do it) can adjust airbag power depending on seat belt status.

Yes, that's what I did, and they won't lock. The rears lock when I pull them less than third as fast as the front ones (and that's about the same as I have to pull the belts on my 96 to lock them.

Yeah, that seemed a little odd that all 4 fronts won't lock. But why rear ones do? So is there a way to test if they lock? Like step on the brake while parked and pull?

Just picked up a 94 for some autox/rallycross action, usually troublesome retraction works etc, but when you pull hard on either shoulder or lap belt - they just won't lock in place, so pretty useless and dangerous. True of all front belts. Rear belts are fine and lock like they should. I'm new to 1st gen, so maybe I'm missing smth and there is some electrical issue afterall (belt light is not on)? So the question how hard is it to fix(?)/replace? I can't find any instructions so far, nothing in Haynes too, and I suppose all the 2nd generation FSMs I have are useless. I downloaded 90 FSM supplement but the relevant part is missing there. Seems like shoulder belt should be just an issue of going to the j/y and taking the belt. But I have no idea how to get to lap belt, do I have to pull the carpet etc?

Your injectors were working all the time, and quite a bit of gas probably made its way into oil, thinning it.

Congratulations! Change the oil too.

Tapping that goes away when warmed up - piston slap, its a feature. Tapping sound that does not go away, hm. I'd walk away, although it could be that engine just needs valve adjustment. As for coolant leak, go for a test drive, then park, put some paper towels under the pass side head, and see. Also you might be able to smell it while driving.

Thought I should post back. Got back home on wednesday. I have thought about it (and looked at weather forecast for wed.: -20F ) and took nippers advice - paid to fix it