mikeshoup
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Posts posted by mikeshoup
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With either transmissions, you'll need custom axles. The NA 5spd D/R has different number of splines from the AWD/FT4WD transmissions.
I'd suggest getting an EJ transmission. The Viscous center diff works great.
Fitment might be tough though, and you would need another custom driveshaft.
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After looking at the post, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=537704&postcount=58
Looks like you need three resistors:
0.46 ohms, 50W
0.6 ohms, 22W
1 ohms, 16W
I'm mildly interested in this as my blower only works on speeds 3 and 4. I may just go scavenging a junkyard for a good one.
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Contrary to the way modern ECUs work, the CEL light will only be on in your car when there is a fault.
So, resetting the ECU won't work, because when you start your car again, its going to find the fault again.
Better to read the code the ECU is complaining about.
When the CEL is on, the light on the ECU flashes the codes it is seeing. With that CEL on, pull the cover below the steering column and count how many longs and shorts. Quite simple really. Then you'll know exactly what needs to be replaced.
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I would only worry about running them if it was an interference motor. On those, you don't want to take a chance. My EJ25 will run covers forever.
However, on a non-interference motor like the EJ18, go for it. I've ran a few EA82s without covers, never had problems with rocks, sticks, etc. This is after driving on numerous gravel roads and other "potentially hazardous" areas.
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I'm positive RXs in the US never got factory hood scoops.
XT Turbos on the other hand, did.
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That damn little thing. I don't think it is possible to replace it without pulling the intake manifold.
It'll give you a good chance to replace those intake gaskets at the same time too.
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*cough* RXs don't have hood scoops.
P.S. The grammar and run on sentences between the two of you is hilarious.
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You'll need the TCU (transmission control unit) and the wiring harness from the 85 xt.
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I know exactly how you feel Connie. I've had a car or two that no matter what I do, things don't work.
Keep up the good work Connie, everything will work out fine.
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Update on this: We replaced both front axles tonight with new units. Both the outer boots were torn and the right side joint was dry and getting purple.
Yes. Phil rocks.
And I should have taken a look at the CV joints far sooner.
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So, I noticed a couple days ago that when I accelerate, the steering wheel jerks back and forth. When I let my foot off the gas, the jerking reduces, almost going away completely.
Today driving to work (which is about 40 miles), the jerking started getting really really bad, then it died down.
My thoughts, a CV joint is bad, like really bad. Am I correct on this? what else could it be?
(this is on my 94 Loyale)
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Oh man. Before you get into any of this sort of thing, you need to understand the laws of thermodynamics. Specifically, the first law:
The increase in the internal energy of a system is equal to the amount of energy added by heating the system, minus the amount lost as a result of the work done by the system on its surroundings.This is quite simply stating conservation of energy. Energy Out = Energy In - Losses due to heat
In other words, if you put 5 watts into this HHO gizmo, you'll never get more than 5 watts out of it. And that's at the assumption that this HHO generator is able to run at 100% efficiency.
Take a look at the url: http://aardvark.co.nz/hho_scam.shtml
The guy basically breaks down the calculations as to why an HHO generator will never work.
You would need a 500 amp alternator to even generate enough electricity to run the conversion process and get 40% of the power required to cruise at 65mph. That's not mentioning that those 500 amps have to come from somewhere, either the momentum of the car moving or the engine.
C'mon guys, please don't give into these scams.
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I'll try and make it on by.
I'm moving that weekend, so its gonna be hectic for me.
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ok then.... if you still want to do anything if it's just me and you... :-\
I'll still bring you parts.... you want me to bring you parts;)
Come on over! We'll find something to do if it turns out to just be you and me.
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Its gonna have to be Sunday. Apparently, Saturday is a whole big yard clean up project here or something.
Noon. Those that make it, make it. Those that don't, don't.
If its just gonna be a few people, we don't really need anything Phil.
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SO since Jeff's out... will it just me Mike and I? Mike, is there a place close to buy goods if need be?
Looking to be just you and I...
Yeah, there's a Safeway just a couple blocks south of mi casa.
So, whose all coming?
kingbobdole
yodannyc
ShawnW (maybe?)
Myself of course
But no Yeti or Jeff. Sad day.
Would Sunday work better for you Yeti and Jeff or anyone else? I'm fair game for either day. My work schedule has me only working M-F right now.
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How about Saturday, the 17th, at noon?
And Jeff, yes I'm moving. My lease ends July 1st.
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I ordered mine for my XT from radiatorexpress.com . Though, there prices seem a little high.
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Hey folks,
Its gonna be Sunday, at noon.
We can do it another weekend, just would have to be somewhere else.
We have some hamburgers and hot dogs leftover from a BBQ for the school's band. Any other meat welcome.
I have beer. More beer definitely welcome.
Any other goodies welcome. Fruit, potato/macaroni salad, potato chips, etc. Sitting chairs or something would definitely be needed.
Let me know who all is interested.
Let's make this better than the run up to Idaho Springs that turned out to be Phil, Jeff and myself going to Jack in the Box here in Golden.
Oh yeah, my address: 601 Garden St, Golden, CO 80403
Plans are open to modification. This is just what works best for myself.
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You don't have to remove the timing belts to replace the water pump. I believe you just have tor remove the timing covers. However, since you're in there, probably a good idea to replace it.
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Also, because farmers are switching to corn and have been for years (stupid government subsidies), the price of hops and barley are going up. This increases the cost of everyones favorite drink, BEER!
I noticed yesterday that I paid 30 cents more for my favorite beer: Flying Dog Amber Lager
And it can't be much of the price of petroleum, considering its brewed only a couple hours away from me.
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I think it all starts as 85 octane and the addatives raise the octane, but I can't get an answer on that yet.
In Colorado, they must start lower than 85 as our regular is 85 octane, as the pump sticker says, and it always has been, even before the mandatory 10% ethanol. Colorado's elevation is high enough though we don't need the octane.
And we need to stop blaming American greed, "desk operating do nothings" and all the other common people we blame. The market is what it is. Eventually, we're going to reach a point where the oil supply is so low that it becomes too expensive for us to use as fuel for our cars. Only then will alternative fuel sources become readily available for consumer consumption.
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The conv. with ethanol is my favorite, the 10% ethanol raises the octane, 87 is 89, 89 is 92, and 93 is 95.
Or they just use lower octane gas and add the ethanol. Colorado sells only fuel with 10% ethanol, and we still have octanes of 85, 87 and 91.
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Once you got all the electronics on the EJ, the problem you'd run into is that the EA82 ECU has fuel maps and ignition timings for the EA82. It might run, but it probably wouldn't run well.
IMO, totally not worth it. Probably more work than using an ECU and Wiring Harness from an EJ.
just bought an XT6.....added pics!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Belt squealing... check the crank pulley. Chances are, the outside ring is separating from the inside ring.
Rewiring the fog lights, I know it can be done. I never took the time to figure out how, but my 88 XT6 could have the fogs flipped on or off regardless if the headlights are on. I know this wasn't typical. I think a p/o rewired it.