mikeshoup
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Posts posted by mikeshoup
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Greetings fellow Subaru junkies,
I'm in need of employment right now in the Denver metro area. If anyone has any connections or contact with companies looking for some form of IT technician, or help desk support personnel, let me know.
I have over three years of experience with the Colorado School of Mines working at the help desk, supporting students and faculty as well as a year of experience as a technician at the school repairing lab PCs, A/V equipment, installing software, server racks, etc.
I have a resume I'll provide on request.
Thanks for any heads up you guys can get me.
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Sounds like it cranks but doesn't start?
First thing that came to mind - timing belts. If that's all it is, that's an easy fix.
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try running like a 5w30 in there and a k&N or Fram filter, thay seem to work the best for me i know if i use a napa filter i have a lifter tick and super high oil pressure
You don't want to start an oil filter war with those words. Fram is sworn by many people to be the worst brand of oil filters. My wagon ticked like a mother trucker when I bought it, and it had a Fram filter. I don't know if it was changing the oil filter or the oil, but it stopped ticking. I run cheap Chevron 10W-30 and Nippon Denso filters. Used to run Napa filters until I got a crap load of these Nippons from a shop back near my mom's house.
I'm not going to say Frams are necessarily bad (though I'll never run them after I've seen the insides of one), if they work for you, then they work for you, but don't swear by them.
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I have no connectors on the thermostat neck...this is an MPFI not a SPFI
And that's what Skip was referring to.
On top of the thermostat housing is a little black device. That's the idle control valve. FSM refers to it as the AAV (Auxiliary Air Valve)
Refer to the picture he posted. Its the round plastic looking device in the lower left.
And if you don't have that device, then its not MPFI (since its an XT, it is MPFI), or someone replaced the thermostat housing with one from an SPFI/Carb vehicle, as they don't have the AAV.
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Per that thread that was referenced earlier,
Here's the stock radio wiring diagram: http://mshoup.us/images/radio.jpeg
And here's the color key Subaru uses:
L = Blue
B = Black
Y = Yellow
G = Green
R = Red
W = White
Br = Brown
Lg = Light Green
Gr = Gray
As for what black to use as a ground, just use your multimeter and figure out which one goes to ground. Both of them probably do.
And it looks like you're well on your way to figuring it out. You sure that blue green wire isn't blue yellow? (As that's what the FSM shows)
Pay careful attention to the stock speaker wiring. Its a common ground system.
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Just browse the junkyards here in CO. In fact, I may have an alternator bracket laying around. Plus, I think Shawn mentioned a huge box of brackets to me some time at CCR.
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Where is that spot Shawn? I wonder if my 94 Loyale has it.
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With the inboard A/C compressors, the alternator mount is part of the A/C compressor mount. At least, that's how I remember it being.
You'll want to go to a junkyard and pull the alternator mounting brackets off of a car without A/C.
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There is no VIN # on the motor itself.
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There is a fuse, I don't recall which one. When I purchased my Loyale, same thing, the belts didn't work. Turned out to be a blown fuse. Just pull each fuse out, one by one until you see one blown.
Another good indicator of a blown fuse, you won't get the ding ding ding or the little seat belt wearing guy on the dash.
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I deserve a hot, juicy burger!
P.S. Still have a leaky water pump. I got emo this weekend about fixing it. Can I ride shotgun? Not about to drive it up to Idaho Springs while leaking coolant.
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Is the CC switch even necessary? I don't ever recall the 86-89 SPFIs requiring any sort of neutral switch or what not.
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The low on FT4WD's is only 1.2:1, and the diff is 3.7 unless you do a custom build. That makes them basically the same as the high range on a 3.9 D/R when they are in low. So in a sense they really don't have low at all, but rather a "higher" high.
Hmm. 3.7*1.2 = 4.44 so, low range is still actually lower than the PT boxes. Not to mention the gears on the FT boxes are shorter than the PT boxes. So, it is essentially somewhere between the PT boxes' High and Low range.
Not necessarily good for off road, but great for other things. Turbos aren't necessarily the best for off road anyways.
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Loyale's came in both FWD and 4WD. If your shifter has a button on it for 4WD, then its 4WD. Else, its only FWD.
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Just keep an eye on it. Probably won't get dirty as was mentioned before. Remember those belts are spinning quite fast.
You'll probably just get dirt on the front of the motor. In those cases, just take a hose to it.
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Sucks Russ. At least you're okay and the car is fixable.
+1 on guard rails.
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Well, if we throw 2WD into the mix, then I give up
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this statement and the last few posts of that thread suggest the PT Turbo trans from 85/86 are differnet than the 87+ fulltimes.
Oh, and good catch on the 0.871 It was late last night.
The 85/86s ARE different from 87+ turbos.
And its not a matter of if its FT or PT, its a matter of what year it is, and if its turbo or not.
According to the 86 FSM, Turbos have a 0.78 5th gear w/ 3.7 final drive.
According to the 88 FSM, Turbos have a 0.87 5th gear w/ 3.7 final drive, regardless of FT or PT.
Any other years is your guess. Though, I would suspect 85-86 being same, with 87+ being the same.
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Like GD says, you just have to find the right dealer.
The parts counter at Go Subaru West here has always given me decent deals. I think I pay ~$13 for a t-stat.
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Are your heater controls stuck too?
My Loyale came to me with the heater controls stuck and 4WD not engaging. I simply went into the engine compartment and reconnected a vacuum hose that had come undone and it all magically worked again.
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Need to know which car you're talking about here. I'm assuming your XT6.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918
Contains the listing of codes and a semi-confusing explanation of the connectors. On your XT6, the connectors are in the trunk.
Oh, and how do you like Winnemucca? My room mates are moving there since they've taken jobs at Newmont.
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Welp I figured it out... Hazard clock horn fuse lol.
life is good again
I thought you said no fuses were blown
That freaking fuse, weirds me out why it causes that.
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You're probably overheating it. How's the temperature? It should never get above about 1/3 at normal operating temp, or 3-4 bars on the digidash. If it regularly goes over half on normal drives, they're probably blowing due to overheating.
The head gaskets are really decently strong, as long as they never overheat or you up the boost too much.
If you haven't yet, replace the radiator, thermostat, water pump, etc. Make sure it has a brand new cooling system.
EA82T theoretical power?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
So I'm bored, and going to ask the question that keeps coming into my head:
Why? Why dump the money into an EA82. Don't get me wrong, they're good motors, but just not all that powerful and IMO, not worth dumping the necessary money into. So, why?