civilpd

Anyone have problems getting the lug nuts on aluminum pugs to stay tight? I have gotten new lug nuts that are open ended on the back so they will seat all the way. Is there anything else I should know? Thanks in advance.

Mine sucks for some reason. Less than 20 mpg. OH the shame! Don't look at me. I put in a JDM engine and every time I fill up it seems to get better. I am up to about 270 mile per tank. Next time it will be 275 or 280. Any one know whats up with that? I have tried all the regular stuff: O2 sensor, plugs, wires, driving slow... Fuel injectors? Computer? For you guru's, since early 87's did not have computers, can I unplug mine? 87 GL-10 4WD Turbo Wagon 5 speed, no granny, not AWD, only mod is ground strap mod and that was yesterday, new friggin MAF sensor that cost $300 (unreal) several months ago.

They are for the eject-o seat option.

Yeh, I'm with you. The smack's booster sounds like it would work to me. The only thing is that if you have a computer with a fuel mgmt system, then the computer will try to adjust and compensate therefor negating the brown' gas. There is a guy at the gym who swears his old lincoln battleship gets a lot better mielage, but his newer toyota tundra gets crappy and even worse mileage. The things I have heard seem to all support one another. I did not look at the link, but there is one link that has info on how to build everthing from the browns gas chamber to the fuel mgmt bypass ( which really only tricks your oxygen sensor or something). My question, (the reason I was reading around in the first place, becuase I am going to try to build the thing and already have all the parts) is if on the 1987 GL-10 is it possible to just unplug the computer? The reason I ask this is because from what I understand, the first half of the 1987's did not have computers anyway. So before I order the resistors and transistors and all that crap and go to the trouble of pretty much just following directions by soldering togther this thing, can I simply reach under the seat and give a mighty tug on the harness? Here is the link I have. It is a direct link to a .PDF file that is 340kb so if nothing happens it is because your computer has to first download it. I just saved the thing to my computer but every time I want the address to the link I have to reopen it. http://smacksboosters.110mb.com/Smack.pdf I have also uploaded the document to this forum. I think that it means you can access it straight from here somhow. Anyway, I am going to slap this thing together and see if it works becuase at $3.85 a gallon and gong to $5.00 (I hear), to hell with all you. As for it being a scam, well, I think that both sides of the argument have some truth to them. I think it works but not as well as some claim, and I think that there are those out there selling these systems for $500,$700, and $1500 and are scamming folks with something that should otherwise cost $30 to make. I have read one article that says after much experimentation the best a group was able to do is get an 18% increase in mileage. But hey, do the math, (I haven't) it will decrease what you pay at the pump in the end. Also, you can take this thing off in a second. Some people report they put them on rental cars. In closing, for a kick, check out the garbage cans at the gas station next time you fill up. People are pouring all kinds of crap in there tanks trying to increase mileage.

I need a new fender for my 1987 GL10 Wagon and the choices I keep seeing are the fender with or with out an air dam. I am wondering what a stock fender with an air dam looks like if it exists. Thanks,

Addendum to my last post: Last time I looked at the link it was 17 pages long, this time, the link I gave you above, is 140 or something. Just look at the first pages until shortly after the picture of the motorcycle where it starts other boosters. the rest of that stuff gets more and more technical and is just plain confusing. The simple slap it together to see if it works system is in the first few pages. If you can print or save a copy I suggest you do since I have heard these links go missing from time to time...whoooeeeoooo

Addendum to my last post: Last time I looked at the link it was 17 pages long, this time, the link I gave you above, is 140 or something. Just look at the first pages until shortly after the picture of the motorcycle where it starts other boosters. the rest of that stuff gets more and more technical and is just plain confusing. The simple slap it together to see if it works system is in the first few pages. If you can print or save a copy I suggest you do since I have heard these links go missing from time to time... whoooeeeoooo

I sort of skimmed over the previous entries so I may have missed some verbal jousting. With my hands over my ears chanting some meaningless montra, I am going to build Smack's Booster and put it on my 87 GL-10 Turb Wagon. Hydroxy boosters are selling all over the web for $100 to $1500. http://www.brownsgas.com/brownsgasfuelsaver.html If there is anything to it I am going to find out. http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter10.pdf There is a very small sentence somehwere in the .pdf article link above that is easy to miss but may be the deciding factor. It says that if you have a computer in your vehicle with a fuel management system then the computer will adjust and negate any possible improvment. One guy that says he has a couple of these in his vehicles says that the booster in his old cadillac provides much more improvement in gas mileage than it does in his 2005 Toyota Tundra. That disturbed me until I read the part about computers adjusting the fuel mgmt. Fortunately the article claims that one can trick the computer on your vehicle. I will not go into any detail because if I did it would most likely be wrong since I would not know what I am talking about. The site above provides cook book instructions on how to make one and there is also one somewhere that shows the install with a bracket and stuff. I wanted directions on how to slap one together so I could judge for myself to see if it works; the link above is it. They claim no modification to the vehicle and it can be removed easily enough even for lease cars. ( I do not know about the computer mod I am ignorantly and beligerantly moving forward with my hairbrained scheme.) The R&D guy may be correct to some extent but I suspect he is looking at the subject from an extremely complicated point of view and from a scientific stance is probably correct. But even so, there are some things I must find out for myself and this is one of them. So my point in writing this is for those of you like the orginator of the thread and myelf who are intrigued by the possibility and to provide the above links for you.

Just a quick update... ... the blasted thing is sitting there collecting bird poop. Am going to send to mechanic soon, will let you know what the trouble was. Will check coolant temp sensor though. In the mean time, my Giant VT3 is getting lots of action...anybody got any high end mtn bike parts for sale cheap?

I cleaned the MAF and now it will barely run at all. The measured resistance is out of range for both ground wires. I am going to try yo ground the 2 ground wires directly and see what happens. The trouble flow chart says "check harness", which means SOL.

Thanks, will do.

I put the open air filter on in an effort to solve the problem back in the summer, but will try your advise. Thanks. Also just read another cold hot thread and will try engine temp sensor and TPS.

My EA82T in a GL-10 wagon runs excellent in temperatures less than 40 degrees, but terrible otherwise. In cold weather it runs great but has a high idle and gets pretty close to 20 mpg. The turbo kicks in great, it climbs hills in 3rd (slowly but at least it tries), and drives like a scalded dog. In warm weather, the performance is intermittant with it being more bad than good. It seems that just when the turbo should kick in, it goes sluggish. It acts like it has a govenor to limit speed on every gear. To go faster I have to change gears. It gets 10-13 mpg, idles low, and has a hard time climbing a hill in 1st and 2nd. Downhill it runs pretty good, any kind of load bogs it down. Trouble codes show 2 long flashes and 3 short which I read to be 23 which is MAF. I expected an error code on the iddle ma-jiggy but the comp. just flashed the 2 longs, 3 shorts over and over. Should I clear the codes and go again? I have a K&N style filter which sucks air like a semi tractor trailer(you can hear it). I have checked and rechecked the vac hoses but could have missed something. I even took pics of another EA82's engine compartment. I do not think the waste gate linkage moves freely on the turbo but can not be sure because of lack of a schematic with a neon sign pointing it out. It runs like something is trying very hard to work but is not quite making it. Sometimes I can run it in 2nd or 3rd longer than I should at high RPMs, then after that it runs good until I shut it off and it cools down (this seems to be more the case in cold weather). I have the dealer service manual for the engine and a Haynes book and back during the summer I had the things almost memorized. I finally gave up and just drove it. I read the thread on cleaning the MAF with brake cleaner. How do I do that? Squirt it up the hose? All the contacts are new and shinny looking. I have changed most everthing else. Can not remember if I changed the PCP valve ha-ha. Any advice will be appreciated and tried and I will try to post my findings.

My EA82T in a GL-10 wagon runs excellent in temperatures less than 40 degrees, but terrible otherwise. In cold weather it runs great but has a high idle and gets pretty close to 20 mpg. The turbo kicks in great, it climbs hills in 3rd (slowly but at least it tries), and drives like a scalded dog. In warm weather, the performance is intermittant with it being more bad than good. It seems that just when the turbo should kick in, it goes sluggish. It acts like it has a govenor to limit speed on every gear. To go faster I have to change gears. It gets 10-13 mpg, idles low, and has a hard time climbing a hill in 1st and 2nd. Downhill it runs pretty good, any kind of load bogs it down. Trouble codes show 2 long flashes and 3 short which I read to be 23 which is MAF. I expected an error code on the iddle ma-jiggy but the comp. just flashed the 2 longs, 3 shorts over and over. Should I clear the codes and go again? I have a K&N style filter which sucks air like a semi tractor trailer(you can hear it). I have checked and rechecked the vac hoses but could have missed something. I even took pics of another EA82's engine compartment. I do not think the waste gate linkage moves freely on the turbo but can not be sure because of lack of a schematic with a neon sign pointing it out. It runs like something is trying very hard to work but is not quite making it. Sometimes I can run it in 2nd or 3rd longer than I should at high RPMs, then after that it runs good until I shut it off and it cools down (this seems to be more the case in cold weather). I have the dealer service manual for the engine and a Haynes book and back during the summer I had the things almost memorized. I finally gave up and just drove it. I read the thread on cleaning the MAF with brake cleaner. How do I do that? Squirt it up the hose? All the contacts are new and shinny looking. I have changed most everthing else. Can not remember if I changed the PCP valve ha-ha. Any advice will be appreciated and tried and I will try to post my findings.

Try a 10 or 12 mm wrench on the cable to idle it down and open the air filter so it can get more air.