EastCoastEJ22T

took some measurements this morning the lat links are the same length, and the bolt/bushing hole spacing (the 4 mains that hold the subframe to the body are the same spacing. Looks like it will fit like a glove. I won't get around to swapping it in for 2-3 weeks (wedding,work,travel) but I'll update when i start the ball rolling. Any tips on subframe removal, i got the service manual and it seems pretty straight forward. Seems easier then the heater core i did on the car 2 weeks ago (6 hours out / 4 hours back together) The only thing i wonder is if i'll have to drop the hole drive shaft out? or can i seperate it at the flange closest to the rear diff?

The rear sub frame on my 95 legacy wagon is really ugly, rusted beyond repair with two large holes. I picked up a rear sub frame with lat links and all hardware from a 06 imp wagon for real cheap. the 06 subframe has zero miles car had water damage in transit from fuji, and was parted out after arival here in canada. So the big quetion is will it fit? The person who sold me the part said it would, he is a local suby reb/guru ( mainly WRX/STIrally stuff) I haven't had a chance to get under the car and take any measuements but visually it looks really close. The forward lat links are a u-channel, not a rod, and the muffler hanger is facing in the totally wrong direction( not a big deal). I'm thinking the lat links may not be the right length due to the track width difference of the two cars I'll get under the car and take some measurements tommorow and update this post, i guess i'll find out soon just how lego these subys really are. Any info or comments are welcome.

i just finished changing the heater core in my 96 legacy wagon, the air starts from the passengers side comes out of the blower through the A/C condenser and into a large black plastic box that contains the heater core, there is one cannon plug (brown/9 wire) on the drivers side of the box that controls a actuator that drives small levers in a rotary patern for there corrisponding doors, foot door, vent door, def door. the arms are all linked to one motor, and as certain settings are picked it rotates the arms driving doors open and closed together. I do not think you can mess with the order they operate in. You could however disconect the vent door arm and keep it open all the time, maybe?? If you take a flashlight and basically stuff your head in the footwell by the gas pedal and look up towards the center vents you can see the actuaor and the arms. turn the blower on , and reach around and push the buttons and you can watch the arms /actuator rotate, like a crazy clock. Hope this is some help. Ian

1995 Lego wagon, 2nd owner in the family since new. 2.2/4eat with 289,000km on the clock original HG's. Resealed at 200km (cams, intake, etc.) but left the HG's. Runs smooth as butter, stone axe reliable.

on my legacy, if you remove the center console/armrest there is a shift lock release under a plastic phillips screw at the top of the shifter. remove the plastic plug and push down inside this should release the shifter and allow you to move it to neutral. As far as removing the key switch i'm unsure, on an old yota i had i got lucky it broke off flush, so i put vaseline around the hole, and loctite on the other key part and held it there for 5 min, and slowly removed the key, the vaseline keeps the glue off the sides of the key hole. Best of luck.

FIXED.... left side rear wheel bearing. Didn't have the time to do it myself. 2 hours labour plus $120 canadian for the OEM subaru bearing/seals x 3. The place who did it had a hub tammer and did it on car. Car now runs butter smooth and quiet....very nice. I could not beleive the deafing amount of noise the bearing was making. Thanks for all the input and help. Great site + great people= great technical support .

Ok, so ran some temp tests with a infared digital thermometer today. After running at 110 kmh for 15 minutes all highway i coasted to a stop no breaking and took a reading for the wheel bearing carriers. FL-112 F FR- 110 F RL-108 F RR- 132 F(the worst) Reardiff 118 F This does not seem that bad to me, with the amount of noise coming from the rearend, i figured one bearing would be Blue hot. ANYway i'll try and drop the driveshaft/carrier bearing tonight and see if it has bad play/ temp issues( it's hard to tell on the car because of the rubber bushing it sits in) IF no play is found in the steady bearing, i'll change the RR wheel bearing.

1. I going to change the diff fluid this moring to a synthetic 75W90 and see if that changes anything, it's a cheap and easy test so why not. 2. I'll check the bearing temps Monday morning on the ride to work 30 min all highway, with lots of room to coast to a stop. 3. I'd be willing to strip a donor and swap new bearings into the donor carriers/ then just swap the carriers. I'll have to wait till monday and make some phone calls to see if i can find one with drums. I have a 1992 touring wagon (EJ22T) for parts at my parents farm (4hour drive) but it's got disks and i don't know if the carrier is simmilar in design or not, maybe i'll get the old man to take some pics to give me a better idea. Thanks for the nasoic link pretty informative, i'll update in a bit with any changes. Any one know how much play is allowed in the driveshaft carrier bearing? Changed the fluid, made no difference, i'll check the other ************ later. Thanks for the help so far. Ian

Thanks for the tips. I work as a aircraft mechanic and have access to a full machine shop, We have tooling made to change aileron/elevator bearings the Rod/cup/press type. I think i'll just order a bearing get some dimensions and make up a set up out of 6061 stock. We also have a few presses for building up landing gear/flight control hinge fittings, that are soft jawed and have brass dies, but i'd rather not tear down the whole rear end just to change two wheel bearings. by the way jacked up the rear and checked the drum backing plates there fine, sway bars fine, and the jack points front diff support mounts and tabs are fine. But there is definately drag in the Driver side rear wheel bearing. We use alot of roller bearings on torque tube/ flight surface actuators, and the bearing feels heavy, and nothcy? (hard to explain) is there a procedure in the service manual for changing them on the car, I have a download of the 96 SM, but can't seem to locate it. or do you know what side of the bearing carrier the bearing is pulled/pressed from. (inbord face or outboard face) Trying to type and watch CORR truck racing at the same time is proving to be difficult. any more info/ideas is appreciated.

thanks for the info, I'll check the backing plates when the rain slows a bit(good old Nova Scotia weather). I didn't know they were roller bearings, hopefully thats what it is, cause thats what it sounds and seems like it should be.

Just bought a 1996 2.2/4eat legacy last month and in the last 200km the car has developed a loud roaring noise from the rear end. It sounds like a really bad wheel bearing, but i jacked the front and rear and checked the wheel bearings and they seem fine. The noise comes on at around 60 and gets louder as speed increases up to about 110, when it seems to start to fade again. I removed all the heat shields and checked the u-joints they are fine there is some play in the center/ carrier bearing, but nothing drastic. I tried driving with the 2wd fuse in, no change. I've done the torque bind tests and no problems. It's just making a crazy amount of road noise. Front diff levels are fine, and when i checked the rear diff levels i removed the top fill plug and fluid came out!! I assume the diff was over filled by previous owner/mechanic, drained and refilled but the noise is still there. Any input or info is much appreciated, or if any one knows of a test for the rear diff, other then the torque bind test. Thanks alot. (canadian car 290000km dealer maintained one owner)