Dr Farco

Does anyone know where to locate the "lighting diode" for the head/park light circuit? My lights won't switch on and I think I toasted it. In a 98 O/B Wagon Thanx

Thanx for the info coaster, I guess that rules out the module. I must have damaged the main light switch somehow when I was probing the relay sockets.maybe a short. I'm not getting a ground signal from the switch to pull in the relays. The lights work if I jump a ground to the connecter under the dash but no dash lights come on. Still can't figure out how a short could hurt the switch though. Except for this problem, this was the easiest remote starter install Ive done yet though. All of the necessary ignition, horn and lock wires are right there and easy to splice into. The Subaru light system is another story. DF

Thanx, all, I'll check them all out. I found reference to an illumination control module. What does this thing do? DF

Well, the auto starter she wanted works,as does the locks and the horn beeps but now I have no lights anywhere. All I can do is flash the high beams. The last thing I had to do was get the lights to flash. So as I was probing the headlight relay sockets for voltage, I saw a small arc to one of the terminals. The headlight switch seems like it's dead. It won't trigger any relays. I can hear the relays when I flash the highs however. Any Ideas?? The fuses for the lights next to the relays are good as are all the fuses in the kick panel fuse box. Are there any more fuses or breakers I can check? I saw a diode in the schematic but don't have a clue where it is or what it looks like. Thanx DF

It's really good to see you guys made the count. I'm attending with my other club(Speedsterowners.com) and if reeeally needed I would have signed in my Outback. But the only problem would be driving two cars. Stop by the Speedster area to check out a freshly built Red Speedster with a 2.2 Suby motor shoehorned in it. I know I can't wait to see that. Cheers Dr. F

Regarding Phase one engines, I swore I read that the early ones required premium fuel. Did a search and couldn't find anything. If this is true, when was the change to the lower octane made? Dr. F:confused:

That little knick shouldn't hurt anything. But be sure the bolt looks fresh and a-ok. Mine snapped and trashed my valves. (on my way home after buying car)! DR. F

Mine are the same way! I'd like to know also. Poor castings or just lousy material? They are poor in quality IMO. Dr. F

Rooskie: Find anything about that fire?

Boxers: My cams were the same way. I could turn one by hand and not the other. I could move it with a rag on the end with channel locks. I think it's just the way they are. There's always some coolant left in the block after pulling the motor. Are you using an engine stand? After I put mine on the stand, I rotated the engine on it's side to dump out the remaining oil and coolant before the cleaning began. I've put 1k miles on mine and so far so good. Good Luck. Dr. F

If you aren't in a big hurry and want to save some $$, search Ebay for Silverstars. Just watch the shipping rates. They differ. I got two for a little less than the price of one.

If at all possible I'd send the wife with the car to Firestoned to be fixed. You paid money for the service. A good dose of a woman's scorn will get' em moving on it real fast. My wife would tell 'em to get the book out to do it right if they had to.

Trace: This was posted here in another thread. It's not to hard to replace the lights. I just did mine. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=91

sdderr: I found some info here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8715&highlight=console+lights

This is the site you speak of Hogsubie. http://www.specialtyauto.com

Nomad pretty much covered it. When done installing the new plugs, I squeeze a dab of die-electric grease into each plug wire boot and work it around in there with a small screwdriver. Helps with removing the wires for next time. Dr F

Well, I was roaming around in "searchland" about dashboard lighting and as reported here, all of my 98OB's lights were toast. I replaced the HVAC and hazard lightbulbs. Now I found that the cruise and companion switches are supposed to be backlit also...back for more bulbs. As this thread originated in '01, has anyone noted if the Radio Shack bulbs last longer? Jest wunderin'! Dr F.

I used Scotchbrite pads also with a little bit of carb cleaner. Worked pretty good. Thanks to Skip's webpage(thanx, Skip) and a Haynes manual, I got mine running Sunday before last. If you take your time and follow the book when installing back in the car, you'll have it purring like a kitten like mine. Good Luck. Dr.F:banana:

As it was mentioned above, the earlier H/gaskets must have been inferior. I just had my Phase1 2.5 motor out for a top end rebuild due to a snapped timing belt tensioner mounting bolt. The temp gauge previously moved up and down like a windshield wiper. I looked at the old H/gaskets and didn't find any "breaks" in the metal, but the coating was missing and blotchy around the coolant openings. She's all back together now with the updated Subaru Gaskets and rebuilt heads and purrs like a kitten with a steady mid-range temp. indicated.

Maybe it would be worth it to take a sample of the coolant and get it tested for hydrocarbons or any other stuff that may indicate trouble. A leak down and compression test wouldn't hurt either. My .02

I had rattling shields also. I bought large hose clamps and put 'em around the culprit and tightened it down. Easy cheap fix.

My wish is that she starts and runs after I put the motor back in.

My guess would be the seals in the rack are starting to go. Line pressure may be slipping by them causing the rack to twitch.

While we're talking tires, I have a 98 O/B which is new to me. It of course has AWD. The question is, do I replace all four at once, as in other 4X4's? Or can I replace the two bad tires I have. One has a cut in the sidewall and another just leaks.(picked up a large screw.) They all are in good shape with 3/4 tread.

I've used Mobil one for quite a few years, especially in engines that I've rebuilt. I have a Chevy Sprint 3-banger as a work car. This little devil works hard. When I had to pull the head a second time for a ring failure in one cylinder after 15,000 miles, it looked a clean as the day i put it together. The 98 O/B I just tore apart is filthy with varnish and dirt baked onto every thing. This car was run on dino oil no doubt during it's life. I think the Mobil one runs cleaner and dissipates heat a little better. The only catch with synthetics is that they are prone to find any weak seal and "weep" or leak. The stuff is slippery. When synthetics were first introduced years ago and packaged in cans, it wasn't uncommon to fine oil "weeping" from the can's bottom.