lhrocker
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Everything posted by lhrocker
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I am going to look at a 1999 Outback later this week. The car is said to have 90K and no current overheating/headgasket issues. I figure I will need to put about another 1K into the car for timing belts, brakes, regular maintanence, etc... Is this a pretty good deal? I'm currently looking to replace my 97 Legacy with 210K.
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I'm looking to replace my 1997 Legacy w/210K miles sometime this year. I think I will stay with either the Outback/Legacy or get an Impreza. What are the bad years, enginewise for these cars? I thought I remembered that 1998 to 2002 were the headgasket issue years? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Any other years and problems to avoid? I'm looking for a good daily driver as I put over 30K on the car a year - the only reason I don't want to buy new. Thanx
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My brother in law just bought a 98 Subaru Legacy a few of months ago. Shortly after he got it, he got a CEL. I lent him my code reader and it came up with P0420, which is a Cat issue. He cleared the code and it went away for a month. Last month, the same code came back up. He cleared it again and said that he was going to bring it to the shop. When I spoke to him over the weekend, I asked him if he ever got his car fixed. He said that the hasn't come back yet, so he says that he's going to wait till the code reappears. Is there any harm to that?
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I have a 97 Legacy that has had significant work done on it since I got it, including timing belt, water pump, radiator, brakes, tires, TPS, alternator, knock filter and such. The car has 171k on it and I put 50K over the last 2 years. I need new rear bearings, have a possible leak in the oil seal, plus I've gotten a P0420 codes pop up a couple of times over the past 6 months. Should I keep repairing it, or should I start looking for a new daily driver?
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Over the weekend, the CEL popped up on my 97 Legacy. When I went to get it checked out at the local advanced auto and the code was 325 - Knock sensor. So, I decided to buy an Actron scanner and double check the code, and it was still there and still knock sensor. I then erased the code and it hasn't reappeared yet. How long after resetting the codes should the CEL come back on if the sensor is really faulty? I will keep an eye on it, but should I get ready to replace the sensor anyhow?
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I replaced a bad wheel bearing and did a wheel alignment. My 97 Legacy was averaging 24 mixed and 26 highway. Last month, I started hearing a loud rumbling in the rear that I thought was the muffler/tailpipe. I had the tailpipe replaced a few months ago and thought going thru snow maybe loosened the pipe, which caused the noise. When I bought it into the shop, it ended up being a bad rear wheel bearing. After replacing the bearing, and getting a wheel alignment done, my mileage went up to 28 mixed and 31+ highway. I'm pretty psyched... I guess the friction of the bad bearing and bad alignment was eating up all of my gas.
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I have a 97 Legacy 2.2 sedan that has been slightly overheating for a couple of days. It is usually below the mid point, but it will now sometimes rise to about the 2/3 mark. It normally will go back down below middle after a little while. I changed the thermostat, which is the inexpensive thing to do. What would be the next step, radiator? The car has been running fine since I purchased it, although I put about $1500 worth or necessary work into it (T belt, water pump, seals, breaks, alternator, etc...) Any thoughts? I don't think it's HG, but I want to nip it at the bud. The car currently has 135K on it.
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Well my dealer knows about the alternator as he has sent me a notice to bring my car in to deal have the alternator replaced. I'm not sure if the recall would be in place for a previously replaced alternator. I would think so because the faulty alternator would have needed to be replaced in order to put another one in. I'll just call my dealer and find out.
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The alternator in my 97 Subaru Legacy just went bad (battery and brake lights are on). I found out that there is an alternator recall for my model year from mysubaru.com, so I can possibly get it get it replaced for free. How can I tell an OEM alternator from a replacement? I guess if the previous owner replaced the alternator on his own, then it wouldn't qualify for the recall. Does that make sense?